Have some problems with the secondary clutch on my -2006 Apex
Currently running HH and a 48/40 helix with the AC green spring set to 0-1. Sometimes in deep snow when WOT it hits the limiter directly and smokes the belt down the bottom of the sec clutch.
If i go slow on the throttle in the beginning and then WOT it the sled mostly pull fine
Boost is for the moment 16-17psi on a homemade gt2860 turbo kit with meth injection.
Should i wind the AC spring differently? Or is there any other way of solving this issue?
Thanks.
Svante.
Currently running HH and a 48/40 helix with the AC green spring set to 0-1. Sometimes in deep snow when WOT it hits the limiter directly and smokes the belt down the bottom of the sec clutch.
If i go slow on the throttle in the beginning and then WOT it the sled mostly pull fine
Boost is for the moment 16-17psi on a homemade gt2860 turbo kit with meth injection.
Should i wind the AC spring differently? Or is there any other way of solving this issue?
Thanks.
Svante.
BADSLED
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How are your HH loaded, what are you using for base weight, gearing? Don't assume it's your secondary. Both clutches (primary and secondary) need to work in harmony.. Give us some more details...
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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You do not have sufficient side force in the secondary, that's why you overshift and the belt slips because of that.
I do not know the length of the AC spring, is it longer than the stock Yamaha spring?
I use Dalton secondary springs, they are a lot longer than the stock Yamaha springs for the added side force. I'm at 22 lbs of boost on my 2860 turbo.
More torsional force will not increase side force by much, but it will slow down upshift.
I do not know the length of the AC spring, is it longer than the stock Yamaha spring?
I use Dalton secondary springs, they are a lot longer than the stock Yamaha springs for the added side force. I'm at 22 lbs of boost on my 2860 turbo.
More torsional force will not increase side force by much, but it will slow down upshift.
BADSLED said:
I dont remember exactly where i added all weights but i will check that. Gearing is stock and i have the blue primary spring.
/Svante.
rxrider said:
Thats what i suspect!! The green spring is measured 135mm from tip to tip.
Thanks.
/Svante.
Does someone know the difference of degrees from the stock Yamaha spring and the Arctic spring?
I twisted the green spring to point 3 on the sheave and point 3 on the helix. How many degrees is that?
My helix is numbered 0,3,6,9
Thanks.
/Svante.
I twisted the green spring to point 3 on the sheave and point 3 on the helix. How many degrees is that?
My helix is numbered 0,3,6,9
Thanks.
/Svante.
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
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3+3 = 60 deg
You add the numbers x 10 and you get the degree
You add the numbers x 10 and you get the degree
rxrider
Jan-Ove Pedersen
- Joined
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Stock spring is:
Pink at 3+3=60 deg on the 121" Apex
White at 6+1=70 deg on 136" Warrior or Attak
Pink at 3+3=60 deg on the 121" Apex
White at 6+1=70 deg on 136" Warrior or Attak
rxrider said:
Ok thanks!
I heard that the Arctic springs was different. Like 0-2=80deg.
But if not, what is a good number to try with?
/Svante
Svante said:
Svante im on your side, because the oem spring and AC spring is diffrent. They have not the same spring insett points.
kviper
VIP Member
Cat spring tang's are likely aligned different so adding number's as with Yamaha spring's will likely give you different degree of wind.
Being you are in loose snow your driven clutch is not torque censing like it would on hard pack so you don't have the side force needed to keep the belt from slipping in the driven clutch.
So like rxrider said you need more side force and should be accomplished by compression instead of wind/twist.
Being you are in loose snow your driven clutch is not torque censing like it would on hard pack so you don't have the side force needed to keep the belt from slipping in the driven clutch.
So like rxrider said you need more side force and should be accomplished by compression instead of wind/twist.
Well i believe there maybe something else than my driven clutch. What about my primary? Last time i drove it and tried to adjust my heavy hitters i stubled across a dead spot in the mid range and sometimes on the low end. If WOT from dead stop it reaches 9500rpms and stays there, the boost rises to 14psi but theres no go. And then suddenly it pulls like a bat out of hell and hits the rev limiter with 17psi of boost. Sometimes the same when driving in mid range and WOT it. The rpm's stays around 9500rpm and i can go 2-300meters like that, but when on/off on the throttle a couple of times it wakes up and almost tears my arms off. And sometimes it pulls right away.
Very rare problem, i guess. Tried the search function but couldn't find anything similar.
Do you think this could be an issue caused by slight bind in my primary?
I have only driven about 20miles since i replaced the buttons and both bushings in my secondary. But the primary is untouched except for the spring and weights ( 6800km ).
Engine sounds fine and crisp and its a monster when it finally hits the right rpm's so i cant find anything wrong there.
I welcome all the help i can get. This is driving me crazy.
/Svante
Very rare problem, i guess. Tried the search function but couldn't find anything similar.
Do you think this could be an issue caused by slight bind in my primary?
I have only driven about 20miles since i replaced the buttons and both bushings in my secondary. But the primary is untouched except for the spring and weights ( 6800km ).
Engine sounds fine and crisp and its a monster when it finally hits the right rpm's so i cant find anything wrong there.
I welcome all the help i can get. This is driving me crazy.
/Svante
