Clutch servicing

[74Nitro]

It seems all that the spacers are doing is increasing the clutch float. The factory clutch had some float, back and forth movement on the shaft.

It might be wise before making any more adjustments to get that belt to take its shape or maybe buy a new belt. It could be that’s what’s causing it to not want to rise to the top of the sheave.

Yes I agree your primary is set up for high rpm engagement, not the best set up for a trail sled. You can change the spring to reduce engagement rpm.

Just to confirm, when you tighten the clutch bolt with the knob backed off and no belt, the sheaves remain together or do they move apart slightly.

That out of shape belt certainly isn't helping.

 

[jpilk99]

That out of shape belt certainly isn't helping.

Just ordered one. Dang, not cheap! Should be here this weekend.

 

[stevewithOCD]

8DN Yamaha belts are the cheapest in the biz.
$60 to $70
Some for Arctic Cat are $240
Plus yours will last.....................forever.......................when we get 'er working that is

 

[jpilk99]

8DN Yamaha belts are the cheapest in the biz.
$60 to $70
Some for Arctic Cat are $240
Plus yours will last.....................forever.......................when we get 'er working that is

I got an OEM Yamaha 8DN for $72.

 

[Revho700]

Has anybody asked you if you pre loaded the spring before trying to adjust the deflection?
Not one person asked if you loaded the spring before you tried adjusting.
Because if it ain't loaded the spring will not pull the sheaves together using the cam and sliders to hold it tight.
There is 3 numbers on the sheave where the spring tangs go into should 1 2 3 by the holes,
then on the cover there should be 6 holes for the tang fits into with numbers on it,
I use hole #3 on the sheave and on the cover I also use #3 on the cover.
It's best to have the clutch on the shaft and set your brake and turn the cover to the right to line up the sheave studs to the cover holes and push them together.
That will load your spring and hopefully take care of your problems

 

[jpilk99]

Has anybody asked you if you pre loaded the spring before trying to adjust the deflection?

I don’t believe so. Though I do recall a post about spring strength if I’m not mistaken.

 

[Revho700]

I don’t believe so. Though I do recall a post about spring strength if I’m not mistaken.

I think thats your issue

 

[Revho700]

It will all come together when you see what I mean

 

[jpilk99]

It will all come together when you see what I mean

Stoopid question but: preload of Primary, Secondary or both?

 

[Revho700]

Stoopid question but: preload of Primary, Secondary or both?

secondary

 

[steiner]

Has anybody asked you if you pre loaded the spring before trying to adjust the deflection?
Not one person asked if you loaded the spring before you tried adjusting.
Because if it ain't loaded the spring will not pull the sheaves together using the cam and sliders to hold it tight.
There is 3 numbers on the sheave where the spring tangs go into should 1 2 3 by the holes,
then on the cover there should be 6 holes for the tang fits into with numbers on it,
I use hole #3 on the sheave and on the cover I also use #3 on the cover.
It's best to have the clutch on the shaft and set your brake and turn the cover to the right to line up the sheave studs to the cover holes and push them together.
That will load your spring and hopefully take care of your problems

All true for a stock secondary. He has a Super Torquer helix and rollers and who knows what spring. Preload might be a different setting with this setup.

 

[Revho700]

All true for a stock secondary. He has a Super Torquer helix and rollers and who knows what spring. Preload might be a different setting with this setup.

Thats true. But it still the same concept. You still have to pre-load it

 

[72Gran]

Has anybody asked you if you pre loaded the spring before trying to adjust the deflection?
Not one person asked if you loaded the spring before you tried adjusting.
Because if it ain't loaded the spring will not pull the sheaves together using the cam and sliders to hold it tight.
There is 3 numbers on the sheave where the spring tangs go into should 1 2 3 by the holes,
then on the cover there should be 6 holes for the tang fits into with numbers on it,
I use hole #3 on the sheave and on the cover I also use #3 on the cover.
It's best to have the clutch on the shaft and set your brake and turn the cover to the right to line up the sheave studs to the cover holes and push them together.
That will load your spring and hopefully take care of your problems

I mentioned that the preloading my be weak but he still needs to eliminate other possibilities first. The spring is strong enough to close the secondary with no belt and when test running the secondary operates properly just not returning the belt to the top.

So the next step is to try a new belt without installing the bolt. We already know the bolt will not move the sheaves apart with the knob backed off.

If the belt sits high and you install the bolt and it’s still high then adjust the knob to set belt height.

If the belt sits high and you install the bolt and it moves low then the spring may require adjustment, more preloading, you will need to figure out which holes to use to increase preload.

 

[stevewithOCD]

I'm going up there Saturday. My curiousity is killing my cat.
If it's not twisted when installing spring, there will be NO pre load.
Even the wrong tension will pull sheaves together. It will run like crap, but they'll pull together.
I'm going to steal my buds' clutch & bring it up for chits & giggles

 

[jpilk99]

I have moved the beast around the yard a couple times since snow dropped last week. Belt is smoking/squeeling so looking forward to SteveOCD coming by for a visit!!!!