towing
Expert
My RsVenture motor clutch finished the season with pretty deep grooves in the sheaves 
, enough to make my dealer replace them on warranty 
. The sled also give rubber smell very often when accelerate that was really worse in spring warn weather on last rides. I am a tourer sledder so yes, i ride a the same speed very often that make the clutch work in the same area a lot for long periods. I always ride with a passenger and make about 300-500kms/days :ORC .
So, i will begin this next season with brand new sheaves and really want them to last . Comming from Polaris, the clutch maintenance i did on my Rs last year was to clean the sheaves with brown scotchbrite every 1500 to 2000 kms and blow it with compressed air. I also disassembled the secondary and clean the inner bushing and slightly lub it every 3000-3500kms. It work great for my two last Poo (25 000km and was still ok) but it don't make the trick on the venture.
It is obvious that the problem is belt slipping related. My dealer had no better trick to suggest to me
. Some Yammis guys recommend me to regulary sand the sheave to keep them agressive but each seems to have his home recipe to did it and which grain to use. :?:
So, what do you recommend me ????
Thanks in advance
Bye
Alain
, enough to make my dealer replace them on warranty . The sled also give rubber smell very often when accelerate that was really worse in spring warn weather on last rides. I am a tourer sledder so yes, i ride a the same speed very often that make the clutch work in the same area a lot for long periods. I always ride with a passenger and make about 300-500kms/days :ORC .So, i will begin this next season with brand new sheaves and really want them to last . Comming from Polaris, the clutch maintenance i did on my Rs last year was to clean the sheaves with brown scotchbrite every 1500 to 2000 kms and blow it with compressed air. I also disassembled the secondary and clean the inner bushing and slightly lub it every 3000-3500kms. It work great for my two last Poo (25 000km and was still ok) but it don't make the trick on the venture.
It is obvious that the problem is belt slipping related. My dealer had no better trick to suggest to me
. Some Yammis guys recommend me to regulary sand the sheave to keep them agressive but each seems to have his home recipe to did it and which grain to use. :?: So, what do you recommend me ????
Thanks in advance
Bye
Alain
Bakemono
TY 4 Stroke Guru
Have you considered maybe going with a stiffer primary clutch spring? It would make the clutches hold onto the belt stronger, which should reduce the slippage.
It would probably raise your engagement rpm, but I think that if you also changed the clutch weights you could bring the engagement back down.
Another solution would be to go with a softer drive belt. From I know, the stock Yamaha drive belts are made of a really hard rubber. They last a long time, but they also can slip at times.
I dont know if Yamaha offers a softer compound drive belt, but a possible solution would be to try a Dayco Ultimax 3 belt. Its basically a racing belt that is of a softer rubber compound, so it doesnt slip as much, but it probably wont last as long as the OEM Yamaha belt.
Thats all Ive got, Im sure others who have more clutching knowledge than I will have more suggestions.
Cap'n
It would probably raise your engagement rpm, but I think that if you also changed the clutch weights you could bring the engagement back down.
Another solution would be to go with a softer drive belt. From I know, the stock Yamaha drive belts are made of a really hard rubber. They last a long time, but they also can slip at times.
I dont know if Yamaha offers a softer compound drive belt, but a possible solution would be to try a Dayco Ultimax 3 belt. Its basically a racing belt that is of a softer rubber compound, so it doesnt slip as much, but it probably wont last as long as the OEM Yamaha belt.
Thats all Ive got, Im sure others who have more clutching knowledge than I will have more suggestions.
Cap'n
towing
Expert
I'm open to try a different clutch set-up.
By now, when i hit it full throttle, the rpm get between 8800 and 9000rpm.... it is supposed to be 8500 rpm . I'm don't know if the extra 3-500rpm are from belt slipping or just the set-up :?:
What i want is to keep my trail operating rpm like it was or a little bit lower to improve fuel mileage.
