considering the switch to joe gibbs oil..

ROCKERDAN said:
shanksyamaha said:
No, Im between redline with zddp and just sticking with what I know and trust... amsoil 0w40. I want the extra HP of redline but I know and trust amsoil so much... Im too indecisive about this... its all gunna protect... I think Im gunna take Dans advice and get the redline with the zddp

remember dont add zddp to the redline buddy....its in there.

i only added it to my mobile 1 5w20 for this season.

keep us posted
Dan

OOPs. I was thinking I needed to add the zddp to the redline too. We have talked about it so many times Im getting it mixed up..

So Dan... If I get redline 0w20 Im safe to just run that. Im gunna do a complete oil change with filter and I think this is what Im gunna run. Im going on your expert opinion, you think Im safe running this even with my long distance WOT runs...
 
YamiSmurf said:
If Mobil 1 is good enough for BMW, then it would be good enough for a Yamaha.

It is good enough for bmw but the EPA has put strict regulatons on the content of oils to be used over the highway and alot of the "anit wear" additives have been taken out or significantly reduced in oils that are designed for vehicles. The EPA does not regulate oils that are advertised for "racing only" or "closed course". So you get alot better anti-wear from oils that are not designed for car engines.. or if you use oils designed for car engines, then adding zddp will bring back alot of what as been taken out by strict environmental regulations...



And don't forget... Your beemer might "rev up" but it don't run 10,600 rpm for miles and miles like the yammi sleds do.. gotta keep that baby lubed...
 
Im not sure about how much added HP you get but It will let your motor run with less resistance so It can use its own power better.. Its simple physics

Allen Ulmer has spent some considerable time on the dyno to prove this..
 


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