RX1red
Newbie
I did 5100 miles this year and I had to change the inside wheels.Had to change every 1600 miles.Eats the bearing right out.Seems Yamaha has done nothing to fix this.2007 has same set up.Am I the only one with this problem???
TJ#4
Newbie
Mine were replaced before season. I check them before rides. Cleaned and repacked bearing as needed. About 3000 miles so far on this set. Will probably buy aftermarket ones with replaceable bearing before next season.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
It's a fairly common problem with the 6005 bearings in that location and the hard plastic wheels (especially if the hyfax is worn down a bit or the rails are starting to crack). Mine were bad about every 1600 miles last season too.
This season I machined the inside idler wheel mounts down by 0.060" and installed 2004 idler wheels with the much stronger 6205 bearing (instead of the 6005's the 05 and 06 sleds ran).
This season I changed the inner bearings once in 9500 kms (5900 miles). I also didn't loose any idler wheels (as in fall off like last season...).
One other solution that seems to work reasonably well is to go with the spoked Yamaha accessory wheels. These still use the 6005 bearing, but the rubber holds together (unlike the stock 06 wheels) and the combination of the rubber and spokes seems to allow the bearing to last a long time (not quite as good as the 6205 solution, but close, lighter, no machining required, and the bearing can be changed).
This season I machined the inside idler wheel mounts down by 0.060" and installed 2004 idler wheels with the much stronger 6205 bearing (instead of the 6005's the 05 and 06 sleds ran).
This season I changed the inner bearings once in 9500 kms (5900 miles). I also didn't loose any idler wheels (as in fall off like last season...).
One other solution that seems to work reasonably well is to go with the spoked Yamaha accessory wheels. These still use the 6005 bearing, but the rubber holds together (unlike the stock 06 wheels) and the combination of the rubber and spokes seems to allow the bearing to last a long time (not quite as good as the 6205 solution, but close, lighter, no machining required, and the bearing can be changed).
TJ#4
Newbie
ReX - Did you machine the surface of the idler mount that contacts the rail or the shoulder on the mount that the wheel contacts when bolted on? Did you replace the front 4 idlers as well? Is machining needed on these mounts? What brand of 6205 bearing hold up best to this application? Thx.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
I machined the shoulder that the bearing is pushed up against.
I replaced all 6 of the idlers.
You only need to machine the inner two mounts. These need to be machined to keep the idler wheels centered between the track cogs (some have not bothered with the machining and don't seem to be having problems either).
It's also a good idea to use longer bolts on 4 of them because the locking portion of the nut doesn't engage enough to lock properly.
Do a search on idler with my name in the search. Somewhere before I posted the part number for the bolts (if you want stock looking green Yamaha bolts).
I've tried many different bearings and haven't noticed much difference in durability as long as they aren't cheap "made in china" bearings (I've used NTN, SKF, etc.).
One thing I have noticed is the more expensive NTN "blue seal" bearings (with "special snowmobile grease") don't seem to last any longer than regular good quality bearings (with regular grease). They might spin easier but I haven't noticed...
I replaced all 6 of the idlers.
You only need to machine the inner two mounts. These need to be machined to keep the idler wheels centered between the track cogs (some have not bothered with the machining and don't seem to be having problems either).
It's also a good idea to use longer bolts on 4 of them because the locking portion of the nut doesn't engage enough to lock properly.
Do a search on idler with my name in the search. Somewhere before I posted the part number for the bolts (if you want stock looking green Yamaha bolts).
I've tried many different bearings and haven't noticed much difference in durability as long as they aren't cheap "made in china" bearings (I've used NTN, SKF, etc.).
One thing I have noticed is the more expensive NTN "blue seal" bearings (with "special snowmobile grease") don't seem to last any longer than regular good quality bearings (with regular grease). They might spin easier but I haven't noticed...
maddogjeff
Expert
It is unbelievable that Yamaha doesn't have this solved. I finally gave up after the '06 wheels fell apart within 400 miles, machined the mounts, put Doo wheels on which only cost $20/each and they've lasted now for 1300 miles and look like new. YO, Yamaha, why do your wheels cost 3 times as much and only last 1/3 of the miles?
The Doo and Poo wheel bearings are .120 (3mm) wider so for the inner wheels the bearing mounts have to machined .060 and the shock mount brackets have to turned down the same on each side to keep the wheels centered. Any machine shop can easily do this on a lathe, it took my quy an hour to do all 8 cuts. But then there is the hassle of pulling the skid which isn't too hard for the Venture. The outer wheels just need a longer bolt, Yami part# SMA-8EK38-01:95817-10085-00. Doo wheel part# 503190802.
