jkrisiak
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I have seen many posting regarding RX machines backfiring. It seems there are two scenarios, one when the system is started and not choked properly, the other when the machine has been running for awhile for some reason the T.O.R.S (Throttle Override System) acts up.
I learned a fast lesson when I first ran my '03 RX-1. Never leave that choke wide open and do not touch the throttle. The machine loads up sputters and backfires if you do. Yamaha recommended kicking the choke down until your RPM reads around 1000-1500. Since then I have never had a problem.
Last weekend went up north with 3 RX-1's and one Apex. Having the knowledge my sled started without issue. The other 2 RX-1’s sputtered and backfired one the first start of the day. They claimed it was the T.O.R.S acting up, I disagreed. Similar thing with the Apex, no backfiring, the sled would not go over 3000 RPM. 2 RX-1's were full choke and the guys were hitting the throttle. I do not have a clue what the Apex guy did. Help me here so I can tell these guys they were wrong, or am I wrong?
I learned a fast lesson when I first ran my '03 RX-1. Never leave that choke wide open and do not touch the throttle. The machine loads up sputters and backfires if you do. Yamaha recommended kicking the choke down until your RPM reads around 1000-1500. Since then I have never had a problem.
Last weekend went up north with 3 RX-1's and one Apex. Having the knowledge my sled started without issue. The other 2 RX-1’s sputtered and backfired one the first start of the day. They claimed it was the T.O.R.S acting up, I disagreed. Similar thing with the Apex, no backfiring, the sled would not go over 3000 RPM. 2 RX-1's were full choke and the guys were hitting the throttle. I do not have a clue what the Apex guy did. Help me here so I can tell these guys they were wrong, or am I wrong?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
If they punch the throttle while its in cold-start mode, it WILL backfire. This is because the ignition will be retarded to prevent you from driving it cold (to prevent morons who want to punch the throttle cold from damaging the engine). The *effect* is the same as TORS, but it is NOT TORS. The reason it backfires is that the air/gas mixture will still be pumped through the engine, it just won't be ignited, so it will be sitting unburned in the exhaust pipe. Eventually it WILL ignite, and backfire.
jkrisiak
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LB, thanks for the reply.
What do I know right! I have only had my antique machine for 3 years.
What do I know right! I have only had my antique machine for 3 years.
Snowaddict
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adjusting TORS
I have been haunted by backfiring for the last 3 rides. I'm beginning to think I should never have put the filter kit on it. I couldn't get them to seat properly on the carbs and thought there was extra air getting in, therfore causing the backfire. I've tried tightening and thought I had it solved (it didn't backfire the last ride until the last 1/4 of the trip.) I also realized I'm supposed to have the special rings around the carbs to have the filter sit on properly. So, I just ordered a new one (had lost one, since I didn't put all of them on initially) and will put it on to try that. If that does not make a difference, I will assume it is the TORS. How do I adjust the throttle cable (assuming that's what needs to be done to keep the TORS from acting up?) I know there is a way to unplug it to bypass, but maybe shouldn't do that and just fix it. Or if I should just bypass, how exactly do I unplug and replug in the wires? If I remember correctly there are 2 wires in that area. Do I just unplug each and then replug them into themselves?
I have been haunted by backfiring for the last 3 rides. I'm beginning to think I should never have put the filter kit on it. I couldn't get them to seat properly on the carbs and thought there was extra air getting in, therfore causing the backfire. I've tried tightening and thought I had it solved (it didn't backfire the last ride until the last 1/4 of the trip.) I also realized I'm supposed to have the special rings around the carbs to have the filter sit on properly. So, I just ordered a new one (had lost one, since I didn't put all of them on initially) and will put it on to try that. If that does not make a difference, I will assume it is the TORS. How do I adjust the throttle cable (assuming that's what needs to be done to keep the TORS from acting up?) I know there is a way to unplug it to bypass, but maybe shouldn't do that and just fix it. Or if I should just bypass, how exactly do I unplug and replug in the wires? If I remember correctly there are 2 wires in that area. Do I just unplug each and then replug them into themselves?
yamahinn03
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Check in your sled manual it should be in there.
jkrisiak
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Unfortunately the manual is not going to be much help. Is there something specific you were talking yamahinn03 ?
