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Apex drivetrain questions

Nikolai

TY 4 Stroke God
Joined
May 27, 2006
Messages
2,423
Location
Anchorage, Alaska
I have a few questions concerning Apex drivetrain if anyone can help.

1. On the Apex jackshaft, on the clutch side where the tapered bearing is, is the shaft smooth? It's hard to tell from pictures. Basically, I'm wondering if a normal bearing could be used and moved in 1" closer towards the chaincase.

2. From all the searching I've done, it looks like the driveshafts break at around the 8k-10k mile mark. In 2011 they went to the 1.25" shaft. I want to use the 2007 non reverse chaincase(lightest Apex chaincase) and I'm wondering if I buy a new oem 2008 driveshaft, is it safe to say it'll live on a 190 hp sled that's in the 400 lb range? It'll be purely a mountain sled.

I want to put the Apex chaincase in a 15.5" wide chassis.
 
Last edited:

I can't answer your question but I'd suggest getting ahold of Ulmer Racing they have a stronger aftermarket one available. Mine broke at 7400. This is on a stock trail sled.
 
The shaft is turned a couple thousands smaller between the bearing mounting area and the chaincase, however the bearing mounting surface is 3" long. This might work.
The heavy driveshaft started in the 2010 model year.
The driveshaft failures start at the setscrew on the drive sprocket. That collar can be slid back for inspection and rotated periodically to put the setscrew on another flat. Most Yamaha suspensions increase track tension as they compress which I suspect is the cause of fractured driveshafts
The 2010 apex uses a regular bearing on the jackshaft without a tapered inner race.
 
Thankyou guys for the help. There's a 2007 Apex w/ reverse being parted out locally and I'm picking up the inner chaincase half, jack shaft, brake rotor & caliper.

I've done a tone of comparing on the Microfiche and the FX Nytro uses the same gears, chain, tensioner, and speedo gear as the Apex/RX1/Vector so that saves me some money. I think the brake caliper on the Nytro will even work but I'll know for sure once I have both. I know the c to c on the mounting holes is the same, I think the banjo bolt is just in a different location.

It looks like I'm stuck using the 8FA-47511-00-00 driveshaft because the 1.25" driveshaft is longer and is supported by an additional bearing in the chaincase cover which the non reverse (and reverse pre 2010) did not have.
 


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