Attak Overheat

[snomobubl]

I have a 2007 Attak GT and have had several overheat situations this season. There seems to be a common theme here. It only seems to happen when it is extremely cold out! I was out this year in MI and WI when the temp was -10 and -15 and the thing is overheating. Go figure!

I have checked my fluid levels and all is OK. I have also had it happen on some icy hard pack which is understandable. It has recently happened when running on groomed trails that have adequate loose snow on the surface. It is getting annoying as I have to stop wait as I dont want to burn down the sled.

I know that Yammi makes a rear exchanger but are there any other solutions? Anybody else having this issue?

 

[**sj**]

dilute your mixture to a 60/40 mix (distilled water)

 

[Iceman57]

Ice can form in front of the front heat exchanger and block the snow from reaching it. You need to check this area periodically and remove the ice if needed.

 

[HONDAFIXER]

Rear heat exchanger-cured!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[SNOW HO]

ICE SCRATCHERS...cheaper cure and extends slide life

 

[Shivesy]

I have to agree with you 100%. Like stated above dilute your fluid to 60% antifreeze and 40% water. I always pull over and add gobs of snow to the running boards when the light comes on. Something I noticed is that the light goes out faster if I pick up the spped and start running faster. Or if I'm runnibg fast the light never seems to come on. If I'm running through the trails around 20 to 30 mph for 10 min. or so the lights gonna be on for sure. Warmer snow seems to be better at cooling off the sled and colder frozen snow has less effect on keeping the machine cool.
I also read on another site to drill a 3/8 hole in the rear of the skis. If the snow conditions are bad reach in your batch of parts and grab those 2 3/8 bolts w/nuts that you now carry with you. Put them on your skis and now you have instant ice scratchers.
Most all this stuff listed in this post falls under the category of "Less than optimal snow conditions"

 

[Tycho998]

3 weeks ago I had the overheating problem. We had to run lakes with no snow. I was overheating every time we ran a lake. Last weekend we were running the same lakes that had no snow and I was not overheating. The only difference was that I dropped the preload on the rear shock to minimum. This lowered the snow flap to just above the ground keeping the little bit of snow dust there was in the tunnel. This solution is not as good as installing the rear exchanger but it is a fix that can be done on the trail. Also my new sliders lasted 2 weeks. Melted them to nothing. So as mentioned above the ice scratchers are also a good idea.

 

[**sj**]

I have to agree with you 100%. Like stated above dilute your fluid to 60% antifreeze and 40% water. I always pull over and add gobs of snow to the running boards when the light comes on. Something I noticed is that the light goes out faster if I pick up the spped and start running faster. Or if I'm runnibg fast the light never seems to come on. If I'm running through the trails around 20 to 30 mph for 10 min. or so the lights gonna be on for sure. Warmer snow seems to be better at cooling off the sled and colder frozen snow has less effect on keeping the machine cool.
I also read on another site to drill a 3/8 hole in the rear of the skis. If the snow conditions are bad reach in your batch of parts and grab those 2 3/8 bolts w/nuts that you now carry with you. Put them on your skis and now you have instant ice scratchers.
Most all this stuff listed in this post falls under the category of "Less than optimal snow conditions"

IM interested in seeing a pic of this....cant wrap my head around the details?>

 

[tuner]

Hondafixer was right, I installed one on mine and I run in all conditions and I don't over heat ever. Before the install it was a pain in the a@#.

 

[jlemieu1]

Two weeks ago I had the yellow warning light come on for me about 8 times riding on hardpack trails and ice roads at mid 20F. I just had my rear exchanger installed this week(I'm kicking my self for not buying it when Yami was selling it for around $100)

I will report my feedback from my ride this weekend when it will be upper 20 to lower 30F up in Grand Marias, MN.

 

[gitrdun]

My 07 Attak with rear heat exchanger runs at 75.6 degrees C which is 168 F almost all of the time. Fairly simple job to install, temperature only climbs if you let it idle for too long,... and an added bonus is the extra heat in the tunnel, keeps the ice from building up. Priceless!

 

[CaptCaper]

My 07 Attak with rear heat exchanger runs at 75.6 degrees C which is 168 F almost all of the time. Fairly simple job to install, temperature only climbs if you let it idle for too long,... and an added bonus is the extra heat in the tunnel, keeps the ice from building up. Priceless!

Mine has never over heated since my cooler install as well..but if you let it idle a few minutes it'll shut down for sure..

 

[whitedust1]

Happend Sunday to my 2007 Attak GT first time in over 4000 miles running about 85mph or so on RRB at about 5F & dropping. Plenty of snow for cooling, coolant level good took pressure cap off no pressure bleed & coolant was barely warm to my fingers. No overheating smell & no leaks. First time running 4 oz of water wetter in system. Restarted still overheat light. Shut back down waited a few minutes started back up light off took off rode final 50 miles of 300 mile day no overheating. First time but pain in butt & wondering why as well? Funny thing is had WOT run for about 20 miles 11/2 hrs before over heating at cruise at 85mph. I would think if overheating WOT for 20 miles would have done it. First time but don't like as sun was going down just enough light to check everything. Quirk or problem?

 

[attak-d]

Rear heat exchanger-cured!!!!!!!!!!!!

What He said!

 

[whitedust1]

Once in over 4000 miles & install rear heat exchanger? I don't know maybe the ice thing on front heat exchanger makes more sense. I do remember feeling a lag like ice fell off tunnel right before warning light came on. It was getting dark & could not see front exchanger but looked to see if coolant was leaking & no drips. How much for dealer installed rear heat exchanger?