The Doo and Poo wheel bearings are .120 (3mm) wider so for the inner wheels the bearing mounts have to machined .060 and the shock mount brackets have to turned down the same on each side to keep the wheels centered. Any machine shop can easily do this on a lathe, it took my quy an hour to do all 8 cuts. But then there is the hassle of pulling the skid which isn't too hard for the Venture. The outer wheels just need a longer bolt, Yami part# SMA-8EK38-01:95817-10085-00. Doo wheel part# 503190802.
TJ#4
Newbie
Thanks for all the info. Making the switch to replaceable bearing should make life easier. I've already done this with the rear axle wheels.
Did you notice the odd wear pattern on the original 2 inner idler wheels? The outer perimeter was worn at an angle (more wear towards center of track). I am not sure if back of the studs caused this wear or the forces that cause the rails to crack at the wheel mounts. Any theories?
Did you notice the odd wear pattern on the original 2 inner idler wheels? The outer perimeter was worn at an angle (more wear towards center of track). I am not sure if back of the studs caused this wear or the forces that cause the rails to crack at the wheel mounts. Any theories?
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
RX1red said:
Why would Yamaha want to fix this?
Think of all the extra $$$ they are getting from those riders who are willing to accept buying new "Yamaha" wheels every year because the bearings are fried but the wheel is good, OR the wheels are warped/torn but the bearings are still good.
Everyone, BOYCOTT Yamaha wheels and invest in the aftermarket ones!
Fortune telling time: In 2008, Yamaha will release this new idler wheel stock in all sleds....
Attachments
maddogjeff
Expert
Those new Yami wheels look like the trick, will really save on the weight. LOL
shanksRX-1
Expert
- Joined
- Feb 6, 2006
- Messages
- 395
- Location
- Pennellville, NY
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2010 Apex
- LOCATION
- Pennellville, NY
I didnt even know I was supposed to have wheels on the inside. I just looked and sure enough there are the bearing races with no wheels to bee seen. I think I might leave it like that and just ride it ...
maddogjeff
Expert
shanksRX-1 said:
That's great. Definitely better off with no wheels than Yami wheels.
Grimm
TY 4 Stroke God
shanksRX-1 said:
How's the wear on the sliders in the area where your wheels have disintegrated? If the sliders are worn severely, you might want to replace those wheels. If not, then keep riding without them and check that area regularly.
I just finished swapping the idlers with larger 5.375" Kimpex wheels, as well as added a couple more along the rail to reduce slider wear. We'll see next season.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
At 5K miles, at the end of year three, my origonal inner idler wheel's bearings were siezed. They are 6205s. I replaced the bearings when I put in the Pioneer offset axle this Spring. The four outer front indlers were all o.k. However, I repacked them when I put on Pioneer's offset wheel spacers. The wheels themselves all looked good.
So, ... Someone mentioned that you can overpack a bearing. How much is too much? I could see that with a full bearing expansion could possibly push off the seal. Has this happened to anyone out there?
So, ... Someone mentioned that you can overpack a bearing. How much is too much? I could see that with a full bearing expansion could possibly push off the seal. Has this happened to anyone out there?
Snorover
Expert
- Joined
- Apr 15, 2003
- Messages
- 366
- Age
- 87
- Location
- Kittery/Fayette,Maine
- Country
- USA
- Snowmobile
- 2017 Viper
I pack mine good and have never had a seal come loose. The more grease you put in the harder the wheel turns.
The next time you clean a bearing check how easy the bearing turns, then add a little grease and you will see the difference.
The next time you clean a bearing check how easy the bearing turns, then add a little grease and you will see the difference.
rxmaninblack
Extreme
I just pulled the skid out of my 05 with 4600mi.
The rear center wheel bearing race was stuck to the shaft. I will be replaceing every thing this summer. I know that Skidoo sc10-3 boggies are just 3/16 larger in diameter. They also have replaceable 6205 bearings. I used to ride a 02 mxz
and would replace a couple of bearings every season. I would take a pan of water and heat it up on a kerosene heater. Set the whole wheel in the water and let it heat up. Bearings would slide right out. Heat the wheel up again and presss the new bearing back in. Too easy
The rear center wheel bearing race was stuck to the shaft. I will be replaceing every thing this summer. I know that Skidoo sc10-3 boggies are just 3/16 larger in diameter. They also have replaceable 6205 bearings. I used to ride a 02 mxz
and would replace a couple of bearings every season. I would take a pan of water and heat it up on a kerosene heater. Set the whole wheel in the water and let it heat up. Bearings would slide right out. Heat the wheel up again and presss the new bearing back in. Too easy
