talldude1
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any suggestions here?? I think it is the same stator, etc as the rx-1. not charging at all. put in a new voltage regulator didnt fix it. stator resistance test checked out ok. wiring looks ok. anyone???? 
QCRider
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How do you know it is not charging at all? By the way, it is not designed to "Charge" per se. It will maintain a charge, but if your battery is poorly charged or near dead, the sled will not run. Been there done that. Not saying this is what is going on with you, because I don't know from what you have told us. If it is though, simply put a real good freshening charge on your battery and it should be fine.
LazyBastard
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Uh... yeah, it WILL charge a dead battery to full. If you have a dead battery and wrap a cord around your primary clutch, it is possible to start the engine and restore the battery in that manner. It might not start charging though, until the engine is spinning a certain speed.
talldude1
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brand new battery just put in. battery voltage is 12.5 with engine off. with engine running it is about 12.2 and dropping. should be 14 volts or so. even when you rev it up, voltage does not change.
LazyBastard
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Sounds like you have a broken wire between the voltage regulator/rectifier and the battery. Maybe a blown fuse beside the battery. Check for continuity between the battery terminal and the voltage regulator. If there is no continuity, fix it so there is. Also check the voltage coming off the regulator with the engine running.
black john
TY 4 Stroke Guru
chargeing
check the wireing harnes down in the front of the sled. take the tool box out and standing face ing the sled its on the left side. on the rx 1,s had he wireing harnes rubing on a ahsrp edge of the bulk head. repair was it fix wireing and to cover this section of the harnes with heater hose and zip tie it in place.
check the wireing harnes down in the front of the sled. take the tool box out and standing face ing the sled its on the left side. on the rx 1,s had he wireing harnes rubing on a ahsrp edge of the bulk head. repair was it fix wireing and to cover this section of the harnes with heater hose and zip tie it in place.
QCRider
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LazyBastard said:
Uh NO it WON'T charge a dead battery to full... Been there done that.
http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=9791&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=dead+vector&start=0
The Vector will NOT run with a dead battery.
Tork
TY 4 Stroke God
I had an issue with my Vector at the end of last year before I traded it. Forgot to ask my dealer what it was. See if the dealer got a service bulletin on it.
If so and you have a good relationship with your dealer.....who knows, they have come thru out of warranty before.
If so and you have a good relationship with your dealer.....who knows, they have come thru out of warranty before.
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Things are getting a bit cryptic here. Possibly the intro of a second thread is making things a bit difficult to follow. Also, the comments appear such that we are being a bit "short" with each other. We can do better!
To address your voltage problem:
1. I believe that you need to start will a good charge on the battery. Many people and the Tech Manual says that there is not enough power provided out of the Stator to charge a dead battery.
2. I assume you have checked all your fuses.
3. If you did the Stator Resistance Tests and the Stator reads good, then I suggest that you trace the power. Study the Electrical Diagrams to figure out the involved wire colors and trace the power from the Stator to Battery. When the power disappears, the circuit must be broken between the current and last place you measured voltage at. When charging the battery you should see a VDC greater at the Battery than you saw before it was running (~ 13.8 VDC). However, you need to have a couple thousand RPMs to see this.
4. Broken wires can be hard to find visually. You need to use a volt meter and look for the voltage. The insulation at the break could still appear intact. Wires that have the insulation rubbed off can also be difficult to find, especially with bad lighting and some of the tortured routes we have to inspect. You can also check wires using continuity testing, with the machine off. This would be good to do, just in case you have a wire arcing and placing an intermittant excessive load on the Stator. It takes a bit more thinking and possibly a few disconnections to isolate various circuits and components, etc.. But if you suspect an intermittant short, it is a safer way to go.
If you are down to tracing circuits, there is really no quick and dirty way to preclude this type of testing. However, once you do it, you will have gained a lot of knowledge, which will make it easier the next time or when you want to make an electrical Mod. or add an option.
To address your voltage problem:
1. I believe that you need to start will a good charge on the battery. Many people and the Tech Manual says that there is not enough power provided out of the Stator to charge a dead battery.
2. I assume you have checked all your fuses.
3. If you did the Stator Resistance Tests and the Stator reads good, then I suggest that you trace the power. Study the Electrical Diagrams to figure out the involved wire colors and trace the power from the Stator to Battery. When the power disappears, the circuit must be broken between the current and last place you measured voltage at. When charging the battery you should see a VDC greater at the Battery than you saw before it was running (~ 13.8 VDC). However, you need to have a couple thousand RPMs to see this.
4. Broken wires can be hard to find visually. You need to use a volt meter and look for the voltage. The insulation at the break could still appear intact. Wires that have the insulation rubbed off can also be difficult to find, especially with bad lighting and some of the tortured routes we have to inspect. You can also check wires using continuity testing, with the machine off. This would be good to do, just in case you have a wire arcing and placing an intermittant excessive load on the Stator. It takes a bit more thinking and possibly a few disconnections to isolate various circuits and components, etc.. But if you suspect an intermittant short, it is a safer way to go.
If you are down to tracing circuits, there is really no quick and dirty way to preclude this type of testing. However, once you do it, you will have gained a lot of knowledge, which will make it easier the next time or when you want to make an electrical Mod. or add an option.
talldude1
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thanks for the replies guys. turned out it was a bad stator. had to pull the motor to replace it....fun. it was fried....plastic melted off stator. still not quite sure what caused it....possibly water in connections??
Len Todd
TY 4 Stroke God
Maybe the wiring shorted and put an excessive load on the stator. Just to eliminate a possible casue of the stator failure, before I energized the thing, I would look for a short in the wiring in the rest of the circuits.
