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Clutching Turbo Nytro

Ok, I am a newb, but the 60 70 80 degree stuff is throwing me. I mean on old clutches the helix was splined so you could adjust this, but the Nytro clutch only has 3 bolts, so you are kind of fixed to how much wrap you can put in are you not??? When you guys say you are doing an 80 wrap you just mean you are using hole 6 and 2, wraping it and bolting it together right?
 

Just got my hands on the supertips. I´m starting on a 64 gr load and will work my way up. Too bad we don´t have that much snow to do any serious testing in pow. Did try backing off to 60deg pretension and got problem with backshift. But only when going from hardpack to to the loose stuff.
Will report back when the supertips are in place. dumb question:How do you place the weigts on the supertips. Evenly over the weigt or more on the tip,center,heel. Anyone have any input on this, kind of new to the muliple hole stuff. ;)

as always: :rocks: and :4STroke:
 
The most common setup is most weight in the base for god belt grip and backshift.
What base weight did you buy?
Because you asked about how to add weight to get 64g i guess you have 50g base weights and have to add 14g i would run 8g in the base and 6g in the middle and go from there.
But you will end up around 80g and i hope you bought 60g base weights so you can load them 14g in base 4-6g in the middle and 2-4g in tip.
And if you bought 55 x-profile, you don't have to add as much weight, but also get less belt squize which is in my book not as good weight to anything but racing.
 
Ooopsie, i got the 1355yx baseweight. Guess thats the 55 x you are talking about.
I think they can be changed since they are still in the plasticbag.
On the other side lighter weigts makes it more responsive thats why i got the 8bu-00 at the start.
As stated, i don´t want a belteater. So the decreased beltpressure will give me more slipping and increased heat=goodbye belt!? Or can i make it work with the 55 x??
Keeping a very humble and open mind on this, educate me..... ;)!
 
As T-bird said, you have to load the heel..2 7g tungsten, 3g in the mid,and 3g in the tip..that should be a good starting point.

Go back to your 80 wrap, maybe even try 90.

The supertips need lots of weight in the heel because they dont grip the belt down low.
 
Interasting thread - bumping it for you...
And a little hijack if thats ok, is it a big difference in weights 240 v.s 270 mcx ?

Using the mcx weights and blowing belts...270 mcx xtx...
 
I never tried the X weights myself, but i know several running 60g buying 55g X because they would be the latest and greatest and all went back to 60g because they couldn't get the belt grip with 55g X they had with 60g, all of them said the 55 x would be their choice for dragracing, but not for boondocking.

Never wrap the Yamaha white more then 70°, because it will bind before clutch is fully shifted out, buy instead a AC snopro green part# AC-0748-025 and wrap it 0-1, it's cheap and it will grip the belt and make backshift great.
 
I use the pink and wrap it to 80. I have tried 90 as well with it.

Is there coil bind on the pink and silver springs like the white?

When I did have the white in there wrapped at 80, I did see some paint come off the spring...btw, this is on a track dyno.
 
i have a mcx 240 kit on my nytro w a 162" track and i run it at sea level most of the time, my clutching consists as follows
super tips at 64 grams
bl/w/bl primary
14.5 rollers
47 degree helix
purple epi wound at 1/0
stock gearing
running 12 psi and is spot on

i now have the 270 kit and have to find out clutching the super tips for 7500' and up so i might just leave it as is and see what happens
 


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