Snowaddict
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manual
I agree the manual doesn't show much. It really doesn't give you a description of how to adjust the TORS or even which wires it is for that matter.
I agree the manual doesn't show much. It really doesn't give you a description of how to adjust the TORS or even which wires it is for that matter.
jkrisiak
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Bottom-line is... You can contact any credible dealer and they better be able to give you information on how to properly start your RX and how TORS works. My latest conversation with my dealer went like this. If the throttle is locked up, frozen, or the cable is kinked TORS kicks in - that’s that! The manual gives good details on how to check for proper operation.
The manual does show you the proper positioning of the choke – page 7.1
The issue with Apex sled sounds like TORS was activated. The actual throttle itself was locked not letting the sled go over the designated RPM.
The other guys, well lets see how many times they start there sleds and have issues before they listen to me – bleeping know it alls!
The manual does show you the proper positioning of the choke – page 7.1
The issue with Apex sled sounds like TORS was activated. The actual throttle itself was locked not letting the sled go over the designated RPM.
The other guys, well lets see how many times they start there sleds and have issues before they listen to me – bleeping know it alls!
yamahinn03
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Unfortunatley my sled is not here to look at but snowaddict was right on the money, unplug the wires and plug them into each other I had this problem on an 85 phazer.
Good luck hope it solves the problem.....
Good luck hope it solves the problem.....
jkrisiak
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Is that the best solution. Yamaha engineered TORS for a reason. I think it is strange that so many people have this problem. Does anyone know if Yamaha posted a fix for this problem?
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
If your lever switch is functional, your TPS is plugged in, and the cable is adjusted correctly, then TORS *will* work. There have been a LOT of reports of runaway sleds, and with TORS, that will never happen.
Podoll
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I had the same thing on my Rx-1 as that apex did. I started the sled let it run until the temp light quit flashing, and then when to ride, well the sled would rev to about 2800 or so and the sputter/backfire. The conclusion that i came to after expermenting a couple of times was that the engine isnt quite warm enough when the light stops flashing. If i let the sled run for another 5 minutes after the ligth stops flashing i can jump on and squeeze the flipper all i want.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
TORS Still Kickin' In
I thought I read that there are two levels of cold/rev protection.
First you have a rev limit until the light goes off. However, if I recall correctly, you still have to get to an even higher coolant temp to get past the second level of Rev Limit.
I guess I'll dig out the tech manual tonight and refresh my memory.
I thought I read that there are two levels of cold/rev protection.
First you have a rev limit until the light goes off. However, if I recall correctly, you still have to get to an even higher coolant temp to get past the second level of Rev Limit.
I guess I'll dig out the tech manual tonight and refresh my memory.
Snowaddict
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fingers crossed
I got under the hood again and with the divine wisdom of rhoag, found the problem may actually be something else. The #2 carb cap (that sits on top of the needle inside the spring) was not all of the way on and was sitting cocked inside the spring. Thanks to Rob or I would've probably never found this myself. I'll try 'er again this weekend and see what happens. If I still have problems I'll be checking out the TORS again. The new ring is installed around the carb and the filters are seated tightly. I've got my fingers crossed.
I got under the hood again and with the divine wisdom of rhoag, found the problem may actually be something else. The #2 carb cap (that sits on top of the needle inside the spring) was not all of the way on and was sitting cocked inside the spring. Thanks to Rob or I would've probably never found this myself. I'll try 'er again this weekend and see what happens. If I still have problems I'll be checking out the TORS again. The new ring is installed around the carb and the filters are seated tightly. I've got my fingers crossed.
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