Grunter
Extreme
I've busted my share of shafts over the years!
91 Exciter, 95 Vmax800 and the clutch side bearings recent design is not as tough as the old 60/22 or 62/22 etc.
Getting back to shafts - I've when I got my sprockets trued - I'd check the shaft as a matter of course..quite of few were not perfectly straight!
The worse one was 0.017" off - with a hard bend!
So these shafts are too weak, then bend - then eventually fail! It's like bending a wire - it will take a certain amount of cycles(or like someone else mentioned a certain amount of miles) then she'll let go...
Your best defence - is when you change your tracks - peel the sprockets off(or before you do - check them for trueness!) If not true determine if it's the shaft or the sprockets etc. Many times you can gain performance by taking the eccentricity out of the wheels and shaft..
If your shaft is bent - replace it before it breaks! But before you install it check it for trueness! I've seen some push past the reasonable limit. They should be within 0.002" for best performance! If they are close you can straighten it yourself if your comfortable doing this and have the experience or simply return it and ask for a good one...
For 100.00 while your changing a track - it's easy and cheap to check the axle and replace it if neccessary and will assure you get home as opposed to staying stranded!
91 Exciter, 95 Vmax800 and the clutch side bearings recent design is not as tough as the old 60/22 or 62/22 etc.
Getting back to shafts - I've when I got my sprockets trued - I'd check the shaft as a matter of course..quite of few were not perfectly straight!
The worse one was 0.017" off - with a hard bend!
So these shafts are too weak, then bend - then eventually fail! It's like bending a wire - it will take a certain amount of cycles(or like someone else mentioned a certain amount of miles) then she'll let go...
Your best defence - is when you change your tracks - peel the sprockets off(or before you do - check them for trueness!) If not true determine if it's the shaft or the sprockets etc. Many times you can gain performance by taking the eccentricity out of the wheels and shaft..
If your shaft is bent - replace it before it breaks! But before you install it check it for trueness! I've seen some push past the reasonable limit. They should be within 0.002" for best performance! If they are close you can straighten it yourself if your comfortable doing this and have the experience or simply return it and ask for a good one...
For 100.00 while your changing a track - it's easy and cheap to check the axle and replace it if neccessary and will assure you get home as opposed to staying stranded!
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I got the Micro Belmont shaft. I got the slightly thicker one as well which they told me the stock drivers would still press onto. It looks real good. Here is a picture of it next to the old broken shaft and a new set of drivers.
Gary at Micro-Belmont is top notch. Give him a call and he will take care of you.
www.micro-belmont.com
Gary at Micro-Belmont is top notch. Give him a call and he will take care of you.
www.micro-belmont.com
Attachments
rage man
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
nice price and how much stronger is ? what is it made out of and what is the old one made out or is it machined from one chunk of metal ?
just wondering
just wondering
mdkuni
TY 4 Stroke Guru
rage man said:
I believe the material it is made out of is microalloy? I do not know for sure what the stock material is but I am sure someone on here can answer that or give Gary a call at Micro Belmont. The shaft was $175. It is supposed to be alot stronger then the stock shaft according to Gary.
