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Curve skis on EBay

I also prefer the single carbide setup over Slim Jim's but many guys running Curves on the Viper seem to have more of a problem with darting. Curve did come out with an updated ski rubber for the Vipers last year that added a little more rear ski pressure to help with darting. I'm running their 6" round bars and leading edge along with 3/16" shims under Curve's old ski rubbers and have little to no darting or push.

It's also important to make sure the ski toe is set between 1/4" to 1/2" out for proper handling when running these skis with a single carbide.
Thank you
 

When purchasing new carbides for the curves does stud boy woodys make them for curves or are they a std bolt pattern?


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Same as the C&A skis, Part number for 6" Woody Slim Jim (change 6 to 4 or 8 for length of carbide)
#SC6-5000
 
Curve also sells carbides. I think I bought a set once.
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Curve also sells carbides. I think I bought a set once.
View attachment 137291

I've ran those and they wear well. I've also tried the Stud Boy Shaper bars a couple times and they don't last on the Curve skis for some reason. They wear in front of the carbide and eventually break with relatively low mileage. I've also had good luck with the SnowStuds Magnum series carbide for Curves XS skis #RM8906.
 
I’ve got everything ordered except the carbides. I’m going to check my local dealers prices first. They usually are quite comparable to online places. I think I’ll try the stud boy round bar in the 6 in length. I did not get the leading edge for these. I want to try these first and see how it feels. I got the mounting rubbers and bolts direct from curve industries. Wanted to make sure I got the updated rubbers I heard about. Price was about the same as EBay. The hosed me on the shipping though! $22 bucks! Stuff must be riding first class!
 
I also prefer the single carbide setup over Slim Jim's but many guys running Curves on the Viper seem to have more of a problem with darting. Curve did come out with an updated ski rubber for the Vipers last year that added a little more rear ski pressure to help with darting. I'm running their 6" round bars and leading edge along with 3/16" shims under Curve's old ski rubbers and have little to no darting or push.

It's also important to make sure the ski toe is set between 1/4" to 1/2" out for proper handling when running these skis with a single carbide.
What did you use for shin material? Did you use the shims from Bergstrom?
 
I use aluminum. I believe I found a 1" wide by 3/16" thick flat stock aluminum at Tractor Supply or a Home Store. Just cut it the width of the rubber and attach it to the top of the ski under the rear of the rubber. I used two short 3/16" rivets to fasten the aluminum shims to the skis. Drilling shallow holes for the rivets won't hurt the skis but if you don't like that you can drill into the bottom of the rubbers instead or some people elect to use silicon adhesive between the ski and shim.
 
Installing my curves. Can someone tell me if I use the 2 stock Yamaha washers with the curve hardware? Obviously I use the rubber bushing with their bolt. Wasn’t sure about the two washers that were on either side of the spindle. They do fit.
 
Mine did not have washers on each side of the spindle, just one shim to change the ski stance. I do not know how you could get the washers inside of the ski saddle and the spindle as tight as mine were. The sled handled like it was on rails with slim jims. Everyone that followed me commented on how hard of a time they had coming out of my tracks. One person even said he barely had to turn his sled and just operated the throttle like he was on auto pilot. The only thing I didnt like about my setup was that if i didnt shift my weight hard enough the frt would grab in turns and almost throw me off the sled by my momentum.
 
My viper had the 2 black metal washers on each side. The curve skis were a Little bit sloppy without them. With them installed a little bit tight. They still pivot though. The instructions don’t mention anything about them.
 
If yours came with washers, I would re-use all factory parts the fit inside of the ski. Bushings from curve mounted on the inside of the ski. It might just be a difference between years of sleds.(mine had tuner III's) I would not want them loose. (figured when you tighten them down they would put extra pressure on the sides of the ski saddle)
 
If yours came with washers, I would re-use all factory parts the fit inside of the ski. Bushings from curve mounted on the inside of the ski. It might just be a difference between years of sleds.(mine had tuner III's) I would not want them loose. (figured when you tighten them down they would put extra pressure on the sides of the ski saddle)
That’s kinda what I thought. Mine are the tuner II’s. I have the curves installed, still on the jack, just haven’t tightened every thing down yet. I’m actually not crazy about their hardware. The bolts they provided are kinda cheap. Also they are about an inch and 1/4 too long. Also don’t have a hole for coter pin. For $45 bucks I was expecting a little more. Might pull their bolts back out and use the OEM bolt. They are just a fuzz on the short side, but I might be able to get the cotter pin in.

I also called Curve industries yesterday to ask their advice on this. The woman that answered said the guy I needed to talk to was out for lunch. She would have him call me back ..... well, still waiting.....

I also sent them an e mail a week ago asking advice on carbides, never got a reply.
I think their customer service needs some work!
 
My cotter pin always grabs some grass...lol...never had one loosen up, though, but you could always double nut it. The Apex has curve hardware, no pin, no problems in years...rugged skis for sure...sw has the cat bolt with cotter pin.
 
Trying these curves out today. These dart Terribly! My toe out is 1/4 “ total. I’m running the 4 “ round carbide that came with them. If i tighten front ski shock adjusters it turns nicer in corners but darts even worse. Specially whe engine braking. Not happy with these st all.
 


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