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Artic Cat Skid Settings

Lee, I'm not positive here but looking at your track you may have too much stretch with than many holes drilled. Possible? I may be crazy, but I hear some guys have issues with far less holes.
 

Good point! It seems to work fine when tightened up a bit.

I sure do love the new approach angle! It's flat amazing how the sled gets up on the snow now.

I sure hope the track holds up. So far, so good.

In hindsight. I think I would have drilled two holes in the center belt (so no idlers are traveling over the holes). The outer belt holes are 3/4" not the 1 1/8" of the center belt.

Thanks Tim
 
You know??

Now that I think about it. I should have listened to you and tried the skid without the Holz torque arm relocation kit first. The track probably would have tightened up perfectly without it and may have eliminated my ratcheting altogether?

On the other hand maybe the track could stretch too much and break with all the holes I have in it?

Hum?

Frosty
 
I don't know what to say about the ratcheting....Like I said, I just finally tightened mine this weekend because I had a full hand's width of sag when I put a little pressure on the track and I have never ratched with stock drivers?????? Also, I have 3 holes in my track and have not had an issue with it in almost 2000 miles so I don't think that is a problem. Anyway, sure gets up on the snow nice....eh??? I rode my wife's Vector Mt and got it stuck this weekend on a spot that mine would have easily climbed out of. I guess you get so used to the capabilities of your own sled that you assume that a new sled will operate the same but I have to say it isn't even close and I'm not talking about WOT....I'm talking 1/3 throttle stuff. Anyway, I love my sled.


Rt
 
Trxster, 3 holes would probably be ok, but I think Lee has 5 on every row. I'm going to drill mine, 3 holes maybe. I haven't ratcheted once, and I ran up a rock at WOT. But my skid does tighten under compression, still not sure if I should add it. I'm real happy. Just need snow!
 
I fired up the stove in the shop to melt all the snow off the sled after yesterday and inspect the skid. I had 1 1/8" of sag after my in the dark track adjustment last evening. I went to an even 1" because it still did ratchet a small amount at 1 1/8". I hope to slowly back it off over time.

One thing I noticed is the tops of the support arms from the shock back to the new Holz higher mount point have come in contact with the track and the metal angled pieces on it. I imagine that happened when I had the front spring at full soft and the suspension must have just about collapsed to do this. It could have never done this without the Holz bracket raising the mount point an inch.

I also see there are 9 cross tubes on this suspension (141"). It looks to me like 2 or maybe three of them (the aluminum tubes that say ALCOA) could be removed because there are steel supports within an inch or two of them. I don't understand why they are there except maybe because I have a prototype skid? What about the one just forward of the rear wheels? Is that a stop for the scissor assembly directly behind it?

I readjusted my suspension and took very thorough notes. My front shock has about 5 turns of adjustment. I set it three turns tighter than bottomed out (softest). I left the transfer rods all the way out. It may be because I put the deep V Powder skis on that it seems to work there but it works well. The rear trangular blocks I left in the middle for now because it seems to work well there as well. I guess the big question is the front shock but I'm sure in another ride or two I'll have it dialed.

Now, should I try the skid without the Holz bracket and see if the track tightening nature of this skid eliminates my ratcheting?

Frostbite
 
I wonder if your ratcheting is due to the different size skid? Maybe the 153" rails pull the skid back more??? I don't know that the track squeeze without the Holtz bracket will make a difference....doesn't your skid usually ratchet when the bottom drops out (like in deep powder)? Also, is your skid an m7 skid or what? Hmmm

T
 
T, yes it's a M7 skid and it's a 141" with my stock 151" track. Yes, the only time it has ever ratcheted with the Pro Action skid or the AC skid is when the bottom falls out and the skid drops all the way out of the tunnel.

Would tightening the front shock would help, or not?

It's funny on the ratcheting. The tips of the extroverts are worn but there is no evidence of the internal drivers ever slipping (wear). Maybe the track is ballooning and just going around the front of the drivers and only a banjo tight track keeps the track in contact with the drivers?

Frosty
 
OK guys, I am now having increased vibration w/my skid. I would like to know if you are all still having vibrations and if not, what was the fix? I have a 1M skid in my RX-1. I took the front idlers out and am thinking of putting them back on. It looks like I have some wear on my hyfax where the bend is. It also looks like the plastic covers on the front of the rails are worn a little. The nubs on the track look OK so I really don't know where to go from here. Would like to get some feedback on the changes you have made to fix this vibration. Everyone that rode my sled commented on the vibration and it is getting worse. Very bad when transitioning out of a hole when all the weight is on the front of the skid and you are giving is some throttle. I can also feel it when traveling down the trail at lower speeds, but it goes after 30-35mph or so.

J.
 
I do still have a noise every now and again when I go down in to a big hole and the front tips rub a bit on the track. It is not as bad now as it used to be. However, since moving my front shock bar back and up and tightening the preload almost all the way, all of the trail vibration I used to get is gone. Limiters are out, back shock is medium, and I am in the middle hole on my drop brackets. I would lift the sled and look under that front shock mount. Your nubs probably look ok but the mount bar will likely show some wear. I believe that is most of the trail vibration, not the tips.


Rt
 
I just read a clip on the AC skids rail tips hitting the windows of the track causing vibration. I have the same vibration so what I did was get a mirror and look at that lower shock mount bar. IF.....you have the front bogie wheels on, they will not rub. If you don't they will rub for sure. The vibration is a common problem on the M7's especially, and they make an anti-stab wheel kit to bolt on between the rail tips that fixes it. It's like $80. Looser you run the track the worse it will get! I think for safety I am going to get it coming, because I also looked at my tips after reading this clip and their is some wear there likewise.


Check out this link and go to the top of the page:

http://www.hiperf.com/cgi-bin/sh000001. ... AC_2dWHKIT

Look through their site though, because they have the same wheels but like $80.

Aaron
 
Today when riding the 162 attack 20 on the 153 skid i did notice that if i am stopped at the base of a hill and i go WFO, there is quite the vibration and it sounds like the track is hitting something. No spearing today, but i am worried about it.

I am going to get some bogie wheels put on the front and hope it stops the vibration. I can do anything else with no problems. just when i go full throttle up hill a bit.
 
SoCoRX1, it sound slike you are ratcheting at WFO to me. It sounds so familar! Are you running extroverts? I only experienced it at WOT as well but I was at throttle setting enough to warrant going to extroverts and now the AC skid.
If it's not ratcheting you may want to crank your limiter straps up a notch.

Frosty
 
The only problem with pulling the limiters is a reduction of transfer and more ski pressure. Good for trail, not so good for other stuff. The idea of spearing a track is a bit scary. That is one reason I stayed with the 2.5" pitch rather than going with the 3" pitch. I would get the antistab kit if I were you.


Rt
 
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