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Another victim of Cat Quality!

vice108 said:
I have the bearing wedge sitting on my work bench next to my brand new sidewinder with zero miles. Would it be relatively safe to just install at 35lbs on a brand new sled or do i need to tear the brake down and test it out like i would on a used sled?
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You absolutely need to tear it down since even brand new 2020 shafts vary in size by a lot.
 

On my brand new shaft I torqued mine to 50 ft/lbs and still had float on my rotor. I'll be checking it shortly to see how she held up over my 3000km season.
 
cannondale27 said:
You absolutely need to tear it down since even brand new 2020 shafts vary in size by a lot.
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Man - I've never spent so much time working on a sled I haven't even ridden yet lol!

Well if I'm gonna take that brake apart maybe ill just bite the bullet and remove the skid and order Travis' coolant protectors too.
 
vice108 said:
Man - I've never spent so much time working on a sled I haven't even ridden yet lol!

Well if I'm gonna take that brake apart maybe ill just bite the bullet and remove the skid and order Travis' coolant protectors too.
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My new 2020 was sloppy with 0km on sled. I would tear it down and do it right and you will have no problems for years to come.
Mine at 40lbs locked the shaft to the bearing. Just checked yesterday and after 5000km this year everything looks new..
 
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You can try what I did, I removed the 2 rear bolts for the suspension, I removed the 3 bolts that hold the calliper, removed the rotor off the shaft, put calliper back on and you will see and feel the play between shaft and bearing, install BOP wedge and torque till shaft is snug, remember torque remove wedge and reinstall everything back and torque wedge back to earlier torque.

I also Installed BOP hose protectors while I had the rear suspension bolt off and suspension hanging down, I had my sled on a sled lift though and you need long arms to do it this way.
 
Fabio said:
You can try what I did, I removed the 2 rear bolts for the suspension, I removed the 3 bolts that hold the calliper, removed the rotor off the shaft, put calliper back on and you will see and feel the play between shaft and bearing, install BOP wedge and torque till shaft is snug, remember torque remove wedge and reinstall everything back and torque wedge back to earlier torque.

I also Installed BOP hose protectors while I had the rear suspension bolt off and suspension hanging down, I had my sled on a sled lift though and you need long arms to do it this way.
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So you had your sled elevated on a regular sled lift and then your rear suspension hanging down to the floor is that correct?
 
Yes, I did both the drive shaft/bearing BOP wedge and the BOP hose protectors with the sled lift.
Regarding the BOP hose protectors it’s easier to remove the skid. I did it without removing skid which makes it more difficult.
 
Dr. FeeLGooD said:
My sidewinder xtx skid is the easiest to remove that I have ever had out.
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2 bolts is always easier than 4 !
With the season so short , for most , this year , it is going to be more challenging than ever to keep any kind of momentum going on TY till the snow flies next season .
Maybe we could have a contest similar to what the lumberjacks do on TV , when they race head to head cutting thru a log.
Our contest could be taking out the suspension , and r+r a bogie wheel , and r+r a set of sliders, and revalving a shock , and ......
Its only been about 2 weeks since I was sledding , and I am having major premature non riding induced anxiety.
Ly I had a couple more weekend rides still ahead of me , and just knowing I squeezed in every possible opportunity to ride , seemed to carry me thru the first couple months leading up to the first ride of the next season.
It is amazing what a difference one letter can make .
That letter is P.
Normally at this time of year I have a PLAYOFF BEARD !
This year I have a LAYOFF BEARD !

Stay safe .
 
Dr. FeeLGooD said:
My sidewinder xtx skid is the easiest to remove that I have ever had out.
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I agree. Removing and installing the XTX suspension was a breeze and its lighter then I expected...bonus!
I just had mine out to install the BOP hose protectors, install Dupont sliders, inspect drive shaft and bearing and complete suspension.
Everything was in excellent shape especially considering I just completing a 2500 mile season, even the OEM slides were in pretty good shape but I changed them anyway.
I had the BOP driveshaft bearing wedge in from new and there was no obvious signs of the bearing turning on the shaft.
 
Thanks everyone. I think ill just get the hose protectors too and pull the skid then. I just remember the bitch of a time i had re installing my mono skid but i know this one is much easier. I must say I have been shocked at how much easier this sled is to work on in a lot of ways. the body panels and especially hood assembly are such a breeze! The hood/headlight on the Apex was no fun and didnt give you access to much anyway. The same thing with being able to pop off the seat and quickly access the battery and gas tank on the winder! I love that. The only real PITA is the chaincase and tensioner. I did remove all my rivets from that lower panel and replace with rivet nuts for easier access to that.
 
sideshowBob said:
If you do your own maintenance, converting the lower side panels to rivet nuts is one of the best mods you can do to these sleds. I converted mine before I ever rode the sled.
Thanks ROCKERDAN!
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If you don't do your own maintenance that mod is more important , as it saves you money , instead of just your own time and beer !!!!
 
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