Belt deflection

[DMCTurbo]

Should the belt still be a 1/16th or so out of the driven clutch with the new roller setup? My belt is flush with the driven sheaves. Thanks

 

[Dieselxtx]

Yes 2 mm above if you look at the belt shape the top ribs are cut straight up that doesn't give you any more contact surface on the clutch if it is dropped down in or flush, set it right at the bottom of the ribs

 

[krm]

not going to happen ,my belt is tight and not to the top of the driven .

 

[AXR]

I remember a lot of the vipers with the jp sitting the same way.

 

[Dieselxtx]

has anyone verified the primary and secondary are cut to shift completely and if your belt is tight and not to the top you can run and 8dn with no problem and this will get it to the top the vipers had to be cut but Yamaha said primary was cut for overdrive but is the secondary on the sw cut overdrive?

 

[DMCTurbo]

Spoke with my mechanic who just returned from sidewinder school and he says they were very clear that the belt should be flush on the secondary

 

[krm]

Spoke with my mechanic who just returned from sidewinder school and he says they were very clear that the belt should be flush on the secondary

look when you get one .it's not going to happen with the stk belt .

 

[snowbeast]

we have the 8dn belt now on my ltx,cause it is a fully broken in belt,and the difference between the two as far as width and length is very small,now with two shims added to the secondary bolt,the belt is squeeling tight,after a couple pass;s.

 

[Rich Kay]

This issue has been a Yamaha thing for years now... I spend lots of time on clutch set -up and have found that the belt will be too tight and creep at idle too much as to drag idle down and make unessary heat in the primary clutch. First thing is to make sure your C/C distance is spot on as this can have a big effect on belt deflection alone, second of coarse is the secondary sheave adjustment but you will hardly ever see the belt above the sheaves if set-up is correct to get just a very small creep in a properly adjusted track while idling on a track stand. I have always felt yamaha makes there belts a little on the short side..... I will give ya a tip though... Try running a belt that is spec for a phazer sled as it tends to run slightly longer ( on average 1/4") I have one on my apex and it has helped with a bit more ride height in the secondary.It has also helped from testing to allow just bit more full shift ratio and cooler clutching ! This is "vested" time spent .....hope it helps.

 

[snowbeast]

This issue has been a Yamaha thing for years now... I spend lots of time on clutch set -up and have found that the belt will be too tight and creep at idle too much as to drag idle down and make unessary heat in the primary clutch. First thing is to make sure your C/C distance is spot on as this can have a big effect on belt deflection alone, second of coarse is the secondary sheave adjustment but you will hardly ever see the belt above the sheaves if set-up is correct to get just a very small creep in a properly adjusted track while idling on a track stand. I have always felt yamaha makes there belts a little on the short side..... I will give ya a tip though... Try running a belt that is spec for a phazer sled as it tends to run slightly longer ( on average 1/4") I have one on my apex and it has helped with a bit more ride height in the secondary.It has also helped from testing to allow just bit more full shift ratio and cooler clutching ! This is "vested" time spent .....hope it helps.

Thanks,i used to do a lot of time testing all sorts of belts,vlutches ect.but getting old has slowed me down,so now omce my sled is set up,gas and go.Today we may have been better off with the viper belt,sense it may not creep as much as the apex belt did,i was not at the track with grandson so just an observation from our little testing yesterday on grass with my son on sled. But derek my grandson still did fairly well considering they threw my LTX into opwn mod turbo class,and he got beat first round by a big thripple mod kitty,track was 400 feet,so if it had been 500 he said he was reeling him in by 2/3 track,we are not studded or set up very well,all we did was remove blocks,suck down limiters beyond all there settings the straps had,by redrilling a hole 2" further away,and taking out front shock preload on springs on shocks,so I did get it lowered a lot,but on a slippery clay launch pad,he did very well,turning a time of 5.53@91.2 mph in 400 feet is ok by me.

 

[DMCTurbo]

Thanks,i used to do a lot of time testing all sorts of belts,vlutches ect.but getting old has slowed me down,so now omce my sled is set up,gas and go.Today we may have been better off with the viper belt,sense it may not creep as much as the apex belt did,i was not at the track with grandson so just an observation from our little testing yesterday on grass with my son on sled. But derek my grandson still did fairly well considering they threw my LTX into opwn mod turbo class,and he got beat first round by a big thripple mod kitty,track was 400 feet,so if it had been 500 he said he was reeling him in by 2/3 track,we are not studded or set up very well,all we did was remove blocks,suck down limiters beyond all there settings the straps had,by redrilling a hole 2" further away,and taking out front shock preload on springs on shocks,so I did get it lowered a lot,but on a slippery clay launch pad,he did very well,turning a time of 5.53@91.2 mph in 400 feet is ok by me.

You can remove the blocks without coming in contact with the rear idlers?

 

[snowbeast]

You can remove the blocks without coming in contact with the rear idlers?

Yes!

 

[DMCTurbo]

look when you get one .it's not going to happen with the stk belt .

Mine sits flush in the secondary.

 

[Viper4life]

checked mine today after 105 miles and it sits flush as well.

 

[fatchance]

^^^^^Don't worry it will drop lower as the belt wears. That belt dust is there for a reason.