Oil floats. So any water that happens to be in there and separates will settle to the bottom of the oil, not rise to the top. This is why the oil pans frequently rust through on grandma's otherwise rust-free "go to church" cars.
I agree that spring is the best time to do all sled maintenance.
I agree that spring is the best time to do all sled maintenance.
yamaha1
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oopps........that is what I was thinking but apparetly my fingers wanted to type something different...was in a hurry to get to a meeting at work.
The point being that the water and oil separate out when it sits over the summer.
Good catch though c1c.....thanks for correcting me.
Y1
The point being that the water and oil separate out when it sits over the summer.
Good catch though c1c.....thanks for correcting me.
Y1
LazyBastard said:
LB if you fill a chaincase too much it will cause to much heat. The added friction of basically stirring the oil will rob HP and turn that lost energy into heat. Same as a gear box add to much oil and it will run too hot and rob HP needlessly.
ReX said:
Any chaincase over filled with oil will run too hot and rob HP. That lost hp will turn into heat in your chaincase same as an overfilled gearbox.
Basically as long as the chain is dipping into and pumping if you will the oil in a chaincase it will be ok. As Rex explained earlier the oil is drawn up by the chain then centrifugal force throws the oil off the chain onto the cover and it runs down the cover back to the bottom of case where there should just be enough oil when it is running to be drawn up again causing a continuous circ of oil. If it is filled up too much and oil cant be thrown off the chain at the bottome the oil will get stirred and churned which takes power and creates even more heat than is needed.
Dealer has the chain case oil in a fixed size bottle 75 weight and that
is all is required for any Yamaha sled. I was told overfilling will cause
a gear oil smell when you drive it hard and possible gasket blow out.
TB
is all is required for any Yamaha sled. I was told overfilling will cause
a gear oil smell when you drive it hard and possible gasket blow out.
TB
Isn't that little bottle 8.5 oz?? I just buy Valvoline synthetic 75W90 in a big bottle as I have 5 sleds and the $$ start to add up in a hurry when it comes to maintenance
ROCKERDAN
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Ran mine all last season with full synthetic chaincase oil,filled to STANDARD line,which is where it was when i got it outa the dealer,so i filled it to same spot....never had any probs at all...
I did open up the VENT areas on the dipstick,which i think is MORE concern then anything on these cases....
I just felt the LOWER LEVEL MARK was too little lube overall...
In conclusion,the higher mark wont hurt from my testing.....oil TYPE matters MORE THEN ANYTHING.....VENTING is VERY IMPORTANT.
Dan
I did open up the VENT areas on the dipstick,which i think is MORE concern then anything on these cases....
I just felt the LOWER LEVEL MARK was too little lube overall...
In conclusion,the higher mark wont hurt from my testing.....oil TYPE matters MORE THEN ANYTHING.....VENTING is VERY IMPORTANT.
Dan
One should mention also that full synthetic will cause your chaincase to run cooler due to less friction.
ROCKERDAN
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Sled Dog said:
YES,so true....I installed a 1 inch predator on my RTX before i ever rode it,so I installed synth as always....I later heard the stock lube it came with was mineral gear oil.....possibly why several failures were had??
I am a firm believer in 100%synthetic Oils and lubes for ALL applications....I am running REDLINE in motor and chaincase this season.
Dan
Here is some really good reading on chain drives. There is a part one and two. I made them into PDF files so you can download and print also you need adobe reader to do this and it is a free download.
http://www.maintenanceresources.com/Ref ... ionpg1.htm
http://www.maintenanceresources.com/Ref ... ionpg1.htm
canadianhunter
TY 4 Stroke Junkie
quote="craze1cars"]Oil floats. So any water that happens to be in there and separates will settle to the bottom of the oil, not rise to the top. This is why the oil pans frequently rust through on grandma's otherwise rust-free "go to church" cars.
