wileya
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looking at changing a baring or 2 and was trying to get the 36mm nut of the top gear with a big cresent wrench but don't want to strip the nut. so i have to wait till i get a socket but was wondering if the nut is threaded on the regular way ( clockwise) or is it a reverse thread?
ogre
Extreme
regular thread
NY AttakGT
TY 4 Stroke Guru
X2 on regular threaded, not reverse. I use a large crescent wrench and never once had an issue. It is a little tight and not alot of wiggle-room..so definitely could see where a large very deep 36mm socket would be easier.
MPI makes a nice socket and spline tool to hold the shaft. This was a must when I had to rmove mine. I tried everything and could not get it to loosen. An impact gun and the MPI tools worked awesome. Good luck!

Winderallday!
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I've always used a large crescent wrench on this nut to back it off and tighten it back up. Instead of holding the opposite end of the shaft where the secondary is to oppose the force, I use another crescent wrench on the track drive shaft as it is a hex too. You have to have the drive chain in place to do it this way though.
FWIW saves cost of specialty tools.
FWIW saves cost of specialty tools.



Teamblue4
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This works for Me also.
Apexallday! said:I've always used a large crescent wrench on this nut to back it off and tighten it back up. Instead of holding the opposite end of the shaft where the secondary is to oppose the force, I use another crescent wrench on the track drive shaft as it is a hex too. You have to have the drive chain in place to do it this way though.
FWIW saves cost of specialty tools.![]()


thor452
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wow never even thought of that been worried that i was over stressing the secondary clutch to hold it. I love this site!!!!!
badlarry
Extreme
top gear bolt
I use this next method for anything that needs to lock up those shafts providing the chain is on. I slip the key from the rotor back into the shaft and slide the rotor back on without the chain case cover. and then slip the caliper over the rotor and place a 2 x 6 on either side of the caliper to prevent it from rotating either squeeze the brake and have someone hold it or do as I do and squeeze it and wrap a tie strap around it to keep it squeezed. Then I lay under the chain case and tighten from bottom or loosen from the top with an adjustable wrench or open end 36mm. This works every time for me with no damage to anything. Good luck.
I use this next method for anything that needs to lock up those shafts providing the chain is on. I slip the key from the rotor back into the shaft and slide the rotor back on without the chain case cover. and then slip the caliper over the rotor and place a 2 x 6 on either side of the caliper to prevent it from rotating either squeeze the brake and have someone hold it or do as I do and squeeze it and wrap a tie strap around it to keep it squeezed. Then I lay under the chain case and tighten from bottom or loosen from the top with an adjustable wrench or open end 36mm. This works every time for me with no damage to anything. Good luck.
sherlock29
TY 4 Stroke Guru
as above... but i usually try to get that nut off before chain/bottom gears come off... just more to hang onto to get it free. good luck!
CANAM 4 Stroker
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wileya said:looking at changing a baring or 2 and was trying to get the 36mm nut of the top gear with a big cresent wrench but don't want to strip the nut. so i have to wait till i get a socket but was wondering if the nut is threaded on the regular way ( clockwise) or is it a reverse thread?
You are giving up on the 23T ? Going 24 ?
Is it those turbo'd Cats or that high mileage GT that has you concerned with your top end ?
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