Chaincase bolt

Nytroxtxmi

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Has any one had problems with Diveshaft bolt inside the chaincase breaking. So far this year had a nytro come in for general maintenance that the bolt had pushed through the chaincase cover, two nytros for track changes both with the lower driveshaft bolts broke, and two of are personal sleds broke that broke that bolt too when checked. I would suggest taking your cover off and checking.
 
I believe that was on the 08 Nytros. The following year, Yamaha added a small circlip to prevent the bolt from popping out when it would loosen.
 

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I checked mine a few seasons ago when I was changing tracks, it was broken, but no damage to the cover. I ordered the updated bolt, extracted the broken part from the drive shaft, then used some washers to shim the assembly - there's a thread or two on here about that. I pulled the cover after a season of use, and the bolt wasn't broken, but it was loose. I cleaned everything up and reassembled with red loctite (first time, I just torqued to spec w/o any thread locker). It's apparently an assembly bolt that isn't actually necessary once the cover is on, so you can get by without it entirely. I considered leaving it out, ultimately decided to do the updated bolt, but if it's loose/broken again next time I pull the chaincase cover, I'm not going to use it anymore.

Also, my 09 XTX doesn't have a circlip/retainer of any sort.
 
1 was a 2013 it bent and pushed that clip out the way on the way through the chaincase and the other 4 were 2009s
 
Overall, a pretty straight forward process if you normally do your own wrenching.
 
It should be locktighted. I have seen them come out when not done this way.


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Thinking back, I didn't have that circlip on my 09 Nytro, but I do have it on my Apex.

I did do a track change before it hit the snow and after reading about the 08s having that bolt come loose, I did loctite it in upon reassembly.
 
I had my warriors come right out of the case on me. Service manual shows loctite.


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It should be locktighted. I have seen them come out when not done this way.

I don't recall why I thought it didn't need thread locker at the time, but yes, the current service manual I have calls for thread locker, I should have done it that way the first time.
 
Old, old thread. I posted a fix on here 4 years ago. Had a 5 mm shim machined for under the bolt head. They had too long of a bolt and the drive shaft would slam from side to side shearing the head off. They came out with a harder bolt after that.
 


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