nate007
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How much play/slop should you have when your sled is sitting still, by rolling the seconday back and forth. Our snow is gone, so I can't ride to be sure, but I swear I heard the chain jumping the last time I rode it.
By looking at the brake disk, and the cooling fins in the center of the disk, I can roll the brake disk back and forth almost enough to line up 2 of the cooling fins with the same sationary point. Does this make sense?
I had a buddy that just stripped the chaincase on his Polairis, and prior to that his was jumping as well. Somebody else told on that on his sled, you should tighten the adjuster bolt until it's tight, and then back it off 1/2 to 1 turn. Would this be the same?
Second question - If it is that far out of adjustment, should I worry, since my sled only has 800 miles? If I adjust it tighter, is it just going to keep stretching, and eventually leave me stranded?
Nate

By looking at the brake disk, and the cooling fins in the center of the disk, I can roll the brake disk back and forth almost enough to line up 2 of the cooling fins with the same sationary point. Does this make sense?
I had a buddy that just stripped the chaincase on his Polairis, and prior to that his was jumping as well. Somebody else told on that on his sled, you should tighten the adjuster bolt until it's tight, and then back it off 1/2 to 1 turn. Would this be the same?
Second question - If it is that far out of adjustment, should I worry, since my sled only has 800 miles? If I adjust it tighter, is it just going to keep stretching, and eventually leave me stranded?
Nate

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If your sled has reverse you can not tell if the chain is tight or not by rotating the secondary. The reverse gear allows alot of slop. Your chain should be finger tight then back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
ROCKERDAN
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I agree....with these mechanical ER chaincases,its not like a NON ER chaincase,it has alot of slop built into it....
the ONLY thing you need to worry about is tensioner(and oil level)....tighten it by hand,then back off 1/4 turn and lock in that position.
this is my first mechanical chaincase, and I thought it had alot of slop in it too,but when i removed it for my new track, i quickly disected the chaincase and realized this is normal slop with this design.
Dan
the ONLY thing you need to worry about is tensioner(and oil level)....tighten it by hand,then back off 1/4 turn and lock in that position.
this is my first mechanical chaincase, and I thought it had alot of slop in it too,but when i removed it for my new track, i quickly disected the chaincase and realized this is normal slop with this design.
Dan
nate007
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Thanks for the help. I don't want to tear it apart just to see if something is out of adjustment. It really scared me when I heard that noise. I haven't riden it much since (I took my 5 year old daughter)out. I'll check that adjuster bolt.
Another quick question while you are reading - At what point do you know whe you have too much belt wear? Part of my problem is that I 'm hitting the rev limiter all the time, and I noticed that the belt doesn't sit at the top of the secondary. I need to scotch brite my clutches anyway, but how do I know when the belt needs replacing?
Nate
Another quick question while you are reading - At what point do you know whe you have too much belt wear? Part of my problem is that I 'm hitting the rev limiter all the time, and I noticed that the belt doesn't sit at the top of the secondary. I need to scotch brite my clutches anyway, but how do I know when the belt needs replacing?
Nate
Grimm
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There is a minimum wear limit on the width of the belt. Off the top of my head, I think it's about 32.5mm, but don't quote me on that. Check your owner's manual for verification.