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Center shock wear, ltx le


Do you have a fix for this? @cannondale27 I want to have my shocks freshened up by you this year and if you have a fix I would like that done too.
Few options. Can switch to straight rate spring. I prefer the 160# or can do the Weburg mod which is a shrink tube that helps prevent the wear or I have used some uhmv tape that seems to be holding up well also. Don't expect more than about 3000mi on the tape or shrink tube though.
 
Few options. Can switch to straight rate spring. I prefer the 160# or can do the Weburg mod which is a shrink tube that helps prevent the wear or I have used some uhmv tape that seems to be holding up well also. Don't expect more than about 3000mi on the tape or shrink tube though.
I think I would like the spring as I have cranked up the tension on the stock one to lighten up steering. can you still source them?
 
Is there a heavier spring than the 160
 
Here is some pics of the oil samples in tsicemans shocks. Rear was actually the best. Rest are pretty toasted by 4000mi.
Center
DSC01155.JPG

Rear
DSC01156.JPG

Front
DSC01158.JPG

I also recommend replacing the endcaps with schrader style. Much more reliable.
DSC01157.JPG
 
I have tested the nitrogen pressure with stock cap , didn't notice any measurable loss of pressure with over 1000 miles on them . And if you rebuild your shocks every 2500miles the needle caps work fine .
 
I have tested the nitrogen pressure with stock cap , didn't notice any measurable loss of pressure with over 1000 miles on them . And if you rebuild your shocks every 2500miles the needle caps work fine .
Everytime you stick the needle in there the odds of it leaking go up. There is no secondary seal such as the Schrader cap or a screw and oring like most past needle caps had. I have seen at least a dozen that leaked and they don't always leak immediately after a recharge either. The Schrader caps are just a better way of doing it.
 
Everytime you stick the needle in there the odds of it leaking go up. There is no secondary seal such as the Schrader cap or a screw and oring like most past needle caps had. I have seen at least a dozen that leaked and they don't always leak immediately after a recharge either. The Schrader caps are just a better way of doing it.
How does one know if the nitrogen has leaked out? Rebound or compression go dead or both ?
 
How does one know if the nitrogen has leaked out? Rebound or compression go dead or both ?
With the QS3's Both rebound and 3 position clicker wont click anymore and if shock is compressed it wont return. Most other shocks the compression clicker will still click.
 
Here is another Qs3 with this style cap that lost nitrogen through the fill hole needle goes in. Was never touched by anyone other than factory. Those stock caps are inferior. Can even see a little oil leaked through.
DAA48B7C-4AAC-44B3-BBDB-5B6EA58E92D4.jpeg
57E61A8C-AF46-465A-B75C-FF9CB7A67DF2.jpeg
 
Here is another Qs3 with this style cap that lost nitrogen through the fill hole needle goes in. Was never touched by anyone other than factory. Those stock caps are inferior. Can even see a little oil leaked through.
View attachment 149544 View attachment 149545
What's the higher quality fix for this problem?
Thanks. I have these same shocks on my Cat ZR9000 Ltd.
 


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