kinger
VIP Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2005
- Messages
- 7,418
- Reaction score
- 1,556
- Points
- 1,963
- Location
- Clear Lake, IA
- Website
- www.piergenius.com
Hi guys,
Been meaning to do this since last year, since I had to get into my engine again I thought it would be a good time to take some nitrous system shots and explain how it works and some differences to other systems.
As with my other reviews I will stay objective and just point out the facts of the system, if I throw a opinion in everyonce in awhile its because I really feel that way and I get excited
The review:
System - First off when searching around for nitrous there are two things that come to mind before you ever leave the keyboard, it must be safe and it must be easy to install. On a level of difficulty of installation of this system I give it a 6 out of 10, its not the easiest but its certainly not hard. Plan for roughly 5-6 hours of easy work.
System includes:
-NX bottle
-NX solenoids
-NX fuel pump
-NX tuning kit
-CB Performance nitrous blocks
-CB performance 1/2 gallon fuel tank
-All wiring
-Bottle heater
How the kit works and differences from others:
The kit is NX based and its easy to say that CB is just passing on the kit however why re-invent the wheel, NX kits are guranteed to deliver within 1-2% of thier shot and its a reliable kit. The thing I like is how CB adapted it to the yamaha 4 stroke. The blocks are CNC and bolt into place between the head and the carbs, on one side they are threaded so the nozzles screw right into them. What I love about this is 1) The nitrous and fuel is delivered within 1.5" from the valves making it a true direct port system, and 2) the nozzles are hard mounted there is no way of things coming loose over a bumpy trail. Plus they are completely removable no permenant mods are done here.
the seperate fuel tank mounts up in front and I fill it with race fuel 114 octane. For those like me that have no access to race fuel you say why woudl I do that! Well race fuel does not degrade as fast as regular fuel consequenty a 5 gallon pail will last 3-4 years. The 1/2 gallon tank can use about 4 bottles of nitrous before the tank needs to be refilled. When i go on a trip I take the 10lb mother bottle of nitrous and leave the race gas home.
The nice thing about using race gas is that I can now run 87 in the sled, since running 93 is slower burning it can actually gum things up if you use it all the time vs 87. This is the only kit that allows you to run 87 octane fuel and be safe when on the button. Why run 93/91 all day only to use the nitrous for the last 1 minute across the lake?
What happens is you turn the bottle heater on and get the bottle to 900 psi, this takes roughly 20 minutes or so, I usually leave it on during the day or when i know I am getting close to making a run so plan accordinly.
You then activate the system and its triggered by a TPS WOT switch or you can use a button if you wish. Once activated open the bottle confirm 900 psi or there abouts the fuel pump will also turn on and you need exactly 5 psi dead headed. Your ready now! Hit the gas and hold on!!
Couple things to note:
You do have to wire 2 relays one for the nitrous system and one for the bottle heater. This is not difficult and instructions are clear.
It would be advised to have some gauges for nitrous pressure and fuel pressure, I had 0 psi of fuel pressure on the bottle last year and found out it was a fuel pump issue, called bruce they warrantied me another one. They really do stand behind thier products.
This system hits like a freight train, seriously its stupid fast and the sled has seen speeds of 156 mph on the dream o meter. I truly beleive its getting a full shot as that is comparable to a turbo sled of the same power.
With that performance CB had encountered some head lifting problems and head gaskets blowing out. This is a good thing! Notice its not detonation burning up engines it was simply cylinder pressure same as what happens on Turbo sleds. To remedy this ARP head studs were installed. However I beleive on the 40 hp setting you would be safe all stock and the sled will still be a speed demon. I run 80 right now and its just ridciouls I have thought about going to a 60 or a 40 to save some nitrous for more uses on the trail. I do not want to get into bashing or comparing other shots I really believe that a 40hp shot is equivalent to a 100 on most other kits, and I think the bottle heater has a large part to do with that performance discrepancy. I know the patents, etc I dont want to start anything here but the mph claims just dont add up yet on asphalt they seem to on par when its warmer out so I'm thinking it comes down to the bottle temp reguardless of the claims.
