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Another victim of Cat Quality!

I'm re-using the shaft. I'm going to peen it and torque it to 150 ft/lbs if I have too.
 

DMCTurbo said:
I'm re-using the shaft. I'm going to peen it and torque it to 150 ft/lbs if I have too.
Click to expand...

The jaws will crush paste 70lbs and it will be junk. It will only expand max .0025, I wish it was made out of tool steel and hardened at it might take more.
 
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MrSled said:
The jaws will crush paste 70lbs and it will be junk. It will only expand max .0025, I wish it was made out of tool steel and hardened at it might take more.
Click to expand...
Good to know, I'm just a little frustrated.
 
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DMCTurbo said:
Good to know, I'm just a little frustrated.
Click to expand...

I understand completely. I felt the same on my 2020. Thats why I had the shaft machined and spray metaled so it was size and size and then added the bearing locker. It better never spin now.
 
hi guys this Arctic cat is bad but the problem is Yamaha Testing don't here of these problems i was talking to one of the engineer's that work at the test center and they don't know anything about front drive axle so i sent them and the top gear in the chain case. but what get me is these sleds are 16k plus and they are not worth in and it is a shame Yamaha even put there name on. when you YAMAHA it meant that you had the best. wonder if that will happen again can only hope.
 
I just spoke to my dealer to see if there was any chance of getting another shaft under warranty (I'm now out of warranty). They said they have tried and Yamaha isn't replacing them once warranty is out. I figured that but it was worth a phonecall.
 
DMCTurbo said:
Good to know, I'm just a little frustrated.
Click to expand...
I had great luck with drilling 4 divets where the bearing sits and using loctite 638 (slip fit) bearing retainer!!
I needed heat and a puller to remove the bearing
Here is a pic of the diameter of my shaft as long as your close to that diameter it should work.

Maybe you can loctite it along with the wedge?

The last pic is of the burnt retaining compound
On the shaft after removing bearing
 

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yamamarc said:
I had great luck with drilling 4 divets where the bearing sits and using loctite 638 (slip fit) bearing retainer!!
I needed heat and a puller to remove the bearing
Here is a pic of the diameter of my shaft as long as your close to that diameter it should work.

Maybe you can loctite it along with the wedge?

The last pic is of the burnt retaining compound
On the shaft after removing bearing
Click to expand...
I have to pick up a battery for my caliper then I'll check to accurately check.
 
I think i will be going with a low friction bearing and get the shaft welded up to the SAME size as the bearing. I will then cool the shaft and warm the bearing to get them to fit. Cool the shaft to remove......no pullers or loc-tite
https://baartgroup.com/axis-shaft-and-housing-fits/
this video may be helpful to solving this problem and find the correct fit.
 
It forgot to mention our shafts got the wedge as well as the loctite and peening treatment. Soon as we get one out I come back to this thread.
 
DMCTurbo said:
I'm re-using the shaft. I'm going to peen it and torque it to 150 ft/lbs if I have too.
Click to expand...
If you have a few days to spare , grab yourself a new quality bearing and bring your shaft over to a machine shop and have it welded up and turned down so the bearing requires some motivation to fit on shaft. I think I only paid $50 to get this done to mine and now I dont need loctite or dimples or wedges to hold it. Youll be done with it forever, only way mine is spinning is if it seizes solid.
 
justinator said:
If you have a few days to spare , grab yourself a new quality bearing and bring your shaft over to a machine shop and have it welded up and turned down so the bearing requires some motivation to fit on shaft. I think I only paid $50 to get this done to mine and now I dont need loctite or dimples or wedges to hold it. Youll be done with it forever, only way mine is spinning is if it seizes solid.
Click to expand...
Can this be done with the drivers on or do they need to be removed?


So to install it did you put the driveshaft in the freezer overnight?
 
DMCTurbo said:
Can this be done with the drivers on or do they need to be removed?


So to install it did you put the driveshaft in the freezer overnight?
Click to expand...
Yes you can keep the drivers on as long as the machines shop lathe is large enough. This shouldnt be an issue as the only lathes not big enough for this are the smaller bench top mounted ones. I did not cool shaft to install. I got the caliper started on shaft and then used a pipe that fit over shaft and rested against bearing and tapped it on. It didnt require ALOT of force to be put on but enough to keep the bearing on their firmly. I have an arctic cat dealer next door to my house and theyve fixed dozens of these shafts this same way and never had another issue. If you want to be extra confident you could reinstall your driveshaft wedge after but I dont think its needed. This is how alot of sleds out there are they dont have the issues like these shafts do, but they are made to correct tolerances from the get go.
 
I should of made myself more useful and measured the shaft when it was finalized before install. Might of been useful for others wanting to get this done.
 
justinator said:
If you have a few days to spare , grab yourself a new quality bearing and bring your shaft over to a machine shop and have it welded up and turned down so the bearing requires some motivation to fit on shaft. I think I only paid $50 to get this done to mine and now I dont need loctite or dimples or wedges to hold it. Youll be done with it forever, only way mine is spinning is if it seizes solid.
Click to expand...
I have a machine shop lined up tomorrow to give me a price. Thanks.
 
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