• We are no longer supporting TapaTalk as a mobile app for our sites. The TapaTalk App has many issues with speed on our server as well as security holes that leave us vulnerable to attacks and spammers.

Cutting track windows


what's the position on doing this vs. the slp wear pads?

m rance I like your pattern....I'm about to stud a 136..what pattern is it? do you think since I have the skid out right now i should cut the windows open or slp pads?
 
mnmsnowbeast said:
Just finished up cutting mine out on the 1.25 ripsaw,that i am cutting down to 1" cause my double backers have one stud 1.175 and a chizle 1.2 side by each,so i need a shorter track height,and i am clipping the holes. Now 05 i had the poo 900 crapper and i swaped out there ripsaw for a 9830 clipped every 3rd and i just cut out the remainder 36 holes and i never clipped them,and they were fine,no tears,but i suspect it cost me some top speed,w/out the clips in place.

Why might it cost you top speed?, are there still every thrid clip on?

If there is all the windows cut and every third clipped, wouldnt that make it faster if anything due to there being more lube to the sliders via the newly opened windows, and less rotating mass? I dont know for sure, but I thought from me doing this to my sled, not only would I actually not melt my sliders like theyre going out of style, but Id gain performance for sure.

The SLP wear pads sound like an option for the person who doesnt want to cut their windows but wants to increase their slider wear. Otherwise, I think they are not a good idea, your just adding mass to a spot on the track that was soposed to not be there in the first place, ie. the closed window. I would have thought that adding that extra spot from cutting out the closed windows, to allow more snow in, would equal less slider wear, and that alone would work better than adding the wear pads.
 
SLP Wear Pads

One thing about the wear pads is that they are a wearing item=you need to inspect them occasionally and replace if they get too thin.

If you ride in good conditions, no problem. Not sure if it was here or another site, a guy said his got to be like a razor and cut into the hyfax, which wouldn't be good=worn too thin.

I have the wear pads on my track and in 1400 miles, they still look very good.
 
mrance111 said:
I used a razor knife. Put a little oil on the blade and it cuts like butter.

Could you explain the benefits of this...rance....I'm about to stud a 136 and I like your pattern...what did you use please?
 
SJ, he is talking about how he cut out the closed windows on his track. Some people use a utility knife, others use roto zip,chisels,holesaw, etc. The point to cutting the tracks are to let more snow in to lube your slides, it also will take a small ammount of weight out which creates less rotating mass. My question was if this mod would effect track life and after this thread and all the responses I've looked at, it seems it is a great "DIYer" mod that will not effect reliability.
 
see that's what's confusing to me..
I thought the windows were closed to hold the snow in (at least that's camoplast's point) and cutting will let it out..
the open seems to me anyway...will not have the friction of rubber against slides which should roll easier?
 
sj said:
what's the position on doing this vs. the slp wear pads?

m rance I like your pattern....I'm about to stud a 136..what pattern is it? do you think since I have the skid out right now i should cut the windows open or slp pads?

The benifit of opening the track windows is less friction and more lube. Mine rolls better and I have less Hyfax wear since I opened the windows. I have a 121" track and I used Woodys 168 studd pattern.
 
I cut mine open on my Vector and Apex with a 1" hole saw, just remember to torch the edges of the hole to seal them off and prevent fraying.

I was amazed at the amount of plastic from the hyfax melted to the back of the pieces or rubber I cut out, so I assume this will only help with slider wear, as well as reduce friction.

I was going to go with the SLP pads, but I have heard when they get thin they can catch an edge and fold up, doing damage before you may even realize it...

Just my 2 cents... :drink:
 
cool ...thanks guys...now the only choice is
1" or 1-1/8" hole saw or cut the squares>????
 
sj said:
cool ...thanks guys...now the only choice is
1" or 1-1/8" hole saw or cut the squares>????
If you cut out the squares you always have the option to fully clip the track if desired without any additional cutting.
 
Yamahammer485 said:
mnmsnowbeast said:
Just finished up cutting mine out on the 1.25 ripsaw,that i am cutting down to 1" cause my double backers have one stud 1.175 and a chizle 1.2 side by each,so i need a shorter track height,and i am clipping the holes. Now 05 i had the poo 900 crapper and i swaped out there ripsaw for a 9830 clipped every 3rd and i just cut out the remainder 36 holes and i never clipped them,and they were fine,no tears,but i suspect it cost me some top speed,w/out the clips in place.

Why might it cost you top speed?, are there still every thrid clip on?

If there is all the windows cut and every third clipped, wouldnt that make it faster if anything due to there being more lube to the sliders via the newly opened windows, and less rotating mass? I dont know for sure, but I thought from me doing this to my sled, not only would I actually not melt my sliders like theyre going out of style, but Id gain performance for sure.

The SLP wear pads sound like an option for the person who doesnt want to cut their windows but wants to increase their slider wear. Otherwise, I think they are not a good idea, your just adding mass to a spot on the track that was soposed to not be there in the first place, ie. the closed window. I would have thought that adding that extra spot from cutting out the closed windows, to allow more snow in, would equal less slider wear, and that alone would work better than adding the wear pads.
Because rubber by itself does not roll as frees on plastic as does the steel clip,and the fact that the ripsaw track in general is of a softer durmiter rubber than say a 9837 preditor track is,and the preditor will roll easier and not delaminate as easy,as a softer track with big 1.25 lugs.
 
just got done doing mine tonite-used a stanley utility knife-works fine
the benefit is less weight and more hyfax lube-although clips tend to be faster on top end due to less friction-the added 3lbs of weight is a negative so whats better-less weight or less friction tough choice
 


Back
Top