Bottom chaincase bolt (again)

[vogelm1]

Dosen't that bolt set your chain alignment?? That is why you always tighten the chain case side first then the speedo drive side. I do know on other brands if you tighten your speedo side FIRST and then your chain case side your chain may not run true and spit the chain----ask me how I know!!!

No, once the chaincase is assembled the bottom sprocket is held in place by the springs tension pushing on the parts in between. You are correct in procedure though. Always assemble and tighten right side before locking bearing on speedo side.

I am just getting ready to do this, good thing I read that. So you fully install and bolt in the chain case side before even setting/locking speedo bearing in place? Do I just leave the bearing floating till I get the chain case side tight?

I did mine in the process of changing a track, so the whole drvie axle came out. In this case, the bearing opposite of the chaincase stayed attached to the axle - it's held on by set screws. When reassembling everything, I loosely installed the speedo side, tightened down the chaincase side to spec, then went back and did a final snug on the speedo side. To tell you the truth, there wasn't a whole lot of "slop" anyway and I'm not sure it would matter all that much which side you tightened first.

 

[yamaposer]

Any one know the part number of the updated bolt? I need to go get one i guess.

I just replaced mine a week ago. I have an '08 RTX. Don't know if the bolt is different for an XTX. 94 cents at the local dealer.

90105-10369

 

[thetruck454]

Dosen't that bolt set your chain alignment?? That is why you always tighten the chain case side first then the speedo drive side. I do know on other brands if you tighten your speedo side FIRST and then your chain case side your chain may not run true and spit the chain----ask me how I know!!!

No, once the chaincase is assembled the bottom sprocket is held in place by the springs tension pushing on the parts in between. You are correct in procedure though. Always assemble and tighten right side before locking bearing on speedo side.

I am just getting ready to do this, good thing I read that. So you fully install and bolt in the chain case side before even setting/locking speedo bearing in place? Do I just leave the bearing floating till I get the chain case side tight?

I did mine in the process of changing a track, so the whole drvie axle came out. In this case, the bearing opposite of the chaincase stayed attached to the axle - it's held on by set screws. When reassembling everything, I loosely installed the speedo side, tightened down the chaincase side to spec, then went back and did a final snug on the speedo side. To tell you the truth, there wasn't a whole lot of "slop" anyway and I'm not sure it would matter all that much which side you tightened first.

Thats how I found mine too. I figured while the drive shaft was out I'd replace all the bearings (I only have 3k miles, but I don't know how long they last) so I don't have to go back in there for a while. I haven't taken the speedo bearing off yet so I don't know if I'm supposed to leave the set screw loose till I tighten everything down.

 

[enticeraised]

Anybody know if YES covers this?? Wondering if I take my sled to the dealer will they change to the updated bolt for free, or charge me if it's not broken?

Anybody try?

If its broke take the drive axle to them and they should remove the old one and replace under warranty. I dont think they will dig into the chaincase for free just to find out if its broke.

If you have it apart and can't get the broken bolt out just call Dealer if you have warranty and tell them your bringing it in (some weird banging noise in chain case). Oh, make sure to put it back together first...

 

[enticeraised]

Dosen't that bolt set your chain alignment?? That is why you always tighten the chain case side first then the speedo drive side. I do know on other brands if you tighten your speedo side FIRST and then your chain case side your chain may not run true and spit the chain----ask me how I know!!!

No, once the chaincase is assembled the bottom sprocket is held in place by the springs tension pushing on the parts in between. You are correct in procedure though. Always assemble and tighten right side before locking bearing on speedo side.

I am just getting ready to do this, good thing I read that. So you fully install and bolt in the chain case side before even setting/locking speedo bearing in place? Do I just leave the bearing floating till I get the chain case side tight?

I did mine in the process of changing a track, so the whole drvie axle came out. In this case, the bearing opposite of the chaincase stayed attached to the axle - it's held on by set screws. When reassembling everything, I loosely installed the speedo side, tightened down the chaincase side to spec, then went back and did a final snug on the speedo side. To tell you the truth, there wasn't a whole lot of "slop" anyway and I'm not sure it would matter all that much which side you tightened first.

Thats how I found mine too. I figured while the drive shaft was out I'd replace all the bearings (I only have 3k miles, but I don't know how long they last) so I don't have to go back in there for a while. I haven't taken the speedo bearing off yet so I don't know if I'm supposed to leave the set screw loose till I tighten everything down.

Take it all apart-it doesn't matter.

 

[nytroman20]

Since were on a chaincase topic i have a question....can anyone tell me what the chain width is for an 08 rtx nytro??

 

[sgilbert]

Last bolt I took out broke 3 threads down. The drive axle and collar were changed for 2010 and none of the 2010s are breaking. That leads me to believe that adding the spacer may cure the problem as it mimics the parts relationship for 2010.

ok. get it now. good post. getting ready for trip, checked mine. sticking out of case. hours drilling and welding cover. updated bolt. finally made sense after have several vintage reverse cases apart in same day. reverse cases of all makes use the bolt to tighten sprocket and bearing, leaving 1/8 space between shaft and end cap. using proper spacer or washers to shim that void and tighten in together with sprocket. removing all flex and making it solid. another eason manuels are useless. they are all like that and this machines axles is way low in chassis, exposing it to the stuff that none of us hit

 

[Mountaintech]

Last bolt I took out broke 3 threads down. The drive axle and collar were changed for 2010 and none of the 2010s are breaking. That leads me to believe that adding the spacer may cure the problem as it mimics the parts relationship for 2010.

ok. get it now. good post. getting ready for trip, checked mine. sticking out of case. hours drilling and welding cover. updated bolt. finally made sense after have several vintage reverse cases apart in same day. reverse cases of all makes use the bolt to tighten sprocket and bearing, leaving 1/8 space between shaft and end cap. using proper spacer or washers to shim that void and tighten in together with sprocket. removing all flex and making it solid. another eason manuels are useless. they are all like that and this machines axles is way low in chassis, exposing it to the stuff that none of us hit

 

[gomer]

Well, after reading all of this, I don't think I'm even going to check this out. It can wait till summer, thanks guys!

 

[sgilbert]

put 200mi on after repairing, very confident on the spacer mod

 

[radianguy]

I'm in the process of changing my track, about half way done. Anyway, when I took the chain case apart I looked to see if the bolt was broken and sure enough. Funny thing was I could not find the broken piece, first time chain case has been apart too. I think I am just gonna leave it without if it won't cause any trouble.

 

[Hornet Handler]

So you're saying you found the snapped off bolt in the driveshaft but not the top part (head) that retains everything outboard of the spring? Either it's been apart without your knowledge, or you've missed it.

 

[radianguy]

So you're saying you found the snapped off bolt in the driveshaft but not the top part (head) that retains everything outboard of the spring? Either it's been apart without your knowledge, or you've missed it.

I was at the dealer today checking to make sure my chain case hasn`t been apart, it has not. I am going to have a better look at it tonight.

 

[mytro]

When opening the chaincase yesterday i found the broken bolt here also
(08 RTX w. reverse with 5000 KMs). I am planning to run without the bolt.

Had the chaincase opened a year ago, at 2000 KMs. But then it was Okey.

I guess it will do more harm to leave it in there, as i could se marks in the chaincase cover from the bolt already.

Any feedback on running without the bolt? or with new bolt?

Thanks.

90105-10368-00 New P/N

 

[radianguy]

I put a new bolt w/ updated part # in mine when I put it back together.