TUNING: This is what I love most about the system there is NONE, no turning knobs listening for detonation, nothing. All jets are marked just install the correct fuel jet and N jet from the tuning chart from NX and your going to get that shot. Thats it!
Summary: Run 87 fuel, its safe, ZERO tuning (aside form clutching), run BIG shots on set up motors, make your sled stupid fast..seriously its stupid.
Hope this helps and lord help me we don't get this thread closed only hoping to describe a kit that isn't talked about much on here. Hopefully we can get a few rides in and anybody is welcome to try mine out!!! Happy trails!
Been meaning to do this since last year, since I had to get into my engine again I thought it would be a good time to take some nitrous system shots and explain how it works and some differences to other systems.
As with my other reviews I will stay objective and just point out the facts of the system, if I throw a opinion in everyonce in awhile its because I really feel that way and I get excited
The review:
System - First off when searching around for nitrous there are two things that come to mind before you ever leave the keyboard, it must be safe and it must be easy to install. On a level of difficulty of installation of this system I give it a 6 out of 10, its not the easiest but its certainly not hard. Plan for roughly 5-6 hours of easy work.
System includes:
-NX bottle
-NX solenoids
-NX fuel pump
-NX tuning kit
-CB Performance nitrous blocks
-CB performance 1/2 gallon fuel tank
-All wiring
-Bottle heater
How the kit works and differences from others:
The kit is NX based and its easy to say that CB is just passing on the kit however why re-invent the wheel, NX kits are guranteed to deliver within 1-2% of thier shot and its a reliable kit. The thing I like is how CB adapted it to the yamaha 4 stroke. The blocks are CNC and bolt into place between the head and the carbs, on one side they are threaded so the nozzles screw right into them. What I love about this is 1) The nitrous and fuel is delivered within 1.5" from the valves making it a true direct port system, and 2) the nozzles are hard mounted there is no way of things coming loose over a bumpy trail. Plus they are completely removable no permenant mods are done here.
the seperate fuel tank mounts up in front and I fill it with race fuel 114 octane. For those like me that have no access to race fuel you say why woudl I do that! Well race fuel does not degrade as fast as regular fuel consequenty a 5 gallon pail will last 3-4 years. The 1/2 gallon tank can use about 4 bottles of nitrous before the tank needs to be refilled. When i go on a trip I take the 10lb mother bottle of nitrous and leave the race gas home.
The nice thing about using race gas is that I can now run 87 in the sled, since running 93 is slower burning it can actually gum things up if you use it all the time vs 87. This is the only kit that allows you to run 87 octane fuel and be safe when on the button. Why run 93/91 all day only to use the nitrous for the last 1 minute across the lake?
What happens is you turn the bottle heater on and get the bottle to 900 psi, this takes roughly 20 minutes or so, I usually leave it on during the day or when i know I am getting close to making a run so plan accordinly.
You then activate the system and its triggered by a TPS WOT switch or you can use a button if you wish. Once activated open the bottle confirm 900 psi or there abouts the fuel pump will also turn on and you need exactly 5 psi dead headed. Your ready now! Hit the gas and hold on!!
Couple things to note:
You do have to wire 2 relays one for the nitrous system and one for the bottle heater. This is not difficult and instructions are clear.
It would be advised to have some gauges for nitrous pressure and fuel pressure, I had 0 psi of fuel pressure on the bottle last year and found out it was a fuel pump issue, called bruce they warrantied me another one. They really do stand behind thier products.
This system hits like a freight train, seriously its stupid fast and the sled has seen speeds of 156 mph on the dream o meter. I truly beleive its getting a full shot as that is comparable to a turbo sled of the same power.
