att mono shock cable

[goldbergrx1]

would putting duck tape around the boot work?

 

[ReX]

Am I the only one who hasn't had this problem?..? (yet)

What have you guys been running for track tension?

My track is set to 1.1-1.2" of droop with 22 lbs at a window. There was a short period around 200 miles when it was as loose as 1.35" with 22 lbs (stretched), but I tightened it back to spec (1-1.2" of droop with 22 lbs).

 

[NOS-PRO]

After almost 1000 miles, mine is the same. I have also noticed a lot of ice being chewed up at the top of the tunnel, but didn't think it could reach the cable.

 

[goldbergrx1]

here the housing[/u]

i brought this too the top so guys can see pics

 

[Stormbringr1]

Mine was broke at 1000 km, and the sled sleep in the garage every night, is not effect the shock when it's broken, you have the last adjustment before it's broken. the best.

My boot tore and cable shredded after about 150 miles... It is my understanding that the shock defaults to its stiffest setting when the cable breaks.

Sooner or later...they all will break. It's a defective design...pure and simple.

 

[ReX]

It is my understanding that the shock defaults to its stiffest setting when the cable breaks.

It should stay set to your last setting if the cable breaks.

 

[RX-1MAN]

Mechanic just replaced my cable as it broke at around 1,000 miles. He didn't put the big boot on it. He put a small boot on each end of the cable after packing them with grease. Said he'd bet big money it will last along time compared to the original setup as no where for the ice to build up.. Time will tell.

 

[Superman]

A friend of mine says he has replaced his boot and has his track rubbing in the same location as shown in the bottom picture in this post. I still have not had a chance to crawl under mine but I am a little concerned.

 

[RX-Dave]

I have had the whole adjusting mechanisum apart on the shock and the adjuster. It will not default to any position.

All that is in there is a slotted screw, and the cable just turns a but that is mounted in the slot.

I had cut a hole in the bottom of my bott to just let the water drain out rather than build up and freeze in their.

My cable had pulled apart on the shock end when it origonally froze, but I was able to repair it by taking the fitting off, re-cutting the plastic, and re-building the cable. Kind of like putting co-ax cable together.

 

[MrSled]

There is not a default...there is a stop in the gear that will only let you adjust it so far. Thats why when you take it apart to go all hard on the adjuster and set the shock all hard on the clicker of the shock with a screw driver. If you dont there are more softer positions on the shock body then on the clicker and you may loose some of the harder adjustment in the RA.

 

[Stormbringr1]

I have had the whole adjusting mechanisum apart on the shock and the adjuster. It will not default to any position.

All that is in there is a slotted screw, and the cable just turns a but that is mounted in the slot.

I had cut a hole in the bottom of my bott to just let the water drain out rather than build up and freeze in their.

My cable had pulled apart on the shock end when it origonally froze, but I was able to repair it by taking the fitting off, re-cutting the plastic, and re-building the cable. Kind of like putting co-ax cable together.

There is not a default...there is a stop in the gear that will only let you adjust it so far. Thats why when you take it apart to go all hard on the adjuster and set the shock all hard on the clicker of the shock with a screw driver. If you dont there are more softer positions on the shock body then on the clicker and you may loose some of the harder adjustment in the RA.
_________________

Thanks guys. I stand corrected.

 

[RX-Dave]

I have had the RA adjuster apart yes.

What I was talking about is on the shock end. When they put the new shock in my sled, the adjuster on the shock had been clamped down so hard, all the cable did was twist around in a S, but no turn the shock.

Rather than start reefing, I took the mechanisum apart. All the cable turns is a little shaft that is square drive on one end, and a flat blade on the other. Underneath the adjuster on the shock, is the screw that actually adjusts the shock. I had to take the screw and un-snug it (it was VERY tight) now all is working freely.