Alain
By now, when i hit it full throttle, the rpm get between 8800 and 9000rpm.... it is supposed to be 8500 rpm . I'm don't know if the extra 3-500rpm are from belt slipping or just the set-up :?:
What i want is to keep my trail operating rpm like it was or a little bit lower to improve fuel mileage.
Alain
You need to add more weight in the primary to grab the belt & stop slippage & also get rpm,s down. A stiffer primary spring will make the belt slip more & add rpm,s. Rpm,s for that sled should be 84-8500. Most stock Yammie weights will slip the belt real bad on holeshot & more weight must be added to the inside(pivot or 1st) hole.
Tom-RX1
Expert
What i did with my Rx1 was to go to a heavyer secondary spring . I put in the white mountain spring and set the secondary at 40* rather that 60* the mountan spring has more side push and grabs the belt tighter . Engagement and shift speed stayed the same with a lot less belt slippage and i also got better feul economy . This year I am going to get a lighter primary spring and bring the shift speed down a bit more to see if it improves milage a bit more . also on the RX1 it gained a lot of snap between 20 and 80 mph . I found that to be great for the trail .
Tom-RX1
Tom-RX1
towing
Expert
Thanks for your answers guys
I'm not an expert on clutching, had just play a little bit with my last sleds but if i'm understand correctly, the better way to squeeze the belt more is to go stiffer on the secondary side ???? changing spring or weights on primary will only change the sheave opening vs RPM, but the belt tension will remain almost unchanged ???? this is the secondary that put tension on the belt, did i miss something ????
If i go stiffer on secondary, should i just change spring position or change the spring itself ??? and for primary, is changing the spring (cheaper) will give the effect i want at full throttle or will more affect the clutch engagement ???
As for clutch sheave maintenance, are you just cleaning it or sanding to give them some grip ???
i ask a lot of question, i know but there is a lot of knowledge here and i really want to learn and be ready when the snow will begin to fall 
Bye
Alain
I'm not an expert on clutching, had just play a little bit with my last sleds but if i'm understand correctly, the better way to squeeze the belt more is to go stiffer on the secondary side ???? changing spring or weights on primary will only change the sheave opening vs RPM, but the belt tension will remain almost unchanged ???? this is the secondary that put tension on the belt, did i miss something ????
If i go stiffer on secondary, should i just change spring position or change the spring itself ??? and for primary, is changing the spring (cheaper) will give the effect i want at full throttle or will more affect the clutch engagement ???
As for clutch sheave maintenance, are you just cleaning it or sanding to give them some grip ???
i ask a lot of question, i know
but there is a lot of knowledge here and i really want to learn and be ready when the snow will begin to fall Bye
Alain
Tom-RX1
Expert
Tighting up the secondary changes your shift speed . I went with a heavyer secondary spring and loosened the secondary back to the origianal shift speed . I do not sand the cluches . I clean all the parts with varsol every 1000 miles or so . Exept on my 2500 mile trip last year they had to go all the way . 9'000 miles on sled cluches still good .
Tom-RX1
Tom-RX1
You need to bring down your rpm,s. Your problems are in the primary & not in the secondary. You "MUST" add more mass to the primary weights to bring down rpm,s. An older worn belt will also slip more & raise rpm,s. Very rarely in a stock trail Yammie sled do you need more secondary belt pressure when trail riding but a lot of em need to add more weight to the primary to bring down rpm,s.
DO AS TURK SAID. a little more weight on the PRIMARY weights. shouldn't take much to drop 400 rpm. when doing so the primary will grab the belt tighter and lower rpm. playing with the secondary spring and ramp angles will change shift characteristics (upshift/ backshift)
LazyBastard
TY 4 Stroke God
Might also consider dropping the gearing a bit. The lower the gearing, the less resistance (read slippage) there will be on ENGAGEMENT. Engagement is the worst time for belt slippage!! Compensate by adding primary weight (shift faster) and/or overdriving the primary (shift further). Venture is a long track, so the TRACK slips less on the ground than others. What slip you loose on the track you ADD to the belt.
