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Top gear 36mm nut is it a reverse thread

Already have big crescent wrenches but would rather use the right tool. I despise crescent wrenches.

One can use a hatchet for a hammer or a screwdriver for a chisel too, but don't make them the right tool!


:Rockon: He who dies with the most tools,

WINS
 

99% of guys who do this simple job use crecent...but you can spend money on tools anytime you like...when at this large size you do not need worry about stripping....lol..spend on!
 
Shootinstick said:
I think I remember seeing a special set of tools on here for holding the jackshaft and torqueing the nut that sold for around $36. If anyone has the part number and source for those tools I would appreciate it.

Jim

I likewise saved the cash on the fancy tool and got the nut off mine with an oversized (15 inch?) crescent wrench.

In order to hold the jackshaft on the opposite side, I installed the secondary, then found a couple bolts that threaded into two of the windage plate holes. Drill two small holes into a piece of scrap angle iron, and use the small bolts to mount the angle iron to the outside of the secondary. Now you've got a nice handle to hold the opposite side very firmly, and out-of-pocket is almost nil if you have scrap metal and bolts laying around like I do...

Hope that helps you or someone else to get yer nuts off fast.... :tg:
 
craze1cars said:
Shootinstick said:
I think I remember seeing a special set of tools on here for holding the jackshaft and torqueing the nut that sold for around $36. If anyone has the part number and source for those tools I would appreciate it.

Jim

I likewise saved the cash on the fancy tool and got the nut off mine with an oversized (15 inch?) crescent wrench.

In order to hold the jackshaft on the opposite side, I installed the secondary, then found a couple bolts that threaded into two of the windage plate holes. Drill two small holes into a piece of scrap angle iron, and use the small bolts to mount the angle iron to the outside of the secondary. Now you've got a nice handle to hold the opposite side very firmly, and out-of-pocket is almost nil if you have scrap metal and bolts laying around like I do...

Hope that helps you or someone else to get yer nuts off.... :tg:
great idea!!!!!!!..love it!
 
I beleive napa sells open end wrenches up to or larger than 36mm. I borrowed one of these from a buddy and made the job a cinch. I prefer not to use "Harley tools" as i affectionately call them (plires, crescent wrenches). I was able to leave clutches in tact and use the track resistance against the jack shaft to break it free. Craze1cars idea seems a little more civilized for getting it back on tight enough with confidence.

Good Luck.
 
VGN001 said:
Try using a crescent wrench to hold the drive shaft while you loosen the nut. The drive shaft is a hex.

another good idea...very good.

Ive done this job several times now on apex and dozens of times on previous sleds,as I am always playing with gears.

I have Always used a large adjustable and never had any problems...its a huge bolt,..not like some small bolt that would strip,and no i dont use adjustables at any other times..lol.

this bolt is put on with alot less worry then others...it has a concave type washer to keep it tight,and torquing this particular nut isnt a huge specific thing here...

Just trying to relay to you guys that your all overthinking this simple nut.....its not like a headbolt which MUST have specific torque.....any tool can work on this..

dan
 
Stick a 2x4 down in the track somewhere inbetween the rail and the suspension or up by the drive cogs, that will bind things up enough to get everything loose and tight again.
 
An air or electric ratchet gun works good. A heavy duty socket with a long extension on the handle of the wrench, then a sharp wrap pn the end of the extension with a hammer.
 
Shootinstick said:
I think I remember seeing a special set of tools on here for holding the jackshaft and torqueing the nut that sold for around $36. If anyone has the part number and source for those tools I would appreciate it.

Jim

Allen (Srxspec) already gave the information earlier in this thread about where you can buy the tools. Micro Belmont also sells a tool that goes on where the secondary goes too.

When I changed my track I didn't really need the tool (nut wasn't that tight), but last weekend when we changed the driveshaft on a buddies sled we found the nut on his incredibly tight. I's estimate it took close to 200 ft-lbs to get the nut off and I'm glad I had the right tools.

Most importantly, having the tool lets you torque the nut to the spec'd 65 ft-lbs and you can do the job with a single person.
 
iasledder said:
An air or electric ratchet gun works good. A heavy duty socket with a long extension on the handle of the wrench, then a sharp wrap pn the end of the extension with a hammer.

Agreed....but only IF you happen to have a 36 mm deep well socket.
Apparently you have one, and I'd love to know the name brand if you (or anyone else here) don't mind my asking. And if you recall, were did you buy it?

In my experience a 36 mm socket us a VERY difficult find through normal channels. The few that I have found out there usually cost an arm and a leg because they're part of a complete 3/4 inch drive set...often $200 plus for the cheap sets, $500-ish for a good name brand set.

But maybe I'm looking in all the wrong places...
 


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