sniperviper
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
Have just been out riding my fx in good snowconditions. Track tension is loose and my running wheels are where they are supposed to be but still I'm toasting my slides..
Beginning to wonder if they are made of cheeze![Banghead :o| :o|](/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/banghead.gif)
Was driving with to friends, one on a prox 800 and the other on zr 900. They had no problems with theyr slides.
Beginning to wonder if they are made of cheeze
![Banghead :o| :o|](/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/banghead.gif)
Was driving with to friends, one on a prox 800 and the other on zr 900. They had no problems with theyr slides.
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I broke mine in on the lake and I have almost no wear at 300 miles.
go200mph
Expert
Mr. Sled,
What exactly did you do to break them in. Really heat them up and then let them cool off?
What exactly did you do to break them in. Really heat them up and then let them cool off?
no issue yet with mine at 300 km.did smell plastic on my last ride but i was on a lake with barely any snow
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Ran them hard on the lake for 1/2 mile, then cool them down in the snow, did this several times...helps a ton.
Topper
Extreme
Must be something to that because last week while riding some real icy trails I could feel my sled dragging just like I had the brake half on, so I pulled out in loose snow and cooled things off and that was the end of problems. TopperMrSled said:Ran them hard on the lake for 1/2 mile, then cool them down in the snow, did this several times...helps a ton.
Vmax4
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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500 miles and no wear.
maddogjeff
Expert
Hyfaxes, hifaxes, slides, sliders, runners, whatever you want to call them, there seems to be a major issue with wear on any sled with the Ripsaw track that is clipped only every 3rd rib and has the closed window every other window. In other words you have a clipped rib, open window, non-clipped rib, closed window, non-clipped rib, open window. Supposedly the closed window was to catch snow but all it did was rub against the slide, heat it up and build up plastic on the closed window.
There seems to be 5 solutions that have been posted.
1. Put on low snow wheels and add additional idler wheels. This can be expensive and if Yamaha made a decent idler wheel (whole other issue), this could be a long term fix.
2. Cut out the closed windows and clip all the ribs. This is very time consuming and prone to mistakes and somewhat expensive but it works and is a long term fix.
3. SLP anti-wear pads. Cheap, $30. Easy, 2 hours of labor. They work. I put them on my '05 Rs Venture at the beginning of this year and have put on 1700 miles and have only worn off 1.5mm of hifax. The Venture atarts with 18.5mm of hifax and has a wear limit of 10.5mm giving me 8mm of usable hifax. Last year after 1700 miles I had worn off 6mm. Based on this year's rate of wear with the pads, my hifax should last 9,000 miles - SWEEET. One problem with these is that the pads themselves wear, don’t know how long they’ll last but for the price and time to do it, won’t mind replacing them once in a while.
4. Change out the Yamaha idler wheels and put on oversized Poo/Doo wheels. You have to machine the mounts because of different sized bearings but this works and is a long term fix.
5. Be patient, let them wear all the way down. Get a pair of calipers and measure the actual wear. The Venture hyfaxes start off with 18.5mm (top to bottom), manual says wear limit is 10.5mm, giving you 8mm of wear. The first 4mm melted off in 450 miles. At this point you get really nervous and want to change them out but then a switch gets turned on and they quit melting. MM 5 lasted for 450 miles. MM 6 lasted for 500 miles. MM 7 lasted for 830 miles and still half of it to go. I put on 3000 miles ‘04/05 season. And that was the end of the season. I would have loved to seen what that last 1.5mm would have lasted but I'm putting a new set on for the next season. Most people think that the slides just get conditioned, I believe they just become thin enough so that the rails start acting as heat sinks and dissipate enough heat to keep them from melting. That last 1.5mm just may have lasted this whole next season. Having said all this I still hate being nervous about them and decided to use the anti-wear pads.
Boys, don't hold your breath, get some piece of mind and go with solution 3.
Starting Line Products 208-529-0244
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/
Part # 25-102 Anti-Wear Pad Kit 40 Pak (other packs available)
Part# 20-160 Track drill 1/4"
Pics -
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
Look at this thread -
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
There seems to be 5 solutions that have been posted.
