QCRider
TY 4 Stroke Master
Ok guys I pulled an all time boner a couple of weeks ago. Here's the story. Doing the first oil change on my Mom's Vector, as is typical of Yamaha four strokes the filter was an absolute bear to get off the sled. Might be nice if they applied a little oil to the O-Rings when they assembled them huh? Anyway, finally got the filter off the sled, put some oil on the new filter's O-ring and installed it. Tightened it up nice and snug by hand like I have done at least 5 other times on Rx-1s and Vectors. Drained the tank, put the plug back in there nice and snug and filled it up. Ran the sled, sounded good, looked good. We put it on the trailer and didn't really run it again until this past weekend. Then the bad news....
10 miles into the ride all of the oil was gone and the motor started knocking badly. Sounds pretty much like a new crank and at least one rod. WTF? No low oil light either.
Turns out that the O-Ring from the original filter was still on the motor when the filter came off. (again I say it would be nice if they put a little oil on it) My fault all the way for not checking it before I put the new one on. I could come up with a million excuses, the easiet of which is that I have never seen this before, but still my fault. The two O-rings didn't seal and all the oil leaked out. What bothers me is that there was no low oil light. We would have certainly stopped and put oil in it if the light came on. Then when we had to keep doing this we would have looked for leaks. But no light, so she just drove it until it was all gone
So, the dealer said as a quick guess it would be around $3,000 US to fix it if he did all the work. I'm thinking that we (my Dad and I) could at least get the motor out of the sled and put it back in if they do the internal engine work, and the dealer did say he would cut us a deal on parts. How big a deal would it be and what special tools would be required for us to do all of the work? Or would we be better off to let them do the real technical stuff?
Anyway, I thought I would post this as a warning to others to always check that the stupid O-ring comes off with the old filter when you change your oil. ESPECIALLY the first time.
10 miles into the ride all of the oil was gone and the motor started knocking badly. Sounds pretty much like a new crank and at least one rod. WTF? No low oil light either.
Turns out that the O-Ring from the original filter was still on the motor when the filter came off. (again I say it would be nice if they put a little oil on it) My fault all the way for not checking it before I put the new one on. I could come up with a million excuses, the easiet of which is that I have never seen this before, but still my fault. The two O-rings didn't seal and all the oil leaked out. What bothers me is that there was no low oil light. We would have certainly stopped and put oil in it if the light came on. Then when we had to keep doing this we would have looked for leaks. But no light, so she just drove it until it was all gone
So, the dealer said as a quick guess it would be around $3,000 US to fix it if he did all the work. I'm thinking that we (my Dad and I) could at least get the motor out of the sled and put it back in if they do the internal engine work, and the dealer did say he would cut us a deal on parts. How big a deal would it be and what special tools would be required for us to do all of the work? Or would we be better off to let them do the real technical stuff?
Anyway, I thought I would post this as a warning to others to always check that the stupid O-ring comes off with the old filter when you change your oil. ESPECIALLY the first time.
RSVECTORFREAK
Lifetime Member
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- Snowmobile
- 2005 RS Vector ER
Ouch that hurts! I don't even bother changing mine myself anymore, for the $90 that I got charged last time I think it's easier to let them do it. I am wondering why no light came on???? I have been lazy in checking my oil level thinking that if all else fails a light will warn me. Guess I better not take that apporach anymore. Sorry to hear it.
Oak Hill
VIP Member
Like most vehicles, when the light comes on it is to late. Always, always wipe the oil filter mating surface off and check for leaks after start up. I have seen this many of times over the years, 29 years in dealerships. This is a costly lesson but one lesson you will never forget. It hurts!!!!
QCRider
TY 4 Stroke Master
Oak Hill said:Like most vehicles, when the light comes on it is to late.
That's not true with these sleds. The tank is a reservoir, and when the light comes on you have time to fill it. It's not an oil pressure light like a car in which it IS too late.
Groomerdriver
TY 4 Stroke Master
I know this doesnt help but I'm VERY SORRY to hear this has happened to you QC. There was another post just like this waht...last week? If memory serves the guys dealer did the oil change and the dealer also didnt pull the old o-ring off.
I too need to at least check the reservoir level more often.
I too need to at least check the reservoir level more often.
twomorestrokes
TY 4 Stroke God
Ouch. Sorry QC. Been there, done that. Many years ago when I was a mechanic at the Ford dealer I double gasketed a Mustang and it was fine until she got it out on the expressway. Since then, I always lube up the new o ring by touching it against the old one on the old filter to make sure it came off the block. I learned the hard way too.
Oak Hill
VIP Member
QCRider - you are correct on the sled, my mistake. Stuck in the car syndrome.
towing
Expert
it really suck......
