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Clutching

MrSled

Site Admin/CEO
Staff member
Joined
Apr 13, 2003
Messages
21,323
Age
54
Location
Schofield, WI
Website
www.totallyamaha.com
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2020 Sidewinder SRX
I wanted to start a new thread about clutching but lets not let it go to the Dog Pile this time. Feel free to talk about your sleds kits....just lets not make this a sales ploy, this is a information site 1st...K

I sure could use some good old OEM free clutching advice!!! :Rockon:

Thanks
Tom

:4STroke:
 

When climbing with my stock 04 Rx-1 moutain I was revving 10200 to 10400 with a track speed of 80 something kph it didnt climb that bad actually. I also like to use this sled for trails. I do more trail riding than hill climbing for sure but where I live it is nice to be able to do both with one machine. My question is what would the clutch gurus suggest for me. Leave her be or is there something I could do that would make me like this sled even more. I am 250 lb rider and I dont ride agressively on the trails.
 
Sled Dog said:
When climbing with my stock 04 Rx-1 moutain I was revving 10200 to 10400 with a track speed of 80 something kph it didnt climb that bad actually. I also like to use this sled for trails. I do more trail riding than hill climbing for sure but where I live it is nice to be able to do both with one machine. My question is what would the clutch gurus suggest for me. Leave her be or is there something I could do that would make me like this sled even more. I am 250 lb rider and I dont ride agressively on the trails.

Hey, I don't know much about Yammy clutching yet...but I do know clutching!!
Does your sled lack performance on the trail? You say it's actually good in the hills. Can you tell us what you want it to do on the trail. Maybe someone can suggest a helix change or something for you!
 
MrSled said:
I wanted to start a new thread about clutching but lets not let it go to the Dog Pile this time. Feel free to talk about your sleds kits....just lets not make this a sales ploy, this is a information site 1st...K

I sure could use some good old OEM free clutching advice!!! :Rockon:

Thanks
Tom

:4STroke:


:D
 
All I'm going to say at this time is this -

We are the exclusive Canadian Distributor for ProLine Performance. John will be directing all orders from Canada through our business. We will be doing testing ourselves for the FUN and benifit of testing in general and to share info with fellow sled enthusiasts.... Tom has accepted financial support from John at ProLine Performance and has confirmed with me it's permitted to PM or EMAIL us through the site here if you have any questions. You will be served properly and professionally

Everyone have a Great Week!
Spenc

PS: Thanks for being "KooL" Tom
PSS: Pic of testing pad. Will hopefully be using triple piped Viper for comparison sled ( midrange comparison - stock to ProLine kit supplied)
PSSs: Sorry... No Film Crews as of yet ( but we're work'n on it ) :D
peace out ;)!
 

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When going really slow I find the clutch engagement to high. What I mean by this is where I ride in the Ducks there are some real tight turns and the trail narrows where you have to go really slow. I find I have to kick it in then back off kick it in & then back off but only when I have to go really slow. As for top end on the trails and lakes I have enough top end for me there already.
 
Sled Dog said:
When going really slow I find the clutch engagement to high. What I mean by this is where I ride in the Ducks there are some real tight turns and the trail narrows where you have to go really slow. I find I have to kick it in then back off kick it in & then back off but only when I have to go really slow. As for top end on the trails and lakes I have enough top end for me there already.

Geez, if it where as simple as Cat clutching..I would add some weight to the primary and maybe run a dual angle helix with a smaller finish angle than you have now. This will bring down your engagement some and the helix will help keep you peek rpms up.
It can also be achieved with a different primary spring..but again, there are so many damn Yammy springs, I am not sure where to start!! Softer start and a slightly stiffer finish and similar rate.
 
Sled Dog,
Looks like you have a mountain sled, and I believe they came with the bigger rollers in the stock clutch (please let us know...). If you run a smaller roller, it will lower your engagement (It will also squeeze your belt better…). But, it will also raise your top end RPM a little maybe 100/200rpm). In order to fix that you either have to run more tip weight (I suggest this), or pull back on the helix angle (51/43 to 51/47 for example) with no changes to the primary weights...

Hope this helps...

--Buster696--

PS. Tom, how's this for a civilized clutching post... (he, he...)
 
Did a little testing . Put my stock clutching back on my attaks.. Milage about same. One pull 500 more rpm than the other. Switch clutches same sled 500 higher rpm.. Can one motor be that much stronger than the other?
 
byoffcr said:
Did a little testing . Put my stock clutching back on my attaks.. Milage about same. One pull 500 more rpm than the other. Switch clutches same sled 500 higher rpm.. Can one motor be that much stronger than the other?

This could be why the weights are adjustable?
 
byoffcr said:
Did a little testing . Put my stock clutching back on my attaks.. Milage about same. One pull 500 more rpm than the other. Switch clutches same sled 500 higher rpm.. Can one motor be that much stronger than the other?


I would say yes it could. Is the Milage the same on both?
 


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