1. Put on low snow wheels and add additional idler wheels. This can be expensive and if Yamaha made a decent idler wheel (whole other issue), this could be a long term fix.
2. Cut out the closed windows and clip all the ribs. This is very time consuming and prone to mistakes and somewhat expensive but it works and is a long term fix.
3. SLP anti-wear pads. Cheap, $30. Easy, 2 hours of labor. They work. I put them on my '05 Rs Venture at the beginning of this year and have put on 1700 miles and have only worn off 1.5mm of hifax. The Venture atarts with 18.5mm of hifax and has a wear limit of 10.5mm giving me 8mm of usable hifax. Last year after 1700 miles I had worn off 6mm. Based on this year's rate of wear with the pads, my hifax should last 9,000 miles - SWEEET. One problem with these is that the pads themselves wear, don’t know how long they’ll last but for the price and time to do it, won’t mind replacing them once in a while.
4. Change out the Yamaha idler wheels and put on oversized Poo/Doo wheels. You have to machine the mounts because of different sized bearings but this works and is a long term fix.
5. Be patient, let them wear all the way down. Get a pair of calipers and measure the actual wear. The Venture hyfaxes start off with 18.5mm (top to bottom), manual says wear limit is 10.5mm, giving you 8mm of wear. The first 4mm melted off in 450 miles. At this point you get really nervous and want to change them out but then a switch gets turned on and they quit melting. MM 5 lasted for 450 miles. MM 6 lasted for 500 miles. MM 7 lasted for 830 miles and still half of it to go. I put on 3000 miles ‘04/05 season. And that was the end of the season. I would have loved to seen what that last 1.5mm would have lasted but I'm putting a new set on for the next season. Most people think that the slides just get conditioned, I believe they just become thin enough so that the rails start acting as heat sinks and dissipate enough heat to keep them from melting. That last 1.5mm just may have lasted this whole next season. Having said all this I still hate being nervous about them and decided to use the anti-wear pads.
Boys, don't hold your breath, get some piece of mind and go with solution 3.
Starting Line Products 208-529-0244
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/
Part # 25-102 Anti-Wear Pad Kit 40 Pak (other packs available)
Part# 20-160 Track drill 1/4"
Pics -
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
Look at this thread -
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... highlight=
monker
TY 4 Stroke Guru
maddog- the tracks on the phazer (at least the FX) are all open window, and large windows at that.
maddogjeff
Expert
monker said:maddog- the tracks on the phazer (at least the FX) are all open window, and large windows at that.
Are they all clipped? If not, clipping them would be the solution.
I have a Camoplast Freeride track on mine. (All clipped)
After 420 km one of my slides are allmost worn out just in front of the idler wheel. The difference in wear between left and right slide is 3mm.
Why does it melt only one slide?
After 420 km one of my slides are allmost worn out just in front of the idler wheel. The difference in wear between left and right slide is 3mm.
Why does it melt only one slide?
Vmax4
TY 4 Stroke Guru
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My solution to this is as follows. I have an 03 RX-1 with 5000 miles on it, and the original sliders are still on it. I have an 07 Phazer FX and have seen little to no wear on them yet.
I run the track adjustment as loose as possible. To the point where you almost feel it is too loose. As long as it is not balooning into the tunnel protectors, or ratcheting you are fine.
I would be interested to know how many people having problems with hi-fax wear are studded, and how many are from low snow conditions of lake riding?
I run the track adjustment as loose as possible. To the point where you almost feel it is too loose. As long as it is not balooning into the tunnel protectors, or ratcheting you are fine.
I would be interested to know how many people having problems with hi-fax wear are studded, and how many are from low snow conditions of lake riding?
