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Cutting track windows

MyOutdoors

VIP Member
Joined
May 4, 2003
Messages
426
Location
Lempster, NH
Country
USA
Snowmobile
2020 Sidewinder Ltx Se
Has anyone cut out their closed windows on the stock ripsaw track? I'm thinking of cutting them and not adding clips. What did you use to cut? A utility knive, dremel, holesaw?
 

I used a razor knife. Put a little oil on the blade and it cuts like butter.

IMG_2157-3.jpg
 
mrance111 said:
I used a razor knife. Put a little oil on the blade and it cuts like butter.
doesn't this leave square cornered holes? wouldn't that be a stress riser on the track. I'd expect it to tear at the corners? what am I missing? I'd think radiused corners would be better for the life of the track.
 
I heated up a hole punch with a torch and cauterized the edges. I have 1050 miles on the track without any issues, I’m just posting how I did mine and you’re free to do it however you like. If you plan on fully clipping it you have no other choice.
 
I did it the exact same way as mrance111 did, but used WD-40 instead for lube, lol, but it could have been anything.

Never had a problem with my windows, just took my time, which did take forever I might add, and going to be doing this yet again on the Attak, so you can imagine how happy I am with camoplast for being so anal and not having them cut from the factory.

Just be carefull and all will be well, and besides, regular cut windows are square anyways, but it does sound like a good idea to clean up the corners after if they need to be. Good advice!
 
Most awsome tool is the ROTO-ZIP takes about 15 min. to do all windows,I made the corners round in mine and also made to holes a little larger than the rest so I can change slides with skid still in,Takes only about 5 min. for that.










:die ================== LaLaLa ------------------------------- :nos
 
Two sharp chisels of the right size and just punch them out, OR, even BETTER, go somewhere that sells square steel tubing and buy a piece the right size, then sharpen the circumference from the INSIDE (use something like a dremel for this) and weld on a block to pound on. This will give you a one-hit cut with rounded corners. Or, the third option is to take this last approach, weld on a reasonably long handle, and torch the cutting end before each punch - I think that that would be the very best.
 
I took an old hunting knife and heated it up in a torch and it cuts like butter. I like the heat vs the lube because it burns the ends of the cords in the track. Square corners are fine in the windows. Did this to my viper with no wear issues.
 
Great ideas guys, that is exactley what I was looking for. Good idea with the wider hole for slide removal. Does the roto zip actually burn the rubber(cortorize)? I would think it would. How much weight do you think you saved and did it help with hyfax wear?
 
Just finished up cutting mine out on the 1.25 ripsaw,that i am cutting down to 1" cause my double backers have one stud 1.175 and a chizle 1.2 side by each,so i need a shorter track height,and i am clipping the holes. Now 05 i had the poo 900 crapper and i swaped out there ripsaw for a 9830 clipped every 3rd and i just cut out the remainder 36 holes and i never clipped them,and they were fine,no tears,but i suspect it cost me some top speed,w/out the clips in place.
 
Used a stanley knife with a heavy duty blade and silicone spray and they cut like butter.Cut 2 windows at large to pull out the slides when it comes time.
 


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