Clutch engaged

[RSVECTORFREAK]

OK this belt squeal at idle is just making me nuts. Any suggestions on what to do to correct this action. Old belt after update kit no squeal. New belt after update kit loud squeal at idle only. WTF

 

[garserio]

OK this belt squeal at idle is just making me nuts. Any suggestions on what to do to correct this action. Old belt after update kit no squeal. New belt after update kit loud squeal at idle only. WTF

Did you adjust the secondary width? How high is the belt riding above the top of the sheave? To eliminate the squeal at idle, you need to shim the secondary so that the belt sits lower.

 

[garserio]

OK this belt squeal at idle is just making me nuts. Any suggestions on what to do to correct this action. Old belt after update kit no squeal. New belt after update kit loud squeal at idle only. WTF

Woops, one more thing. The new belt squeals because it is tighter due to no wear... yet. As the belt wears, it sits lower on the secondary and thus more slack on the primary (at idle) This is why your old belt doesn't squeal.

The downside of having your belt sit lower on the secondary at idle is a small loss of low end torque because the "gear" ratio is effectively higher. This will yield a bit more top end though... Adjust your belt the other way and the effect is reversed. Now, I'm talking small changes, but still real.

 

[RSVECTORFREAK]

I didn't adjust anything just changed the belts because my old belt was shot from drag racing and I left the parking brake on when I tried to remove it from the trailer and wore a big notch off the inside. I'll check to see how high it is riding above the sheave when I get home from work. What am I going to shim the secondary with if I need to?????

 

[NY_Nytro]

I didn't adjust anything just changed the belts because my old belt was shot from drag racing and I left the parking brake on when I tried to remove it from the trailer and wore a big notch off the inside. I'll check to see how high it is riding above the sheave when I get home from work. What am I going to shim the secondary with if I need to?????

The width of new belts have some slight variations so your new belt is probably a hair wider than your old belt was when new.

Adjusting the secondary is easy, but you need to get some shims of various thickness.

I have read some go as far as measuring the width of new belts prior to buying them so they get one that is the same.

 

[STORM-CHASER]

OK this belt squeal at idle is just making me nuts. Any suggestions on what to do to correct this action. Old belt after update kit no squeal. New belt after update kit loud squeal at idle only. WTF

Have you had a chance to ride it much since the update Mine did it after the update, But was gone after I got a hundred miles on it.

 

[twomorestrokes]

I have read some go as far as measuring the width of new belts prior to buying them so they get one that is the same.

My buddy does this every time. He measures length too, and says he's found a lot of variations.

 

[Tabor Rider 973]

I had my driven clutch shimmed to get rid of squeal. After that it was kind of on the loose side deflection wise. Got slider noise fix kit installed and it seems to have snugged up a bit.Seems just right now. I'll get some various size shims like someone suggested and keep an eye on the deflection.

 

[garserio]

I didn't adjust anything just changed the belts because my old belt was shot from drag racing and I left the parking brake on when I tried to remove it from the trailer and wore a big notch off the inside. I'll check to see how high it is riding above the sheave when I get home from work. What am I going to shim the secondary with if I need to?????

You shim the 2ndry on the three rear bolts. It's a pain in the #*$&@ because you have to remove the 2ndry to do it and keep iterating until you get it right.

Here's the process:

1. Prepare: Buy shims to keep around the shop because you never know what you'll need. QTY=3, 0.5mm Shim, P/N 90201-061H1 & QTY=3, 1.0mm Shim, P/N 90201-06037

2. Prop-up rear end, the run track and then let the engine idle down to disengage clutch and set the belt in it's "idle position". Make a note of how far above (+) or below (-) the belts sits relative to top of the sheaves. Acceptable limits are -0.5 to +1.5 mm

3. Remove Secondary and add or subtract shims accordingly. Belt too high (+), then remove spacers. Belt too low (-), then add spacers. You can guess at what thickness to add or subtract OR go back to High School Trig to estimate more accurately: t = 2 * H * tan(13) OR t = 0.46 * H
H=Desired Height Adjustment
t=Shim Thickness Needed

Of course, you need to round-up your answer to the nearest 0.5mm since there are only two shims available.

4. Remount secondary and go back to Step 2.

Your owner's manual should describe this adjustment in little less detail...

Now, I beleive that Maxximum Performance makes some kind of adjusting accessory to make this easier to do without shims, but I do not have it on my sled...YET!

Have fun,
Greg

 

[Blue shadow]

After some wear on the stoppers you have to turn it around and it will be new again.They are install with three screws in between the sheaves .Take a look and you will see for your self.

 

[RSVECTORFREAK]

I didn't adjust anything just changed the belts because my old belt was shot from drag racing and I left the parking brake on when I tried to remove it from the trailer and wore a big notch off the inside. I'll check to see how high it is riding above the sheave when I get home from work. What am I going to shim the secondary with if I need to?????

You shim the 2ndry on the three rear bolts. It's a pain in the #*$&@ because you have to remove the 2ndry to do it and keep iterating until you get it right.

Here's the process:

1. Prepare: Buy shims to keep around the shop because you never know what you'll need. QTY=3, 0.5mm Shim, P/N 90201-061H1 & QTY=3, 1.0mm Shim, P/N 90201-06037

2. Prop-up rear end, the run track and then let the engine idle down to disengage clutch and set the belt in it's "idle position". Make a note of how far above (+) or below (-) the belts sits relative to top of the sheaves. Acceptable limits are -0.5 to +1.5 mm

3. Remove Secondary and add or subtract shims accordingly. Belt too high (+), then remove spacers. Belt too low (-), then add spacers. You can guess at what thickness to add or subtract OR go back to High School Trig to estimate more accurately: t = 2 * H * tan(13) OR t = 0.46 * H
H=Desired Height Adjustment
t=Shim Thickness Needed

Of course, you need to round-up your answer to the nearest 0.5mm since there are only two shims available.

4. Remount secondary and go back to Step 2.

Your owner's manual should describe this adjustment in little less detail...

Now, I beleive that Maxximum Performance makes some kind of adjusting accessory to make this easier to do without shims, but I do not have it on my sled...YET!

Have fun,
Greg

Very good explanation!
I've put 150 miles on the update but only about 15 on the new belt. I'm heading to pick up shims tomorrow.