With that performance CB had encountered some head lifting problems and head gaskets blowing out. This is a good thing! Notice its not detonation burning up engines it was simply cylinder pressure same as what happens on Turbo sleds. To remedy this ARP head studs were installed. However I beleive on the 40 hp setting you would be safe all stock and the sled will still be a speed demon. I run 80 right now and its just ridciouls I have thought about going to a 60 or a 40 to save some nitrous for more uses on the trail. I do not want to get into bashing or comparing other shots I really believe that a 40hp shot is equivalent to a 100 on most other kits, and I think the bottle heater has a large part to do with that performance discrepancy. I know the patents, etc I dont want to start anything here but the mph claims just dont add up yet on asphalt they seem to on par when its warmer out so I'm thinking it comes down to the bottle temp reguardless of the claims.
TUNING: This is what I love most about the system there is NONE, no turning knobs listening for detonation, nothing. All jets are marked just install the correct fuel jet and N jet from the tuning chart from NX and your going to get that shot. Thats it!
Summary: Run 87 fuel, its safe, ZERO tuning (aside form clutching), run BIG shots on set up motors, make your sled stupid fast..seriously its stupid.
Hope this helps and lord help me we don't get this thread closed only hoping to describe a kit that isn't talked about much on here. Hopefully we can get a few rides in and anybody is welcome to try mine out!!! Happy trails!
Attachments
-
System installed.JPG164.5 KB · Views: 226 -
System installed_2.JPG175.7 KB · Views: 253 -
System installed_3.JPG153.7 KB · Views: 204 -
Jet placement look how close to valves.JPG64 KB · Views: 244 -
Tuning chart.JPG101.9 KB · Views: 203 -
Seperate tank for race fuel.JPG117.5 KB · Views: 185 -
Switches for bottle heater and activation in foot well.JPG56.6 KB · Views: 196 -
External fuel pump snugged away behind rectifier.JPG105.7 KB · Views: 201 -
Dont let wiring scare you real easy.JPG112.6 KB · Views: 269 -
Gauges mounted.JPG59.8 KB · Views: 367
Blown14psi
Pro
kinger said:I do not want to get into bashing or comparing other shots I really believe that a 40hp shot is equivalent to a 100 on most other kits, and I think the bottle heater has a large part to do with that performance discrepancy. I know the patents, etc I dont want to start anything here but the mph claims just dont add up yet on asphalt they seem to on par when its warmer out so I'm thinking it comes down to the bottle temp reguardless of the claims.
That is for sure a sweet setup, I would use that spacer setup if I had a RX1.
You are correct about the bottle temp. N.O.S. perfected the fogger system back in the 80's and they tested nitrous at all diff pressures and it was determined that the nitrous atomized the fuel better at higher pressure, also 80 degree bottle temp is roughly 950psi and it is a lot easier to maintain that bottle temp at the drag strip when most guys are racing in the summer heat.
What I understand is when Holley bought out N.O.S. the guys that stared N.O.S. left and started NX or Nitrous Express.
N.O.S. and NX rate their nitrous kits at the wheels on street bikes so a 40hp shot is roughly 58-60 HP flywheel. That is why you see a diff in the hp and MPH. My buddy had a BOSS dry 30hp on his Apex and my N.O.S. Apex with a 40 shot is much faster and hit's way harder. NX and N.O.S. don't makeup their dyno numbers. I have a kit on my car jetted for 100whp and I got 105whp on the dyno which is equal too 125fwhp.
Nitrous Rules

kinger
VIP Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2005
- Messages
- 7,418
- Reaction score
- 1,556
- Points
- 1,963
- Location
- Clear Lake, IA
- Website
- www.piergenius.com
Ahhhh that does help, I suppose snowmobile companies test thier claims at the clutch where as kits based on cars being used on sleds is based on WHP, that makes a lot of sense! Thanks for the reply!
stoutner
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2005
- Messages
- 737
- Reaction score
- 2
- Points
- 401
- Location
- Seneca Falls, NY
- Website
- www.ecsexpress.com
Sweet looking setup
I'll bet that thing is gonna rock. I would say that by your description, it does look pretty hard to install. If I were a first timer, I would be pretty intimidated by all of those instructions
It would be nice if you could figure out how to run a pressure regulator and some larger nitrous jets. It is very hard to maintain 900 psi in the winter. I ran a car sized bottle heater last year and it took a long time to get it up to temp especially if the bottle sat out all night.
