Best way to drain and refill 08 Vector coolant?

Irv

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2008 40th Anniversary Vector.
1995 XLT SP (Son's)
Hoping to get around soon to installing my used rear heat exchanger that I purchased and was wondering what is the best approach to draining and refilling my 08 non radded carbed Vector?

I am thinking the best place to remove the coolant hose is on the left side under the secondary clutch?
I plan on removing the overflow cap to assist with draining as well. Anything else I should do help with removing the old coolant?

I also assume there is a bleeder bolt on the stock crossover pipe, do I need to remove that one as well?

When refilling with my new 60/40 antifreeze mix, is it a good idea to raise the front of the sled up to help remove the air?

I also have to cut a small section of the rear tunnel out in order for the new cooler to fit, what is the best way to go about this, Dremmel tool, small coping saw or a file?

All tips/suggestions would be greatly appreciated ;)!
 
Irv said:
Hoping to get around soon to installing my used rear heat exchanger that I purchased and was wondering what is the best approach to draining and refilling my 08 non radded carbed Vector?

I am thinking the best place to remove the coolant hose is on the left side under the secondary clutch?
I plan on removing the overflow cap to assist with draining as well. Anything else I should do help with removing the old coolant?

I also assume there is a bleeder bolt on the stock crossover pipe, do I need to remove that one as well?

When refilling with my new 60/40 antifreeze mix, is it a good idea to raise the front of the sled up to help remove the air?

I also have to cut a small section of the rear tunnel out in order for the new cooler to fit, what is the best way to go about this, Dremmel tool, small coping saw or a file?

All tips/suggestions would be greatly appreciated ;)!


Shopvac to get the old out nice and clean. I used a dremmel to cut the rear for the added cooler. You want to left the back of the sled as high as you can with the bleeder out.
 
kinger said:
Where do you put the shop vac hose to suck it out?

X 2
 
I've been putting it over the bottle and pinch off the over flow tube and pull out a about 80% of the coolent.
 
What about draining what you can and then flush the system with water until it is relatively clear?
 
BombaPolaYama said:
What about draining what you can and then flush the system with water until it is relatively clear?

Not a bad suggestion but I would rather have some left over anitfreeze in there than just straight water in case I can't get it completely emptied out?

I forget what the amount is that my sled takes right now but I will measure the old fluid when I think I have it all out just to make sure I do.


Any tips on cutting the rear part of my tunnel? I only need about 2" inches I believe to get the new one in there?
Also, is the rear bleeder accessible once I have all the rear bezels, exhaust cover etc off?
 
An angle grinder with a thin cutting wheel works good but for a small area it may not be the best thing to use because of the difficulty of manoeuvreing it and stopping the cut right where you want. I have used the Dremel but they are slower and the little cutting discs break quite easily.
 
Irv said:
BombaPolaYama said:
What about draining what you can and then flush the system with water until it is relatively clear?

Not a bad suggestion but I would rather have some left over anitfreeze in there than just straight water in case I can't get it completely emptied out?

I forget what the amount is that my sled takes right now but I will measure the old fluid when I think I have it all out just to make sure I do.


Any tips on cutting the rear part of my tunnel? I only need about 2" inches I believe to get the new one in there?
Also, is the rear bleeder accessible once I have all the rear bezels, exhaust cover etc off?

I used a broken hack saw blade, the aluminum is easy to cut, 2 seconds and your done. Beside you don't have much room to work with when doing it from inside the tunnel. Once your done and have heat exchanger in place bent the aluminum back in place and chalk the cut line. See RockerDan post.
Kaz

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=38049
 
Kaz said:
Irv said:
BombaPolaYama said:
What about draining what you can and then flush the system with water until it is relatively clear?

Not a bad suggestion but I would rather have some left over anitfreeze in there than just straight water in case I can't get it completely emptied out?

I forget what the amount is that my sled takes right now but I will measure the old fluid when I think I have it all out just to make sure I do.


Any tips on cutting the rear part of my tunnel? I only need about 2" inches I believe to get the new one in there?
Also, is the rear bleeder accessible once I have all the rear bezels, exhaust cover etc off?

I used a broken hack saw blade, the aluminum is easy to cut, 2 seconds and your done. Beside you don't have much room to work with when doing it from inside the tunnel. Once your done and have heat exchanger in place bent the aluminum back in place and chalk the cut line. See RockerDan post.
Kaz

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=38049
Thanks Kaz, I was hoping there was an existing post with info and pics kicking around.

;)!
 


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