87gtNOS
VIP Member
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2005
- Messages
- 1,892
- Age
- 50
- Location
- Toronto
- Country
- Canada
- Snowmobile
- 12 Apex XTX MCX powered
Fred the snoop dog said:
APEXER1
Extreme
--highmark--
My original post was for Sled Dog. Not to be rude but i think your missing the point of my original post. Lets just drop it.
It's raining -It sucks
My original post was for Sled Dog. Not to be rude but i think your missing the point of my original post. Lets just drop it.
It's raining -It sucks
Highmark
Veteran
Its dropped.
APEXER1 said:--highmark--
My original post was for Sled Dog. Not to be rude but i think your missing the point of my original post. Lets just drop it.
It's raining -It sucks
I will try the high idle for trail riding sure as heck cant hurt anything trying that. Thanks
Dano
TY 4 Stroke Master
I understand what Highmark is trying to say. The Apex has heavy primary weights in which seem to be the culprit for the engine breaking feel primarily at higher speeds. Its noticeable with my Apex (and RX-1) at higher speeds, but my clutches freewheel or let go at lower speeds where the spring overcomes the weights letting the belt freewheel from the engine load. With my experience clutching, lighter clutch weights equal less engine breaking feel, but the Apex seems to like heavy primary weights to benefit the broad power rang. Secondary spring tension can also control the belt squeeze which can also be thrown in this scenario. This is just my opinion only.
Dan
Dan
I know very little about clutching and will be the first to admit that. In saying that though it would seem very obvious to me that the primary clutch works on centrifugal force and leverage. Initial clutch engagement would happen when there is enough C force and leverage to overcome the primary spring. The squeeze on the belt there after would be greater if more weight was used to create more C force and leverage would not change because it is mechanical. The more weight used would collapse the clutch with less rpm. The secondary is dependant upon and set with how much the primary is closed squeezing the belt which forces the belt down further onto the secondary reducing torque but increasing speed much like changing the belt placement on a drill press. Now this is just what I theorize so dont take this as gospel because I do not know for sure if this is basically how it works.
Would be nice if a clutching guru could give us some basic clutching lessons. I would be very interested. Here is something I found on google search.
Clutching Basics
How your snowmobile's clutch system works.
The clutch system of your snowmobile does the most work yet is looked at as some magical object by many riders. The clutches transfer all power produced by the engine to the track. If more power is produced, the clutch system needs to be changed to maintain efficient power transfer. The clutches must keep the engine in its powerband regardless of terrain changes.
The primary (engine) clutch is the most important; controlling engagement and engine RPM. The cam arms work against the primary spring to determine engagement speed and then must overcome the secondary clutch pressure to maintain engine RPM. All tuning is done by changing cam arm weight or spring rates for proper RPM.
The secondary clutch should have just enough pressure to prevent belt slippage and to backshift quickly. Other than faster or slower backshift, no huge performance gains will be found in the secondary but it must work in partnership with the primary.
Racers have a box full of tuning parts for various conditions but this is not practical for real world snowmobilers. Factory setups are very generic and must work with many different riders. What is needed is a system that can be easily changed to match the rider and his sled.
Heavy Hitters, with their patented adjustability, meet this need by saving the cost of buying many different cam arms and grinding them to desired weight and shape. Heavy Hitters not only allow you to add or subtract weight, but more importantly put the weight in the proper position. You can set-up for trail, deep snow, drags, radar runs, sno-cross, or cross country racing with the same set of cam arms. Not only will one set work in these totally different conditions but you can change from one setup to the next in minutes.
Basic clutch tuning to match your style of riding can have a tremendous effect on the performance of your snowmobile (see Clutch Tuning Handbook for complete tuning info). You can have all the power in the world but if you can’t transfer it to the track, you are just spinning your crankshaft. Clutching is one of the few things that will not only give reliable performance gains but can extend the life of many components and increase your fuel mileage.
Clutching is a win/win proposal; reliable performance, longer belt life, less bushing/sheave wear, improved fuel economy, and best of all is still possible for the average, garage mechanic to do. A bit of time spent here reaps big rewards.
Some more info here!
Here is a link to some more info on clutching. I would post it but it has a prohibitive reproduction disclaimer at the bottom so you have to go there and read for yourself
http://www.snowtechmagazine.com/article ... tchtun.php
Clutching Basics
How your snowmobile's clutch system works.
The clutch system of your snowmobile does the most work yet is looked at as some magical object by many riders. The clutches transfer all power produced by the engine to the track. If more power is produced, the clutch system needs to be changed to maintain efficient power transfer. The clutches must keep the engine in its powerband regardless of terrain changes.
The primary (engine) clutch is the most important; controlling engagement and engine RPM. The cam arms work against the primary spring to determine engagement speed and then must overcome the secondary clutch pressure to maintain engine RPM. All tuning is done by changing cam arm weight or spring rates for proper RPM.
The secondary clutch should have just enough pressure to prevent belt slippage and to backshift quickly. Other than faster or slower backshift, no huge performance gains will be found in the secondary but it must work in partnership with the primary.
Racers have a box full of tuning parts for various conditions but this is not practical for real world snowmobilers. Factory setups are very generic and must work with many different riders. What is needed is a system that can be easily changed to match the rider and his sled.
Heavy Hitters, with their patented adjustability, meet this need by saving the cost of buying many different cam arms and grinding them to desired weight and shape. Heavy Hitters not only allow you to add or subtract weight, but more importantly put the weight in the proper position. You can set-up for trail, deep snow, drags, radar runs, sno-cross, or cross country racing with the same set of cam arms. Not only will one set work in these totally different conditions but you can change from one setup to the next in minutes.
Basic clutch tuning to match your style of riding can have a tremendous effect on the performance of your snowmobile (see Clutch Tuning Handbook for complete tuning info). You can have all the power in the world but if you can’t transfer it to the track, you are just spinning your crankshaft. Clutching is one of the few things that will not only give reliable performance gains but can extend the life of many components and increase your fuel mileage.
Clutching is a win/win proposal; reliable performance, longer belt life, less bushing/sheave wear, improved fuel economy, and best of all is still possible for the average, garage mechanic to do. A bit of time spent here reaps big rewards.
Some more info here!
Here is a link to some more info on clutching. I would post it but it has a prohibitive reproduction disclaimer at the bottom so you have to go there and read for yourself
http://www.snowtechmagazine.com/article ... tchtun.php