Also, when you are spraying a big shot like you are, you will probably get some pressure drop throughout your spray. Especially if you are spraying an 80 shot for 10 or 15 seconds straight. I noticed my pressure this summer starting out at 900 psi and dropping to about 650 at the end of the dragstrip. It would heat back up pretty quickly and get back to 900 within 10 or 15 minutes.
I think as you are spraying, the liquid that you are emptying out is being replaced by gas vapor. This "phase change" uses a lot of stored heat. That causes your pressure to drop the whole way. I think you don't see it as much in cars because they are running a 10 lb bottle. It is pretty noticable on a 2 or 3 lb bottle.
I'll bet that thing is gonna rock. I would say that by your description, it does look pretty hard to install. If I were a first timer, I would be pretty intimidated by all of those instructions
It would be nice if you could figure out how to run a pressure regulator and some larger nitrous jets. It is very hard to maintain 900 psi in the winter. I ran a car sized bottle heater last year and it took a long time to get it up to temp especially if the bottle sat out all night.
Also, when you are spraying a big shot like you are, you will probably get some pressure drop throughout your spray. Especially if you are spraying an 80 shot for 10 or 15 seconds straight. I noticed my pressure this summer starting out at 900 psi and dropping to about 650 at the end of the dragstrip. It would heat back up pretty quickly and get back to 900 within 10 or 15 minutes.
I think as you are spraying, the liquid that you are emptying out is being replaced by gas vapor. This "phase change" uses a lot of stored heat. That causes your pressure to drop the whole way. I think you don't see it as much in cars because they are running a 10 lb bottle. It is pretty noticable on a 2 or 3 lb bottle.
87gtNOS
VIP Member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2005
- Messages
- 1,892
- Reaction score
- 74
- Points
- 1,108
- Location
- Toronto
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 12 Apex XTX MCX powered
That is an awesome setup Kinger!! All those hoses look like the "Peradator's" hair!!
I think the next step to improving this kit would be to convert all those stainless lines to nylon!
I think the next step to improving this kit would be to convert all those stainless lines to nylon!
rambunctious
Veteran
It is an awesome setup
ran 3 years on my srx with this exact setup
and Bruce was very helpful as I called for questions ( even though I bought it second hand)
my complete setup ( identical to pics) is for sale if anyone is interested
selling only becasue I am selling my srx, and moving to a apex next year with warranty left.
I will give any technical support needed if requested for a first time installed
Ramb
ran 3 years on my srx with this exact setup
and Bruce was very helpful as I called for questions ( even though I bought it second hand)
my complete setup ( identical to pics) is for sale if anyone is interested
selling only becasue I am selling my srx, and moving to a apex next year with warranty left.
I will give any technical support needed if requested for a first time installed
Ramb
Attachments
kinger
VIP Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2005
- Messages
- 7,418
- Reaction score
- 1,556
- Points
- 1,963
- Location
- Clear Lake, IA
- Website
- www.piergenius.com
Put it on the apex after the warranty!!!!!
Do those bottle pressure and fuel pressure gauges have back lighting?
kinger
VIP Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2005
- Messages
- 7,418
- Reaction score
- 1,556
- Points
- 1,963
- Location
- Clear Lake, IA
- Website
- www.piergenius.com
No they dont which I thought was so stupid at first, then after being on the trail hardly able to see I thought it was more stupid using nitrous at night LOL !!
I can hardly type I'm laughing so hard!
You do have a point!
You do have a point!
Similar threads
-
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
