fxnytrortxkid
TY 4 Stroke God
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Are these on your page yet? The small ones fit front of rail outside or inside? Inside I can see shock resivoir hitting, outside depending on how tall wheel is it may hit the front arm. Love to see some more though!Been working on some marginal wheel kits as some skids have areas prone to heavier wear. The kit will work with 2.75" wheels or 4.25" wheels. In addition I have it designed so it will work in areas of rail with large cut outs so it should be a very versatile kit that works in may spots on the rail. Hardware arrived this morning so hope to finalize that. In the process of determining recommend locations for them to be installed so I can verify clearance with arms during suspension bottom out.
I could use some feedback and photos from you guys with wear your heavy wear areas are. So far I have the following:
14-18 129" skid at front bend of rail
19+ 146" skid between bump stop and rear axle
14-18 xtx 141 skid at front bend of rail
View attachment 174511View attachment 174512View attachment 174513
Fast
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How about some 8.5" wheels for the backBeen working on some marginal wheel kits as some skids have areas prone to heavier wear. The kit will work with 2.75" wheels or 4.25" wheels. In addition I have it designed so it will work in areas of rail with large cut outs so it should be a very versatile kit that works in may spots on the rail. Hardware arrived this morning so hope to finalize that. In the process of determining recommend locations for them to be installed so I can verify clearance with arms during suspension bottom out.
I could use some feedback and photos from you guys with wear your heavy wear areas are. So far I have the following:
14-18 129" skid at front bend of rail
19+ 146" skid between bump stop and rear axle
14-18 xtx 141 skid at front bend of rail
View attachment 174511View attachment 174512View attachment 174513
hibshman25
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2018 snoscoot
No nothing ready to sell yet. Front bend is most likely going to require the smaller wheels due to front pivot arm clearance. Thinking the larger ones will work well back behind the bump stop.Are these on your page yet? The small ones fit front of rail outside or inside? Inside I can see shock resivoir hitting, outside depending on how tall wheel is it may hit the front arm. Love to see some more though!
hibshman25
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2018 snoscoot
Did some mock ups today on what would be the 14-18 137 rails. The 4.25" wheels will actually clear the front pivot arm so guys can take their pick which size wheel they want.
Also found a worn slide from a 16 ltx which shows the low spot right in front of the wheel. Wheel right in front of the existing wheel should do the trick!
Also found a worn slide from a 16 ltx which shows the low spot right in front of the wheel. Wheel right in front of the existing wheel should do the trick!
fxnytrortxkid
TY 4 Stroke God
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So in that last triangle the 4.5” will fit infront of the stock idler? Inboard or out?Did some mock ups today on what would be the 14-18 137 rails. The 4.25" wheels will actually clear the front pivot arm so guys can take their pick which size wheel they want.
Also found a worn slide from a 16 ltx which shows the low spot right in front of the wheel. Wheel right in front of the existing wheel should do the trick!
View attachment 174565View attachment 174564
Clintww
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I would be happy to be your first customer for a large wheel in the front location (your bottom picture is exactly my problem) Does your block have the milled grove large enough to fit over the curve of the rail? It is a very slight radius, but might be enough to cause a problem.
Fast
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Do you stock 8.5" wheels for the back?No nothing ready to sell yet. Front bend is most likely going to require the smaller wheels due to front pivot arm clearance. Thinking the larger ones will work well back behind the bump stop.
hibshman25
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The blocks have been machined to work on straight and curved portion of rail.I would be happy to be your first customer for a large wheel in the front location (your bottom picture is exactly my problem) Does your block have the milled grove large enough to fit over the curve of the rail? It is a very slight radius, but might be enough to cause a problem.
hibshman25
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Out board. I didn't even check inboard as studs will cause premature wear. I will take a look for you though. I realize some stud the outside but most do not. The 4.25 wheel would be perfect between the 2nd and 3rd triangle as there is material to drill 5/16" hole for the mounting bolt. This will be the preferred way to mount so it is pinned to rail. The clamp concept gives versatility in the event that there are cut outs where the wheel needs to go.So in that last triangle the 4.5” will fit infront of the stock idler? Inboard or out?
fxnytrortxkid
TY 4 Stroke God
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Perfect, I have ice age rails anyway so it may complicate. My hope was to keep weight off and help the cross shaft lol. I do stud everything so that some the issue lol. Maybe a 4 wheel kit! LolOut board. I didn't even check inboard as studs will cause premature wear. I will take a look for you though. I realize some stud the outside but most do not. The 4.25 wheel would be perfect between the 2nd and 3rd triangle as there is material to drill 5/16" hole for the mounting bolt. This will be the preferred way to mount so it is pinned to rail. The clamp concept gives versatility in the event that there are cut outs where the wheel needs to go.
Clintww
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How soon do you project to sell?The blocks have been machined to work on straight and curved portion of rail.
hibshman25
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I should have some kits ready to ship next week. Need to finalize hardware and pricing.How soon do you project to sell?
fxnytrortxkid
TY 4 Stroke God
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One thing I want to suggest (issue I have seen on mine often) the wheels can have some softness to them allowing them to compress around the bearing and pop the circlip then wheel comes off. There is ton of pressure at the front of rail and I tried the bdx cross shaft with wheels and those only lasted a few rides before wheels disintegrated. Granted I’m studded heavily so I can attest some to that. But my main concern is getting track pressure off just infront of cross shaft that the track drive lugs always seem to hit once hyfax wears slightly. So if compressive strength of wheel maybe important aswell as making a slightly tighter interference fit over bearingI should have some kits ready to ship next week. Need to finalize hardware and pricing.
1nc 2000
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Do you make a better replacement for the idler wheel mounts?
What i am seeing is the cast aluminum idler wheel mount will loosen up over time and wear down. The 6 mm bolt torqued and loctited and the mounts still shift around and begin wearing.
Most of the time it doesn't wear the rail much if caught in time.
What i am seeing is the cast aluminum idler wheel mount will loosen up over time and wear down. The 6 mm bolt torqued and loctited and the mounts still shift around and begin wearing.
Most of the time it doesn't wear the rail much if caught in time.
fxnytrortxkid
TY 4 Stroke God
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you Can get the rr mounts, however they are $30 each. And use 3/8 bolts. Or when you go off parts fishe I think it was 2016 they changed to this type from the rr style solid mount and 3/8 bolts. I believe it’s the kimpex version of the solid mounts are $12 each and then you just need the bolts.Do you make a better replacement for the idler wheel mounts?
What i am seeing is the cast aluminum idler wheel mount will loosen up over time and wear down. The 6 mm bolt torqued and loctited and the mounts still shift around and begin wearing.
Most of the time it doesn't wear the rail much if caught in time.
Last edited:
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