Copper head gaskets? and a few other questions

[Thomas800]

How many of you are using copper head gaskets, with stainless wire in the head or block deck? On automotive drag race engines, we used to leave the .041" stainless oring out of the deck .011" and machine a receiver groove .045" wide and .008" deep in the head. Like I said, that was for automotive drag race engines, and I'm wondering if the extra work for the receiver groove is a good idea, or if it is neccessary, or even possible with the small bore. Should we should just have the wire groove sunk deeper? We have used 10mm ARP studs and the .027" Yamaha gaskets up until now but we need something more reliable. We run a LOT of boost and a shot of n2O as well, and want to try more n2O. For now we may have Freddie at ECP cut in some orings and supply some copper, unless some of you come up with a better but still cost effective option. Ultimately we may have to girdle the block like the High powered import guys do, but that gets expensive $$. I have been thinking of going to 12 mm stud at the same time as well. Does anyone make a slightly heavier wrist pin than the wiseco pin. How about JE versus Wiseco turbo pistons. Have any of you had the two side by side to compare them, or have you ran both kinds? Is one slightly beefier than the other? While I'm at it, what do you think of putting in cast liners to strengthen the bores? Any thoughts.
Thanks Tom Ljuden R+C Motorsports
www.snowmobiledragsters.com

 

[TWIN TURBO]

Depends on how much power your trying to make. But all of the above sounds right to me for max power 300+. O'rings, liners, studs, and more water around the cylinders to stablize heat. Wiseco and JE are owned by the same parent company and trade back and forth. The turbo pistons from each are the same made by Wiseco.

 

[Anonymous]

Dont forget the crank... send it to fallicon!

They will make it one of their supercrank!

 

[Thomas800]

The crank, main and rod bearings have performed flawlessy to this point. Definitely over engineered. The Falicon crank would be nice but we have to get rid of the other weak links before we head there. Twin Turbo, "Depends on how much power your trying to make". Always more. What is your opinion about using a receiver groove. I would like to try for 40# next season. We didn't quite get there this year, but close
Thanks Tom

 

[TWIN TURBO]

Tom,
Reciever groves can't hurt, they work well with race automotive, They may help tie together the top of the cylinder, the weakest link. I think a flanged iron sleeve would give some strength here also. I would like to tie it all together all the way out to the outside of the block. would require custom sleeves and some machine work but if you fix it right its done. Don't forget the water/heat problem. I replaced 3 customers blocks last year all because the top of cylinder moved way out. I believe that was caused by heat. Need to put water on the front side. The bottom ends seem to be fine at least so far. I like 40# but I would go to alky. Good Luck!

 

[Thomas800]

Thanks for the reply Twin Turbo . I'm building two engines for next spring and I think the one will end up with liners anyway. It makes sence to tie (girdle) the cylinders to the water jacket where the studs are pulling from, so we may end up building a girdle of sorts from some 3/8" to 1/2" aluminum plate. We will oring either way. I talked with a fellow who dynoed some electronically fuel injected alky mini sprint (motorcycle based) engines. Sounds like they worked out very well on the dyno and he says he can put me in touch with the engine builder. . Maybe I can get some pointers from him. Injected Methanol would probably do wonders for these turbo deals, and help with the cylinder temp issue to. 120 octane race gas is expensive $$, so it may be worth changing over.
Thanks again Tom