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Dalton primary weight question

S

STAIN

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2022 SIDEWINDER LTX GT
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I just purchased my first set of Dalton primary weights and have a few questions.
When installing the slugs, do you always bottom them out?
Can you move the slug around in the weight?
Has any one tried to move the location of the slugs by putting limiting slugs of lighter weight in first?
Example, installing maybe an aluminum/plastic slug first so the heavier slug sits farther back in the weight if so desired.
Tomorrow will be my first run with this type of weight. I have used MANY different styles before but not Daltons.
 

Interested in this as well, I put my slugs all the way in till it bottomed out but not sure that was what I was supposed to do.
 
You can put the slugs wherever you prefer. Make sure you loctite them if not tight in the tip though.

I have found on the Yamaha sidewinder primary the best spot is the tip. Only testing can confirm the best spot for the weight.
 
Bottomed out(tip) works best in TURBO....Spools faster down low, keeps top end Revs down.

Mid or heel will tend to lower rpms in bottom and mid, which is not wanted by most.

Dan
 
My thinking was, as with other adjustable weights, the more weight I can get towards the heel, the harder I can grab the belt down low.
I will run them all the way in for now to get it dialed in.
I just added 1.5 grams last night for a total weight of 80 grams, got to bring my rpms down a bit......
 
STAIN said:
My thinking was, as with other adjustable weights, the more weight I can get towards the heel, the harder I can grab the belt down low.
I will run them all the way in for now to get it dialed in.
I just added 1.5 grams last night for a total weight of 80 grams, got to bring my rpms down a bit......
Click to expand...

I tried running it in the heel. It vibrated out and broke the moveable sheave. Screw slugs all the way in tight and you wont have issues, except for the longest slug (1 inch 4.4g). Dalton recommends not to put it in first, but if you have to, bottom out and back off 1/2 turn.
 
Last edited:
Fleecer said:
I tried running it in the heel. It vibrated out and broke the sheaves. Screw slugs all the way in tight and you wont have issues, except for the longest slug (1 inch 4.4g). Dalton recommends not to put it in first, but if you have to, bottom out and back off 1/2 turn.
Click to expand...
good to know!!!!!!
 
Fleecer said:
I tried running it in the heel. It vibrated out and broke the sheaves. Screw slugs all the way in tight and you wont have issues, except for the longest slug (1 inch 4.4g). Dalton recommends not to put it in first, but if you have to, bottom out and back off 1/2 turn.
Click to expand...

I know Dalton says not to run a 1" in the tip, but I run a 1" in the tip all the time, I've never had an issue removing it. Not to say you couldn't, I just never have.
 
STAIN said:
My thinking was, as with other adjustable weights, the more weight I can get towards the heel, the harder I can grab the belt down low.
I will run them all the way in for now to get it dialed in.
I just added 1.5 grams last night for a total weight of 80 grams, got to bring my rpms down a bit......
Click to expand...
In theory this is true....But with a turbo you really want to spool that up down low.

Dan
 
STAIN said:
I just purchased my first set of Dalton primary weights and have a few questions.
When installing the slugs, do you always bottom them out?
Can you move the slug around in the weight?
Has any one tried to move the location of the slugs by putting limiting slugs of lighter weight in first?
Example, installing maybe an aluminum/plastic slug first so the heavier slug sits farther back in the weight if so desired.
Tomorrow will be my first run with this type of weight. I have used MANY different styles before but not Daltons.
Click to expand...
Read the instructions first, maybe twice in your case! Never put the long slug in first and bottom it or you will end up screwed trying to get it out later. The weights will warp and bend your slugs. Find out what weight you need to get close to your max RPM. Put the shorter slug in first and bottom, put in the longer slugs and bottom, when testing and you over rev, you can back out the long slug a little at a time to get the RPM down where you want, Dalton's can be adjusted vary accurately that way. If you change helix or spring you will have to redo
 
STAIN said:
My thinking was, as with other adjustable weights, the more weight I can get towards the heel, the harder I can grab the belt down low.
I will run them all the way in for now to get it dialed in.
I just added 1.5 grams last night for a total weight of 80 grams, got to bring my rpms down a bit......
Click to expand...
Turn your tip weights out a little at a time to fine tune
 
yamashaker said:
Read the instructions first, maybe twice in your case!
Click to expand...
Read them more than twice. Nowhere does it say if they want all the slugs bottomed or if they can moved around the weight. Reason for post.
Your telling me that moving weight away from the tip toward the heel will bring RPM down?
 
STAIN said:
Read them more than twice. Nowhere does it say if they want all the slugs bottomed or if they can moved around the weight. Reason for post.
Your telling me that moving weight away from the tip toward the heel will bring RPM down?
Click to expand...
Fake news.......
 
The reason for not using the long 1" slug all the way to the tip is this.
We have had a few in the early days that got stuck.

It is a tapped hole, and even a bottoming tap does still have some taper on the cutting threads, so it is not perfect tap right at the end. I know many do and can but if you turn it too tight it could stick. The reason it only ever happens with the longest one is that there is so much thread pitch on a screw that long.....the slightest distortion during heat treating...etc...the tapping at bottom...all combined it could happen. It has only ever happened a few times but it has happened. Some people over tighten everything just by habit (especially inexperienced mechanics. it is a known issue for all fasteners)...probably part of the reason also. Just dont over do it if you do.

As for moving the set screws around.
Lots of people do that and keep one in at the tip and one at the heel flush, etc. If you decide to do that, you should use new BLUE removeable loctite each time on the one in the heel that is not bottomed...if you do that it should never move i would not think.

Blue loctite does not react and set until it gets wound together, but once it sits ( supposded to be at room temp for a few mins) , when wound together it really holds any fastener from moving.
Lots seem to do it.

It is true, however, that it seems for most sidewinder applications they end up just screwing the weights in against each other as normal.

Here is a new vid by Supertrax that shows the weights used in a sidewinder

 
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