natedawgedog
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The whole sled was greased when I bought it lol the dealership I got it from was really good about keeping everything good to go. They also filled the tank with fresh premium gas lol
also using premium gas in these are a waste of money. 87 octane, unless you have one of those funny air intake thingys
radianguy
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Funny air intake thingy?
I have full exhaust, K&N filters, pcv, and ulmers clutch kit and tune. I understood these things still didn't require 91. Should I be running supreme?
I have full exhaust, K&N filters, pcv, and ulmers clutch kit and tune. I understood these things still didn't require 91. Should I be running supreme?
natedawgedog
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Funny air intake thingy?
I have full exhaust, K&N filters, pcv, and ulmers clutch kit and tune. I understood these things still didn't require 91. Should I be running supreme?
turbo or supercharger
radianguy
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No N/Aturbo or supercharger
natedawgedog
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the funny looking air intake thingy is a turbo or supercharger. any N/A nytro/viper sled that doesnt have raised compression or charged air (super/turbo) can and should run 87 octane (if it doesnt have ethenol)No N/A
radianguy
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Ok thanks, that's what I figured.the funny looking air intake thingy is a turbo or supercharger. any N/A nytro/viper sled that doesnt have raised compression or charged air (super/turbo) can and should run 87 octane (if it doesnt have ethenol)
terez
Expert
I would wait till after at least your 1st oil change to do the clutch kit.
You will be chasin your tail with settings and finish rpm as the sled is quite tight when new...more so than a 2 stroke. It will be low on rpm and feel slow...don't worry...needs a breakin.
Leave the oil in it till 300~500 miles...its gonna collect all kinds of debris from breakin.
Do the 1st oil change AND clean the screen. Then oil change again at 1000 miles.
Then you'll be good for once a season oil changes.
***Use petroleum oil till at least 1000 miles. Synthetic inhibits good ring seal and other breakin...switch to semi or full synthetic once shes well broken in.
Change the chaincase oil when you do the engine oil changes as it will accumulate a lot of debris too.
For breakin.....
Start the sled and let it idle till the red light comes on and shut off....do these cycles a few times...several heat cycles are a good thing. Get this out of the way before riding season.
Good time to check the coolant level and concentration....make sure it's 50/50...any stronger and it becomes way less efficient at cooling and the Nytro needs all the help it can get.
Once you can ride, vary the rpm a lot and avoid any sustained WFO BUT def flog the damn thing...lots of WFO bursts and hard accelarations. You want to get good ring seal and mate all the internal parts.
The track will stretch a lot in the first 1000 miles too so watch it...but run it on the loose side...the Nytro skid has retarded approach angle and isn't an overly smooth roller so the looser spec is best just enough to keep from ratcheting for your conditions.
IF the track aint stretchin...yer babying it too much...seriously.
Watch the skidframe for loose fasteners
The sled will constantly get stronger/faster right to 2000 miles and more....the motor is built like a tank and takes a good while to fully breakin...not a bad thing but frustrating for riders looking for full performance right out of the gate...and very frustrating for low mileage riders....can take a couple seasons to get er running strong.
There are more than one Nytro's flogged off by an impatient or dissatisfied owner in their initial season. ! lol It was my 1st 4stroke and I was less than impressed when brand new and nearly went that route....broken in/dialed in shes pretty impressive.
Oh and get ready to re learn how to ride...! Nytro school I called it. Between compression braking, the inverted power curve (all torque off the bottom and tapering off up top vs 2stroke the other way) and the weird but sometimes wonderful Nytro chassis You'll be frustrated and likely won't ride it well...or as well as previous sleds. It is fun when you come to terms with it.
Big torque, automotive running quality and reliability, great mileage on reg fuel and no injector oil....Very cool shat.
This was my experience with my new Nytro. She runs strong and is reliable as a hammer so far 2 yrs old with 5000 miles.





You will be chasin your tail with settings and finish rpm as the sled is quite tight when new...more so than a 2 stroke. It will be low on rpm and feel slow...don't worry...needs a breakin.
Leave the oil in it till 300~500 miles...its gonna collect all kinds of debris from breakin.
Do the 1st oil change AND clean the screen. Then oil change again at 1000 miles.
Then you'll be good for once a season oil changes.
***Use petroleum oil till at least 1000 miles. Synthetic inhibits good ring seal and other breakin...switch to semi or full synthetic once shes well broken in.
Change the chaincase oil when you do the engine oil changes as it will accumulate a lot of debris too.
For breakin.....
Start the sled and let it idle till the red light comes on and shut off....do these cycles a few times...several heat cycles are a good thing. Get this out of the way before riding season.
Good time to check the coolant level and concentration....make sure it's 50/50...any stronger and it becomes way less efficient at cooling and the Nytro needs all the help it can get.
Once you can ride, vary the rpm a lot and avoid any sustained WFO BUT def flog the damn thing...lots of WFO bursts and hard accelarations. You want to get good ring seal and mate all the internal parts.
The track will stretch a lot in the first 1000 miles too so watch it...but run it on the loose side...the Nytro skid has retarded approach angle and isn't an overly smooth roller so the looser spec is best just enough to keep from ratcheting for your conditions.
IF the track aint stretchin...yer babying it too much...seriously.
Watch the skidframe for loose fasteners
The sled will constantly get stronger/faster right to 2000 miles and more....the motor is built like a tank and takes a good while to fully breakin...not a bad thing but frustrating for riders looking for full performance right out of the gate...and very frustrating for low mileage riders....can take a couple seasons to get er running strong.
There are more than one Nytro's flogged off by an impatient or dissatisfied owner in their initial season. ! lol It was my 1st 4stroke and I was less than impressed when brand new and nearly went that route....broken in/dialed in shes pretty impressive.
Oh and get ready to re learn how to ride...! Nytro school I called it. Between compression braking, the inverted power curve (all torque off the bottom and tapering off up top vs 2stroke the other way) and the weird but sometimes wonderful Nytro chassis You'll be frustrated and likely won't ride it well...or as well as previous sleds. It is fun when you come to terms with it.
Big torque, automotive running quality and reliability, great mileage on reg fuel and no injector oil....Very cool shat.
This was my experience with my new Nytro. She runs strong and is reliable as a hammer so far 2 yrs old with 5000 miles.






canoehead
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Most new vehicle come with full synthetic. It's an old wives tale about using conventional oil over synthetic for break in.
terez
Expert
Most new vehicle come with full synthetic. It's an old wives tale about using conventional oil over synthetic for break in.
Uhhhm.....sure...prlly best to not walk under any ladders or step on any sidewalk cracks too......Wives tale..thats rich.
To the original poster ....do your research the topic...talk to an engineer...perhaps people who build serious engines for a living...then draw your own conclusion.
Oh and the oem's ship em with synthetic to fend off warranty claims......optimum ring seal and other breakin features is not their goal ...a super slippery engine with plenty of lubrication is...that and leading the customer to the oem oil trough.
canoehead
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Uh ya right I forgot when we rebuilt 404 engines (F-18 Hornet) we put conventional in then drained, flushed, filled with a synthetic after break in. WRONG! Full synthetic always.
One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars, Synthetic oil can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.
One of the myths surrounding synthetic oils is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. The fact is, current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As indicated by the decisions of the engineers who design the high-performance cars, Synthetic oil can be used starting the day you drive the car off the showroom floor.
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