ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Sorry I didn't intend to belittle your post. It is 100% accurate as far as oil requirements and clearly shows how little oil chains are supposed to run in.
Your post got me thinking and wanting to dig into it more - hoping I'd find performance details on the actual chains our sleds use and some sort of heat generated vs oil level data. I wasn't able to find what I was really looking for so I threw what I found into the post...
So far I'm still thinking the best way to keep these chaincases cool is to use an aluminum case.
Your post got me thinking and wanting to dig into it more - hoping I'd find performance details on the actual chains our sleds use and some sort of heat generated vs oil level data. I wasn't able to find what I was really looking for so I threw what I found into the post...
So far I'm still thinking the best way to keep these chaincases cool is to use an aluminum case.
And run synthetic!
RedRX1 said:
Yes by all means I believe they are and it is what I have been using in my sleds since new with no problems. There is no way Yamaha is going to get the amount of oil required wrong in there sleds guys it is what keeps them running. the failures were few and far between and had they been running 100% synthetic oil this thread and post would not be here. Fill it up to the full line with 100% synthetic gear lube and ride it.
canadianhunter said:
Two points:
We do alot of mudding and river crossings with our quads and drownd them often. Couple years ago we saved the syn, oil and water in a clear jug [looked like coffee with cream in] and it never settled out in two years.
Also a friend runs late model stock, stock cars with quick change rear ends. He says you must at least use a friction reducer in the oil or it will burn up,plus use gloves to change gears, but the guys that use syn. oil can change gears bare handed[/quote]
Sled Dog wrote:
When the h20 is emulsified in the oil as you explain here by the oil being a color of coffee with cream in it simple gravity will not separate it. You have in fact made a new fluid out of the two separate fluids.
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
Sled Dog said:
Out of the 3 chaincase failures my buddies had, 2 of them were filled with synthetic, 1 with dino oil. Synthetic unfortunately isn't a 100% solution (probably helps though). I don't know what level they were filled to though.
Also, Yamaha has got something wrong with the chaincase oil level:
- The owners manual clearly says to use the reverse markings with reverse sleds. The warranty contract also says you have to follow the owners manual.
- The shop manual says to use 0.25 liters or 8.5 oz and to use the reverse marking with reverse sleds. Some dealers are also telling their customers to use 8.5 oz. If you use 8.5 oz it is filled somewhere between the full reverse line and the full std line (overfilled per the dipstick and owners manual). Note I have not personally verified that if the cover is removed and all the oil removed that the level is still over the full mark for reverse models after 0.25 liters is added.
- The sleds (05 and up at least) are arriving from Yamaha filled to the full std line even if they have reverse (way overfilled per the dipstick and owners manual).
What is the correct level?
ecopter
TY 4 Stroke Guru
I beginning to think that Rocket Science Class is in session here. Honestly, with the two marks on the dip stick, how much extra fluid does one think is the difference between the reverse mark and the standard mark? I'm here to tell you it's really not a big deal.
I'm sorry, but on my Attak belt guard, it specifies 8.5 ounces. I really don't give two hoots what it reads on the dip stick. Once I pour 8.5 ounces in, I note the location on the stick and use that as my reference point from then on.
I really can't believe this post has gone this far with people in wonderment over something as simple and inconsequencial as a few ounces of oil in a chaincase. Although, some of you have provided some good information on chains and gears......but come on........geez, four pages?
Jon
I'm sorry, but on my Attak belt guard, it specifies 8.5 ounces. I really don't give two hoots what it reads on the dip stick. Once I pour 8.5 ounces in, I note the location on the stick and use that as my reference point from then on.
I really can't believe this post has gone this far with people in wonderment over something as simple and inconsequencial as a few ounces of oil in a chaincase. Although, some of you have provided some good information on chains and gears......but come on........geez, four pages?
Jon
The info I posted was to let people know how little amount of oil is needed. As long as the running oil level is still dipping in the oil it is enough. Even if were to guess how much oil to put in I would say up to the center of the bottom gear. By the time it is pulled up thrown off and sliding down the chaincase I know this would be enough oil.
ecopter said:
Spot on, brutha... There's nothing quite like an oil-related question to start up a good ol' fashioned, long winded, low importance maintenance discussion. This almost rivals a recent antifreeze discussion I got drawn into
Good time fillers in the off season, but there's snow on the ground now. So jus' make sure there's some oil in there and ride. We can revisit this crap to our heart's content when we're all bored next summer.
happytrails
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I would be cautious on saying whether or not the oil level is that important or not. I tried mobil 1 syn. oil in my chain case of my 03 rx1 er. Filled to the reverse line and preceded to fry the oil in about 60 miles. This happened on the run from the Bear Trap to Grand Marias. Change the oil in parking lot of gas station. Put regular 80w90 in it filled to the std. line, and had know trouble the rest of the season.