Motoman765
Expert
Hyfax wear problems
Well we finally got some snow here in Michigan and I was finally able to go out and do some riding on my FX. Hear are the issues that I had: First ride was great no problems at all, went to the U.P. and rode a mix of trails and back country exploring/two track unplowed roads (with about 10 inches of snow), 140 miles of riding. Trails were a little thin in spots (ice in the corners), but other wise OK. Second ride was around Traverse City where the trails were groomed the night before (was done prematurely as the snow was not deep enough and they just turned up the dirt into the snow making a 50/50 dirt snow mix). Rode 70 miles of that and had enough and packed up and went to my uncle house. While riding at T.C. I felt the track skipping teeth on the track when I launched hard from a dead stop. So before riding at my Uncle's house I took the sled in the garage and washed it down and proceeded to tighten up the track. This was expected with a new track that it would stretch, but while tightening the track I noticed that the hyfax were already worn down to the limit on the sides and curled up on the side. I trimmed the curls off and checked for any spots the were worn through, didn't see any. So we went out for a night ride doing some ditch banging, unplowed back road running and riding through the local woods trails. Snow was great, fresh snow up to the running boards in the fields and ditches. We put on 30 miles and when we got back I checked my hyfax again and now they are gone!!! When I say gone I mean all the way down to the metal on the front curve of the slides by the front shock and wheels. This is unacceptable wear for hyfax, 240 miles and I'm down to the metal! I've ridden that far in one day before. I shouldn't have to worry about if my hyfax are going to make it through one day of riding.
The question now is what are the best possible fixes? I'm going to buy new hyfax and put track clips on the rest of the track that doesn't have them on it (stock 1" ripsaw that came with the sled). Is there a better hyfax available the is supposed to wear better than the stock ones, or is this the best Yamaha has to offer? This is my first Yamaha sled (rode Arctic Cat in the 90's, and Ski-Doo from '99 till this year) and I hope this isn't going to be an ongoing problem. Any insight from other Yamaha riders is greatly appreciated.
Well we finally got some snow here in Michigan and I was finally able to go out and do some riding on my FX. Hear are the issues that I had: First ride was great no problems at all, went to the U.P. and rode a mix of trails and back country exploring/two track unplowed roads (with about 10 inches of snow), 140 miles of riding. Trails were a little thin in spots (ice in the corners), but other wise OK. Second ride was around Traverse City where the trails were groomed the night before (was done prematurely as the snow was not deep enough and they just turned up the dirt into the snow making a 50/50 dirt snow mix). Rode 70 miles of that and had enough and packed up and went to my uncle house. While riding at T.C. I felt the track skipping teeth on the track when I launched hard from a dead stop. So before riding at my Uncle's house I took the sled in the garage and washed it down and proceeded to tighten up the track. This was expected with a new track that it would stretch, but while tightening the track I noticed that the hyfax were already worn down to the limit on the sides and curled up on the side. I trimmed the curls off and checked for any spots the were worn through, didn't see any. So we went out for a night ride doing some ditch banging, unplowed back road running and riding through the local woods trails. Snow was great, fresh snow up to the running boards in the fields and ditches. We put on 30 miles and when we got back I checked my hyfax again and now they are gone!!! When I say gone I mean all the way down to the metal on the front curve of the slides by the front shock and wheels. This is unacceptable wear for hyfax, 240 miles and I'm down to the metal! I've ridden that far in one day before. I shouldn't have to worry about if my hyfax are going to make it through one day of riding.
The question now is what are the best possible fixes? I'm going to buy new hyfax and put track clips on the rest of the track that doesn't have them on it (stock 1" ripsaw that came with the sled). Is there a better hyfax available the is supposed to wear better than the stock ones, or is this the best Yamaha has to offer? This is my first Yamaha sled (rode Arctic Cat in the 90's, and Ski-Doo from '99 till this year) and I hope this isn't going to be an ongoing problem. Any insight from other Yamaha riders is greatly appreciated.
checkman39
Pro
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2006
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I have 300 miles on my yellow slides and minimal wear. Like Srxspec said you need to break them in. Ever since I was told how to break them in they have always lasted on my Arctic Cats. I see that Yamaha offers a low snow wheel kit for the front cure of the rail and High Performance slides. I don't think I need them though.
Phazed-Coug
Expert
One thing I noticed while riding with a friend who has a GT, is that the bogie wheels(or idler..) the ones that run on the skid, often sit there and don't even move, I'm pretty sure my MTN lites don't roll often either.
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