kinger
VIP Member
Just wondering if the kit has only cracked on some apex's or if it effects the RX's as well. Also if your trail riding or mountain. Thanks
Better question would be any Simmons kits without a cracked header out there.
Rx1M5
Rx1M5
Rx1M5 said:
YEA SO TRUE!!
tonykof
Expert
I have one that isn't cracked!
Great, now I suppose I just jinxed it...
Great, now I suppose I just jinxed it...
kinger
VIP Member
How many miles and what type of riding do you do?
tonykof
Expert
I think around 600-800 on boost 1200 total miles on sled.. I guess we can call it Trail riding... Seems like I'm always either drag racing buddies or radar runs though.. 
We've got about 6000 trail miles on a Simons kit, header lasted the first year and a half (~2500 miles) then I've had to weld it once or twice a season since. For the power, its worth it.
samrx1
Veteran
where are the crack on the header ?
do they always crack at the same place?
do you have a pict ..?
only for info ..thank you.
sam.
do they always crack at the same place?
do you have a pict ..?
only for info ..thank you.
sam.
kinger
VIP Member
Yeah I just find it odd that they would crack, would a support help the issue, is it too much heat, we dont know? Seems like a lot of pros build these things and no one can keep it from cracking. I guess that is why OEM's go cast iron.
Ive got 2000 miles on my Apex and there are no cracks so far. All trail miles. My RX-1 cracked once and was repaired, pretty sure the guy who bought that sled also cracked it a few times. It is a major pain in the rear taking that header off to fix.
I treated both sleds exactly the same. Let it warm up good before taking off and let if cool down good before shutting the sled off. I have been more carefull on the trails when I see big bumps with the Apex, but that kind of sucks. Cracking a header is always on your mind with a front mount.
All the more reason Id like to see one of these aftermarketers build a cast header or come up with some sort of support system.
I treated both sleds exactly the same. Let it warm up good before taking off and let if cool down good before shutting the sled off. I have been more carefull on the trails when I see big bumps with the Apex, but that kind of sucks. Cracking a header is always on your mind with a front mount.
All the more reason Id like to see one of these aftermarketers build a cast header or come up with some sort of support system.
Need for Speed 2
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Matt a mid mount with a spring holding the weight is the answer
kinger
VIP Member
NFS2 are you going to offer a kit? I like that mid mount
SNIPER31X
Newbie
cracked header
Ive got cracks around every exhaust port and one that runs 3/4 of the way around one of the upright tubes. this thing has been pounded 2500 miles and has been broken for about 2 seasons now. i am going to try to weld braces on a new one. unless someone comes up with one that makes same power and doesnt break.
Ive got cracks around every exhaust port and one that runs 3/4 of the way around one of the upright tubes. this thing has been pounded 2500 miles and has been broken for about 2 seasons now. i am going to try to weld braces on a new one. unless someone comes up with one that makes same power and doesnt break.
TWIN TURBO
Expert
Help is on the way!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm in the prosess of gathering pieces to build 10 or so of them but I'm going to add aliitle quality and improve the scavanging characteristics a bit. I don't like the way they blend cylinders 2 and 3 together. There is enough room to run 4 individual tubes into a collector like I build race headers. The question is what are you guys willing to pay for. Sometimes I read all the complaints about this guys header and that guys header and have to ask if you all realize the EXTREEMLY harsh environment these things have to live in, to say nothing of the punishment of poor tuning, poor shielding and etc. We can build them out of 304 stainless like everyone else is doing which is bare bones stainless, or we can build them out of 316 or 321 like I build my race headers. The issue here is COST, 321 is double 304, the labor is the same. What are all of you willing to pay for???????
I'm not going to give you the big BS story of how we spent 6 months designing it and etc, but they will be dyno tested before one leaves the door, I know we can do better than what you guys are using. If any of you are interested PM or e-mail or call me. Would like to see these out for this season if your at all interested.
I'm in the prosess of gathering pieces to build 10 or so of them but I'm going to add aliitle quality and improve the scavanging characteristics a bit. I don't like the way they blend cylinders 2 and 3 together. There is enough room to run 4 individual tubes into a collector like I build race headers. The question is what are you guys willing to pay for. Sometimes I read all the complaints about this guys header and that guys header and have to ask if you all realize the EXTREEMLY harsh environment these things have to live in, to say nothing of the punishment of poor tuning, poor shielding and etc. We can build them out of 304 stainless like everyone else is doing which is bare bones stainless, or we can build them out of 316 or 321 like I build my race headers. The issue here is COST, 321 is double 304, the labor is the same. What are all of you willing to pay for???????
I'm not going to give you the big BS story of how we spent 6 months designing it and etc, but they will be dyno tested before one leaves the door, I know we can do better than what you guys are using. If any of you are interested PM or e-mail or call me. Would like to see these out for this season if your at all interested.
kinger
VIP Member
I see your web page is already updated. 2 yr gurantee on your 321 header is nice.
http://www.powerbygns.com/Products.html
http://www.powerbygns.com/Products.html
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