I hope that everybody that do their own maintenance will see your post to avoid this problem :ORC
I did my oil change last week and had exactly the same problem, the filter was hard to remove and the seal stay stick on the motor base. Because i had the chance to read about this before (maybe here i think ) i had check on the old filter and see that the seal was missing.... and was on the motor base.
Unfortunately, putting oil on the new filter gasket does not guarantee that it will not stick at the motor base because i always do it and had the problem.....
I'm really sorry to what happened to you QCRider Thank you for sharing this with us, it will for sure save problems and big bucks to someone
Good luck
Alain
I hope that everybody that do their own maintenance will see your post to avoid this problem :ORC
I did my oil change last week and had exactly the same problem, the filter was hard to remove and the seal stay stick on the motor base. Because i had the chance to read about this before (maybe here i think ) i had check on the old filter and see that the seal was missing.... and was on the motor base.
Unfortunately, putting oil on the new filter gasket does not guarantee that it will not stick at the motor base because i always do it and had the problem.....
I'm really sorry to what happened to you QCRider Thank you for sharing this with us, it will for sure save problems and big bucks to someone
Good luck
Alain
MadMax
TY 4 Stroke Master
On a earlier post about my first oil change... I noted to make sure the old "O" ring was off before putting the new one on....... I know mine did it.. Sounds like a problem we need to note on the FAQ section............. MM.
Duane
Veteran
OK guys, I'm QCRider's dad and it was my wifes Vector that wound up with the serious rattles. When she first heard it she looked at the speedo to check her speed and then STOPPED instantly. She swears there was no oil light on at that point. She told me it was making unhappy sounds so I told her to ride my RX-1 and I'd ride hers. I started it while standing up on it....WHOA BABY!!! I looked at the warning lights - NONE on and shut it down!! checked the oil - just vapors rising out of the reservoir. My point is, as QC said "this was our fault" but if the damn warning light had functioned properly we may not be facing the repair costs that we are now. You just may want to do some checking on your own warning system.
Sled Dog
Lifetime Member
Wow that sucks! Sorry to hear of the problem but thanks for letting us all know of a potential disastrous and yet simple oversight.
Duane
Veteran
P.S. Thank God for income tax returns lol
Yikes Mr QC that is 2 motors in one week on this forum for the same exact problem. Sorry to hear it.
If they do it does it come with complete warranty. That is what I would shoot for. Do what give you the best piece of mind. Guess how you feel right now that would help. I suppose your Mom might agree with that unless money is tight.
Best of luck.
If they do it does it come with complete warranty. That is what I would shoot for. Do what give you the best piece of mind. Guess how you feel right now that would help. I suppose your Mom might agree with that unless money is tight.
Best of luck.
Bob Miller
TY 4 Stroke Master
- Joined
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- Present Sled: 2011 Yamaha Apex 128
QC,
Sorry to hear about this! Just curious, what kind of oil did you use? From what I understand about FULL Synthetic OIL, if you lose oil pressure, or if the engine overheats, the coating that the Synthetic oil has put on the internals of the engine will help it survive a bit longer.
As far as rebuilding the engine yourself, You Can Do It If You Are Determined You will need some special tools as described in the Service Manual, time and patience. 8)
Sorry to hear about this! Just curious, what kind of oil did you use? From what I understand about FULL Synthetic OIL, if you lose oil pressure, or if the engine overheats, the coating that the Synthetic oil has put on the internals of the engine will help it survive a bit longer.
As far as rebuilding the engine yourself, You Can Do It If You Are Determined You will need some special tools as described in the Service Manual, time and patience. 8)
towing
Expert
Duane said:OK guys, I'm QCRider's dad and it was my wifes Vector that wound up with the serious rattles. When she first heard it she looked at the speedo to check her speed and then STOPPED instantly. She swears there was no oil light on at that point. She told me it was making unhappy sounds so I told her to ride my RX-1 and I'd ride hers. I started it while standing up on it....WHOA BABY!!! I looked at the warning lights - NONE on and shut it down!! checked the oil - just vapors rising out of the reservoir. My point is, as QC said "this was our fault" but if the damn warning light had functioned properly we may not be facing the repair costs that we are now. You just may want to do some checking on your own warning system.
A bud of mine had a trouble last year on his first ride with his 2005 Vector. The dealer had forgot to plug back the little black hose under the right side of filter box. The other end of the hose goes directly to the crankcase. After few miles, the warning light came on. He stopped and checked and realised that the oil bottle was near than empty and the oil was spilled in the bottom of the cab.
The light had acted enought soon his case to avoid any damage and his machine is still running good now. It's really bad that's yours had not came on.....
I wonder what's happened if the light is already on because of low fuel condition ??? Maybe the LCD display will show the oil icon but not sure that someone will remarked it ......
Bye
Alain
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