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Blew a set of plugs already???


aVenture said:
rodeo9119 was probably refering of the two vacuum lines from the carbs that activate the 2 fuel pumps.. so that leaves a free tap on the third carb which is plugged... really, output of the pumps goes underneat to the carb's fuel rail. ..rodeo, if you get fuel there, call 911.

Thanks for the info aVenture. ;)!
 
Fuel Lines.

Yes, Obviously you don't want fuel in your vacuum lines, that wasn't what I was referring too. Either way, say what you wish about what I said... but I'm not the one needing to replace my plugs at approximately $15- $20.00 a pop. By the way, yes you can run your machine up to 15 minutes without overheating even in mid-summer. Just not if you have a brand spanking new machine that isn't broken in yet...that would be stupid. But merely idling for 15 minutes and Rx-1 or Vector will not over-heat!
However, I'm sure you know much more than me...that's why you are the one making rookie mistakes of fouling plugs.
:ORC
 
What is your deal rodeo??? Two posts now and this one is as obnoxious as the last. You definitely stated "Your fuel lines only run to two of the cylinders and the third one is plugged". No big deal. Maybe even you make a mistake once in awhile. You may get welcomed aboard if you ever have anything constructive to add, but so far, I'm wondering what ever atracted you to this forum full of "stupid rookie" idiots. Personally, I'm getting tired of reading your pot shots at me and the other TY members.

Get your own :ORC
 
This site is supposed to be for CONSTRUCTIVE input. Not everyone can be a great mechanic and understand all the workings of an internal combustion engine.... Some of us might proclaim to be experts, but we can all learn from each other without degrading some one else....
Lets keep it positive Like the others have said........ :ORC
 
Until this week I never thought ( in fact i would have bet money you couldn't) that you could foul a plug(s) on a 4 stroke but My Vector proved me wrong!

Thanks to this post and this site I saved myself the aggravation of lifting my dead sled onto the trailer and taking it to my dealer for 3 spark plugs and a 60.00 bill for labour.


:rocks:
 
Blue Giant said:
Thanks to this post and this site I saved myself the aggravation of lifting my dead sled onto the trailer and taking it to my dealer for 3 spark plugs and a 60.00 bill for labour.


:rocks:

Excellent! Glad to hear a couple folks found this thread helpful. That's what it's all about!
 
ON A DIFFERENT NOTE

Well, on a different note. We may not need to be garage bound too much longer. A lot of areas are getting snow and 1st sled trips right around the corner! I have a 200 mile alnight sled tripped planned in just over a week and a half, pending conditions hold. :4STroke: :Rockon:

Anyone else have trips planned?
 
previous sled

BTW, 06VECTORGT, no build up anger here.... Believe it or not, only other sleds I've own were 1979 JDeere Trailfire 440, was a good sled for the time, and also a 1979 Yamaha Excel V, which I still own in cherry condition and still runs like a true Yamaha. Never would touch a Cat or ski Doo.
 
:yam:

Just one other thing. If you really flood out your machine you might want to change your oil. Back in the days of carburetors on cars I spent many an hour changing plugs then oil on flooded engines. In many cases the Oil Pressure light came on because the oil got thinned from too much gas in it.

Also running your engine for short time then shutting her down isn't real great either you are thinning the oil. We all get the itch to hear it running but don't do it too often. You can actually pull your dipstick sometimes and smell the gas.

Case in point: MB and BMW put Mobil 1 or Castrol synthetic in their cars. Oil change interval is 15K and warn you not to warm your engine. If you warm it then change interval goes way down because you are thinning that oil.

Simple point is run it alot without riding then shorten your oil change interval. Smell your oil if you flood it out bad. If it has a heavy gas smell then you might want to change it.
 
PAMikeC said:
:yam:

Just one other thing. If you really flood out your machine you might want to change your oil. Back in the days of carburetors on cars I spent many an hour changing plugs then oil on flooded engines. In many cases the Oil Pressure light came on because the oil got thinned from too much gas in it.

Also running your engine for short time then shutting her down isn't real great either you are thinning the oil. We all get the itch to hear it running but don't do it too often. You can actually pull your dipstick sometimes and smell the gas.

Case in point: MB and BMW put Mobil 1 or Castrol synthetic in their cars. Oil change interval is 15K and warn you not to warm your engine. If you warm it then change interval goes way down because you are thinning that oil.

Simple point is run it alot without riding then shorten your oil change interval. Smell your oil if you flood it out bad. If it has a heavy gas smell then you might want to change it.

That's a great point!

After I changed my plugs the first thing I did before starting it was to smell the oil for any trace of a gasoline smell. When I was kid and worked at a car dealership, many a cold morning we would drag in flooded cars and the dipstick would show the oil level to be up a quart!
 
PAMikeC said:
:yam:

Just one other thing. If you really flood out your machine you might want to change your oil. Back in the days of carburetors on cars I spent many an hour changing plugs then oil on flooded engines. In many cases the Oil Pressure light came on because the oil got thinned from too much gas in it.

Good point. I have also changed a lot of oil at the car dealerships after repairing a flooded out engine. It's amazing how much fuel you can dump into the crankcase trying to start a flooded engine. I've also seen oil lights flicker after a good flooding.

Not sure if I agree about the warming up part though. I think that just shortens your intervals due to more run time on the engine that doesn't show up on the odometer as miles. I know folks that warm their car up for 25 minutes befor their 7 minute drive to work. :|
 
I ran stock plugs last year without a problem but switched to cr10ek's it's worth 2.2hp on the dyno.
 
pro116 said:
I ran stock plugs last year without a problem but switched to cr10ek's it's worth 2.2hp on the dyno.
Isn't a CR10 a colder plug?
The o6 vector calls for a CR8E....
Checked out some information and I amgoing to run the CR8EIX...
This is the performance plug with Iridium electrode.........
This is supposed to give an increase in power and better mileage....
 


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