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Asphalt Results 2003 (RX1)

This was a big problem!!!

"Hey everyone - W.I.R. 7/5/03 Temp was 93 degrees, with 40% humidity, sunny with a 12 mph headwind. Barometer read 29.1."

With the temp that high I doubt you were making good HP.



Number 2 instead of going with the aluminum bolts you should have tried the 3/8 with no washer in the middle as well as the tip. Now your over reving. In my opinion you dropped to much weight to fast.


If I was You I'd stick to the stock air box until you get your clutching right. Then if you RPM's go up or down when you make the change you'll know if they help or hinder you.
 

Terry, Be pateint buddy. You need to leave the primary spring alone and leave the airbox in. We cant make several changes at one time. Werent you in the 1.5 60 ft times with the stock primary spring? Every time you change something, it effects another. So by chaging the primary spring and the weight calibrations at the same time, its very hard to tell you why you went backwards. Re-install stock spring, and run the weights as recommended. If you notice your speedo showing the same MPH once shifted out, your out of gear. Call my cell phone tonight. Ill be away from the house. 715-340-0554. Later...BBY
 
Hey BBY (Matt) - I thought the spring only effects rpm engagement, I thought I would try it from Ryan's point. Should I do the 3/8 steel, middle and tip like J says, or go to the setup you sent me, or try ??? I will call you around 6'ish.

Hey J - The guy with the skidoo that runs about the same as I did on Wed. ran 11.21-11.23 all day also, which proves the temp change, but the zr900 ran 10.80 on the button again. Is it fuel injected? I never noticed. A pro bike that has a fuel injected Ninja motor, ran 9.90's like he always has also. :?

Also, track temp was 132 Degrees. HOTSEEE, TOTSEEE!!!
 
nos-pro: Terry that white primary spring is from maxximum performance. It has a diffrent spring rate and total force then the stock yamaha spring. the total force on the stock spring is 120kg and the white is 144kg. YOu know have to add weight to stop it from slipping the belt in the primary. That's why your over reving.

Now fuel. I'm assuming the guy on the ZR900 jetted his carbs for the temps. Your running stock jetting right???
 
One more thing. I used that same white primary spring on the ice this winter. after 500 feet the sled felt like it was pulling anymore. That spring sucks!!!!!

If you what to up the engaugement I have the spring for you!!! However you had excellent 60 foot times. You don't need more engaugemnet in my opinion!!!!!
 
I agree with Jason, your 60ft. times are great. No need for higher engagement. As for the tip setup. Essensialy we are trying to do the same thing and that is lighten it up. 3/8 steel bolt is fine. If you use the alum, them add shims as noted last week. Ill be out of cell phone range at 6:00 tonight. Send me an email if I need to clear anything up. Later...BBY
 
You hit it right on the head J!

BBY, you got mail.
 
For racing any distance over 660' ideally you want a dual angle helix. A stright cut steep angle works for shorter racing but there is not enuff squeeze on the belt at hogher speeds & even tho you may be pulling close to optimum rpm,s the belt is slipping in the secondary.
 
Turk

The best racers in the world use a strait cut helix. A multi angle helix is a bandaid for poor clutching. If you can make the strait work it's really the best thing!!!!!
 
Terry, I looked back on these post to find your best run. It was on 6/21 and you ran 11.08 50ft=1.518 that was with the 52/44 helix set at 90 degrees. Do you remember what RPM you were running?...BBY
 
Matty

green spring, and a straight 47 helix.

1st run - 1.493 60ft. 6.847 1/8 11.062 @ 113.66mph. (set 80%)

Clutch temps are down to 110 on secondary, and 128 on primary. The only problem was my rpms went down to 9,400-9,500.



Matt look at this one!!!!! This was awsome!!!! All he need was RPMS and he was easyily in the 10's at 120 mph plus
 
Terry, easy solution here, go back to your previous best setup (straight 47 with green spring or the 52/44, they're pretty much identical). Now take out about 3 grams from each weight (take it out of the tip and middle). Like I said a while back, ride the torque for say the first 100' or so and slowly let it climb from 9900 or so up to about 10300, but no higher than that. We can discuss this more when you stop by my place tomorrow night!

"why did it drop mph when I ran in the 10,500-10,600 range?" you're over revving out of the power band, torque gets you 60' times and HP gets you MPH.
 
Hey BBY (Matt) - Rpms were close to 10,100-10,200 and when I switched to the 47 straight, it went down to 9,500 like J said. See you tonight.

Allen - See you tomorrow night.
 
Gearing

I was doing some calculations on gearing and I think you need to go back to 24/38 or 23/38 gearing. Here's what I came up with in my calculations, I did 5 different sets of gears. If I remember right you're using 22/38 so I highlighted that one.

23/40= 104 mph

22/38= 105 mph

23/39= 107 mph

23/38= 109.9 mph

24/38= 114.5 mph

So I would suggest going back to the 23 or 24/38 once you get your rpm's where you want them and I think you'll see a gain in mph, but those are just my thoughts :shock:
 
allen

At what RPM are those MPH rating's for?



plus shouldn't ET be are main concern?


terry: what MPH are you seeing on your speedo as you cross the traps???
 
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