Broken y pipe in fx nytro

WD-40 not the best I found PB Blaster or kroil works best for breaking stubburn nuts and bolts.

Read this from Popular Mechanics website,

Breaking the corrosion on a recalcitrant nut is an ego-rattling job (for step-by-step directions, click here) that requires not a lubricant but a penetrating fluid—a very low-viscosity oil. There are a lot of good products to choose from—Kano Kroil, Liquid Wrench, CRC Freeze-Off, BG In-Force—but Bob Cornwell, ASE manager of Medium and Heavy Vehicle Test Development, and a guy who knows oil like Inuits know snow, recommends PB Blaster over everything else, including WD-40.


PB Blaster is mostly naphtha and petroleum oil and has a preternatural ability to insinuate its way into minuscule spaces. For best results, apply once with care, wait 10 minutes, then apply and wait again before attempting removal.


Best of luck,

Pete
 
Best penetrating oil by far is new/used ATF and Acetone, 50/50 mix, lab proven removal force was 1/10th of wd, 1/4 of kroil and PB. Soak it 2 times before you try to remove it.
 
nydiver said:
Best penetrating oil by far is new/used ATF and Acetone, 50/50 mix, lab proven removal force was 1/10th of wd, 1/4 of kroil and PB. Soak it 2 times before you try to remove it.
Click to expand...
Gonna give it a try. How long should I soak it for each time?

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
 
Let it work for at least an hour, the acetone thins and gets the ATF to creep into the threads, then it evaporates and the ATF goes to work chewing on the oxidation. You want to keep it wet if you can so it hit every 10 minutes or so with a few squirts, do that 5 or 6 times, let it set overnight, then hit it again a few times. Put a punch on the head of the bolt and whack it to vibrate the bolt, that helps it creep even deeper in. Sometimes its easier if you heat up the bolt also by running the engine. Just trying to help you have the best luck of getting that thing out.
 
Nydriver this solution is insane. I put it on and in ten minutes it loosened it up enough to get it off. Also I switched from a 12 point socket to a six point which stopped the slippage!

Thx for the formula!

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
 
An old boss used the stuff religiously, mixing atf and kero until we tried laquer thinner, then lucked onto the acetone mixture. Glad it all worked out for you.
 
Yup in one of the ( links) I sent you above it mentioned the home brew mix of ATF and Acetone. I have just had really good luck with the PB blaster and it was rated the most effective. Glad it worked out for you I know what a pain it is when a bolt won't come out. An old man when I was a kid showed me the secret of hitting the bolt with some penetrating fluid and then keep tapping the head of the bolt to vibrate the fluid in. Sometimes took overnight and several spray and tap sessions, but usually did the trick.

Pete
 
You guys are so helpful. Would be stuck still without your help.

My next challenge is putting the flex pipe and y pipe back on once I get them.

I hear there is a torque spec that I need for the flex pipe bolts to the engine. Getting to these bolts is hard enough .. And now I have to find a way to squeeze a torque wrench in there too!!! I think I have a setup that will work, but it requires the ypipe to be off to torque the bolts. And I hear the ypipe bracket will have to come off by removing the rivits in order to install it when the flex pipes are already solid in place. That's my plan for now... Parts should arrive Thursday to continue.



Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
 
Is there any particular areas I should be using lock tight, and any I should be using grease on bolts?

Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
 
Once you are ready to torque them and have the specs, take your best guess is what I did. I cant remember what it is but not likely real tight. I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong.
Kyle said:
You guys are so helpful. Would be stuck still without your help.

My next challenge is putting the flex pipe and y pipe back on once I get them.

I hear there is a torque spec that I need for the flex pipe bolts to the engine. Getting to these bolts is hard enough .. And now I have to find a way to squeeze a torque wrench in there too!!! I think I have a setup that will work, but it requires the ypipe to be off to torque the bolts. And I hear the ypipe bracket will have to come off by removing the rivits in order to install it when the flex pipes are already solid in place. That's my plan for now... Parts should arrive Thursday to continue.



Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I am sure there are many people who wrench their sleds without a torque wrench. For what its worth.
 
Hey guys, Ive finally got my sled back together! All in one piece. Thanks everyone for all your help and advice. She's running great now. Thx XTX Chris for hooking me up with your pipe and muffler, you saved me a ton.

And for one last dose of humor, I did end up getting my pipe welded but decided not use it because of its strange appearance... See picture of the weld job vs regular pipe. The welder must've been on drugs.
20161222_144815.jpg


Sent from my SM-N910W8 using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

O
Y pipe removal
Replies
7
Views
2K
OneEyePolak
O
A
Y-Pipe problems
Replies
8
Views
645
YammyRX1
YammyRX1
Fast1050
08 fx nytro broken exhaust
Replies
5
Views
1K
Fast1050
Fast1050
Lebowski
Y pipe replacement
Replies
4
Views
567
Lebowski
Lebowski
W
Exhaust Donuts and Y-Pipe Leak
Replies
6
Views
1K
suprfst
suprfst


Back
Top