I agree that spring is the best time to do all sled maintenance.[/quote]
Two points:
We do alot of mudding and river crossings with our quads and drownd them often. Couple years ago we saved the syn, oil and water in a clear jug [looked like coffee with cream in] and it never settled out in two years.
Also a friend runs late model stock, stock cars with quick change rear ends. He says you must at least use a friction reducer in the oil or it will burn up,plus use gloves to change gears, but the guys that use syn. oil can change gears bare handed
I agree that spring is the best time to do all sled maintenance.[/quote]
Two points:
We do alot of mudding and river crossings with our quads and drownd them often. Couple years ago we saved the syn, oil and water in a clear jug [looked like coffee with cream in] and it never settled out in two years.
Also a friend runs late model stock, stock cars with quick change rear ends. He says you must at least use a friction reducer in the oil or it will burn up,plus use gloves to change gears, but the guys that use syn. oil can change gears bare handed
ReX
TY 4 Stroke God
There are some fairly significant differences between those chains and ours but the lubrication recommendations seem essentially the same. Our sleds uses a high end silent chain, the Hy-Vo chain, and it doesn't have rollers nor pins sliding on plates. Without rollers, the power is transmitted directly from the sprocket to the link plates.
The Hy-Vo is unique in that by design there isn't any metal to metal slippage required (no friction within the chain) making it is much more efficient, able to operate at much higher speeds, and run much cooler (there is still some friction between the chain and the gears but not much). It was originally developed by GM's Hydra-Matic Division and Morse Chain Division of Borg-Warner in the mid 1960's for the "new" Tornado's front wheel drive automatic transmission. Instead of a pin and roller, specially shaped pin pairs rock against each other. Currently Morse and Ramsey are the two primary manufacturers of Hy-Vo chain.
Here is a link to the 2005 Morse Hy-Vo chain application guide and another to their high performance Hy-Vo timing chain system.
http://www.morsetec.com/Hy-vo.pdf
http://www.morsetec.com/HP_eng.pdf
You can see how the pin pairs "rock" on each other in the HP_eng pdf instead of a pin rotating in a hole like a roller chain.
Ramsey has a lubrication guide on their web site (they call their Hy-Vo the RP or RPV).
http://www.ramseychain.com/eng_lubrication.asp
As with your link, Ramsey states the oil level should be just up to the pitch line but they don't state if this should be during operation or static.
One statement they make
"Also, to prevent excessive heat generation, only a short section of chain should run through the bath."
indicates that working the oil can be a significant source of heat.
The Hy-Vo is unique in that by design there isn't any metal to metal slippage required (no friction within the chain) making it is much more efficient, able to operate at much higher speeds, and run much cooler (there is still some friction between the chain and the gears but not much). It was originally developed by GM's Hydra-Matic Division and Morse Chain Division of Borg-Warner in the mid 1960's for the "new" Tornado's front wheel drive automatic transmission. Instead of a pin and roller, specially shaped pin pairs rock against each other. Currently Morse and Ramsey are the two primary manufacturers of Hy-Vo chain.
Here is a link to the 2005 Morse Hy-Vo chain application guide and another to their high performance Hy-Vo timing chain system.
http://www.morsetec.com/Hy-vo.pdf
http://www.morsetec.com/HP_eng.pdf
You can see how the pin pairs "rock" on each other in the HP_eng pdf instead of a pin rotating in a hole like a roller chain.
Ramsey has a lubrication guide on their web site (they call their Hy-Vo the RP or RPV).
http://www.ramseychain.com/eng_lubrication.asp
As with your link, Ramsey states the oil level should be just up to the pitch line but they don't state if this should be during operation or static.
One statement they make
"Also, to prevent excessive heat generation, only a short section of chain should run through the bath."
indicates that working the oil can be a significant source of heat.
Yes Rex I realize that my post was more to show the little amount of oil needed in a chaincase and how it works. Not the dynamics or engineering in the yamaha chaincase.
Yea but what is the true manufactures recomendation for OIL QUANTITY!!!!! are the manuals and dip sticks correct or not.
