belt question

[Turk]

If your in deep snow run a shallow helix & make sure sled is in the sweet spot at 86-8800 rpm. 2 things will kill a belt quick
underrevving in deep snow & a real steep helix.
I gotta hit 92-9300 rpm on hardpack to hit 8700 rpm in real deep pow.

 

[thefin]

If your in deep snow run a shallow helix & make sure sled is in the sweet spot at 86-8800 rpm. 2 things will kill a belt quick
underrevving in deep snow & a real steep helix.
I gotta hit 92-9300 rpm on hardpack to hit 8700 rpm in real deep pow.

yes turk i am right around 8700 in the snow we have adjusted clutching for this reason

 

[Mtnviper]

If your running high loads (wide open throttle) at slower speeds. Gearing down will make a huge difference in belt life.
Allows the clutching to be more effecient and lower belt temps.

 

[..SNAKEBIT..]

I agree with Mtnviper are you running the stock gears in the RTX? if so I would gear down
you talk about deep snow did you swap tracks to a deeper lug witch would also like the gear down JMO

 

[thefin]

yes they are stock gears and yes i put a 1.625 track on it my question now would be if i drop 1 tooth on top will that be sufficient i dont want to loose anymore top end i only run about 90mph now and bye the way i appreciate all your guys help

 

[thefin]

If your in deep snow run a shallow helix & make sure sled is in the sweet spot at 86-8800 rpm. 2 things will kill a belt quick
underrevving in deep snow & a real steep helix.
I gotta hit 92-9300 rpm on hardpack to hit 8700 rpm in real deep pow.

yes turk i am right around 8700 in the snow we have adjusted clutching for this reason

which helix do you recomend mabey i should look at the shockwave???

 

[thefin]

If your in deep snow run a shallow helix & make sure sled is in the sweet spot at 86-8800 rpm. 2 things will kill a belt quick
underrevving in deep snow & a real steep helix.
I gotta hit 92-9300 rpm on hardpack to hit 8700 rpm in real deep pow.

yes turk i am right around 8700 in the snow we have adjusted clutching for this reason

which helix do you recomend mabey i should look at the shockwave???

i was trying two the straight 43 and a 46/40 dalton

 

[pwa]

If your in deep snow run a shallow helix & make sure sled is in the sweet spot at 86-8800 rpm. 2 things will kill a belt quick
underrevving in deep snow & a real steep helix.
I gotta hit 92-9300 rpm on hardpack to hit 8700 rpm in real deep pow.

yes turk i am right around 8700 in the snow we have adjusted clutching for this reason

which helix do you recomend mabey i should look at the shockwave???

i was trying two the straight 43 and a 46/40 dalton

If the clutch is aligned right I'm with turk. Gear down, more weight in the primary and lower helix angle.

 

[rlcofmn]

I have blown 3 belts on my MTX this year in 600 miles. Run in deep snow and WOT will little to no cool down time. Also I Just take them out of the store put them on and ride them no break in or anything. Will probably drop down to 19 40 to try to help on the really deep days. I also Am going to get it sealed up better cause I do get the belt wet from time to time either in the deep stuff or skipping water. That will help as well. Still alot of winter yet I'll post what I find that helps.

 

[Simmering25355]

I`m on my second belt first one held 2450km

 

[akvector]

I have blown 3 belts on my MTX this year in 600 miles. Run in deep snow and WOT will little to no cool down time. Also I Just take them out of the store put them on and ride them no break in or anything. Will probably drop down to 19 40 to try to help on the really deep days. I also Am going to get it sealed up better cause I do get the belt wet from time to time either in the deep stuff or skipping water. That will help as well. Still alot of winter yet I'll post what I find that helps.

I am still on my first belt 900 miles. I do not really pull any climbs i am more of the rolling hills and deep snow kinda guy.

I have my secondary at 6-3 and 20-40 gears.
I agree need some screens and prefilter

 

[NYTRORYDERAK]

1420 miles and on belt #3. Both belts blowing was probably my fault . (Did not let them cool down after pow riding) The stock belt is super hard and willl eat up your clutch faces if your not carefull. I am now using the XS. We will see how it works.

Well the XS lasted two days. I broke it in and washed it but i was pretty hard on it. Deep pow riding, warm temps 25-30F and not much cool down so It was probably my fault. i am going to try another one. I also have to still fine tune my clutching. I am still not quite pulling the rr's I should. Its close ) about 8500 in the DEEP) So i will drop a little off the primary and try that.

 

[akvector]

[


Well the XS lasted two days. I broke it in and washed it but i was pretty hard on it. Deep pow riding, warm temps 25-30F and not much cool down so It was probably my fault. i am going to try another one. I also have to still fine tune my clutching. I am still not quite pulling the rr's I should. Its close ) about 8500 in the DEEP) So i will drop a little off the primary and try that.

where is the deep Pow??? It seems that the 4 strokes are a little more finicky when it comes to belts. My experience is that the yamaha belt likes a tight wind with the secondary. The ultimax belt is softer and does not require the wind.

This is what it took for me to solve the belt issue on my old vector. I had alot of belt issues from the get go with it and a stock belt would only make 50-100 miles max. I changed the primary rollers to the smaller roller 14.5 which equals more force from the primary/grip so the belt would not slip there anymore. In turn my rpms dropped so i drilled the rivets out and ran with an empty weight. the secondary had the hartman multi angle helix and ran at 6-2 with the dayco ultimax 3 belt. I have yet to change the belt since the changes.

i think alot of the problem with the nytro is that belt slips in the primary there for you get a lot of heat. Next year i will be changing rollers and i will be adding a header and muffler so hopefully that will balance the rpms.

 

[fiddlersgreen]

4300kms on first stock belt and still looks like new.

Not a lot of powder or hard climbing for me, just a lot of long distance rides.
I guess thats the reason for the long belt life.

 

[philsummers21]

I only change belts at the beginning of the year just cause. Clutches run cool and are pretty much spot on. Ride deep pow and long hard climbs and i don't give my sled time to rest.