Belt deflection

[Fleecer]

Mine sits flush in the secondary.

Don't run higher/tighter than top of sheave. Running tight creates drag when shifting to/from reverse and will strip top gears in chaincase.

I have always run tight deflection for max take off. Few weeks ago without knowing, sled did not fully shift into forward and mile later popped out and stripped gears. Had to walk home -15F.

Now I run belt flush with top of sheaves and have not noticed any performance loss. Too risky running any higher.

Lastly, the reverse setup on this sled sucks. The bad luck i experienced has scarred me and now I only use reverse if I'm dying!! Lol

 

[Brian Friebel]

Spoke with my mechanic who just returned from sidewinder school and he says they were very clear that the belt should be flush on the secondary

My belt is flush right now. When i put it in reverse and gas it you can smell the belt burning. Flush on my sled seems to be too loose

 

[GlennM]

Mine alway ran flush, stock belt, 3200 km

 

[Fast]

Spoke with my mechanic who just returned from sidewinder school and he says they were very clear that the belt should be flush on the secondary

1 to 2mm above secondary for best results

 

[fourload]

Flush like mine with the JP belt seems fine. Anything tighter could make it hard for reverse like Fleecer says.

 

[Crossfire12]

Why doesn’t anybody follow manual? Lay straight edge from primary to secondary push down on belt in middle and measure, set it to spec ! Belts are different lengths.

 

[titanrcr]

Why doesn’t anybody follow manual? Lay straight edge from primary to secondary push down on belt in middle and measure, set it to spec ! Belts are different lengths.[/

Great Idea, Set the belt deflection by actually measuring the belt deflection...Go figure !!

 

[1nc 2000]

Why doesn’t anybody follow manual? Lay straight edge from primary to secondary push down on belt in middle and measure, set it to spec ! Belts are different lengths.

The Yamaha owners manual does not show that method. It gives range of belt height in secondary. Maybe your cat manual is different.

 

[ROCKERDAN]

Always my entire life set deflection like this......

Warm up track/belt on stand.....

Tighten deflection until warm track starts to rotate, and back off just a tad.

You basically want a warm track at idle on a stand, to be able to easily move with finger.

So its just a tad below rotating on its own.

This gives you tightest possible deflection without belt being rubbed too hard, I tend to back these winders off just a tad more as I want to allow the push button reverse to mesh easily.

Any other method will never work as mentioned due to belt variances. Even if a belt sits flush, it wont after 500 miles as its dimensions have changed.

Dan

 

[4strokes]

Don't run higher/tighter than top of sheave. Running tight creates drag when shifting to/from reverse and will strip top gears in chaincase.

I have always run tight deflection for max take off. Few weeks ago without knowing, sled did not fully shift into forward and mile later popped out and stripped gears. Had to walk home -15F.

Now I run belt flush with top of sheaves and have not noticed any performance loss. Too risky running any higher.

Lastly, the reverse setup on this sled sucks. The bad luck i experienced has scarred me and now I only use reverse if I'm dying!! Lol

I second this. I also always liked a tight belt. played around with it a bit on phazers. has to be loose for the stupid push button to work...

 

[Crossfire12]

No it’s common to measure ,if you try it ,it will work.