Another stud/track question

[TonyVT]

So after riding last year without studs... I dont like it.

The year before I had a stud pull part way out and cut my front cooler..stranded me plus I had to be towed by a Switchback!!!!

Lost a whole weekend of riding ...plus several hours of labor and a welding bill.

So last year a threw the stock track back on without studs.

I thought I would buy a new 1.25 ripsaw and stud it with maybe 144.

Im looking for recomendations of how to not have problems again.. Riding here in the east with relativly low snow most of the time we have lots of ice and road side riding and the studs help protect the track too..

Are the ripsaw's pretty tough as far as pulling studs...????

 

[Mongo 1]

If you are not looking for the extreme hole shot, I would go with the ice ripper. Less chance of taking out the heat exchanger while still giving you the safety traction on the trail, and the hookup of the Ripsaw.

 

[LazyBastard]

Riding on a stock track and you're linking problems with lack of studs? Get a REAL TRACK. NO RIPSAW, POS. Get a 9818/9833. Tons of traction, and leave off the studs.

 

[change_up]

I agree with the bastard lol. Comparing the ripsaw to the 9818 is like night and day. Ripsaw is ok on hardpack... that's it. I don't know why all the manufacturers chose to go to the ripsaw pattern, not trying to say it a bad track... it is good, but it's not all it's worked up to be. If you want all the traction you can get, the 9818 (1.25") or the 9830 are the way to go, try them out and if you need more, get the studs... then you have the best of what you're looking for.

 

[Mongo 1]

I am not familiar with the 9818, is that a full block design? If so they do not work well in the low snow icy conditions in the east. The Rip saw however does work extremely well. That being said it does very little on the ice, this is why the Ice ripper is the next step trail control. In powder a full block will provide additional traction.

 

[Swiss Sledder]

Picture of a 9818 track.

 

[Maddog]

The manuf are all going to ripsaws on thier trail type sleds because it is a decent trail track. However for off trail riding there are better tracks. I agree with the NorthEast comments. Ripsaw is a real good track chioce for this area because off trail riding is limited. I have a ripsaw on my Warrior with 168 studs. I have 4000 miles with out issue. I even have the outer cord studded. Track is in great shape also. I have replaced several studs in that time however due to the lack of snow. I am going to give the ski-doo renegade 16" wide track a run this year I think.

 

[rx-1 blue reverse]

Try A Kimpex Shotgun. !.25 with 96 Renforced pre-MOLDED holes. No cut cords, Lighter than a Rip. I can not say enought good things about this track.

 

[MrSled]

I had a 9818 in my extended SX-r and I still prefer the ripsaw...just my 2 cents.

 

[Oak Hill]

I recommend using double backers. This will help from stud pull through.

 

[Len Todd]

I love my Ice Ripper. Several thousand miles and all studs are still in. I can run it loose too. Do not have to live with the added vibrations the other tracks introduce. All this for only one added pound.

 

[turboblow]

So after riding last year without studs... I dont like it.

The year before I had a stud pull part way out and cut my front cooler..stranded me plus I had to be towed by a Switchback!!!!

Lost a whole weekend of riding ...plus several hours of labor and a welding bill.

So last year a threw the stock track back on without studs.

I thought I would buy a new 1.25 ripsaw and stud it with maybe 144.

Im looking for recomendations of how to not have problems again.. Riding here in the east with relativly low snow most of the time we have lots of ice and road side riding and the studs help protect the track too..

Are the ripsaw's pretty tough as far as pulling studs...????

I have a ripsaw on my rx-1 with 96 stud down the middle have plenty of bite and no problems what so ever.love the ripsaw one of the better tracks I,ve ever had