jclee71
Extreme
just jumped the starter relay and the starter turned over, now going to remove starter relay and clean it up, hopefully that works because i dont know if dealers in my area carry them in stock
Blue Dave
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Just because the starter cranks when you jump across the starter relay contacts does not necessarily mean that the starter relay is bad. Do you have 12 vdc on the starter relay coil circuit (red / white & blue / white wires) when the key switch is in the cranking position? If so then you have a bad relay or bad connection on the relay. If not, then you need to work backwards from the relay.
jclee71
Extreme
jumped the relay and sled ran no problem, removed starter relay and it had green and corrotion where the white plug plugs in, tried cleaning with no luck yet, whats best way to clean?, still not getting any click out of it, looks like i need a new one, ill keep checking things, thanks blue dave
Blue Dave
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Do you have a volt meter? If so, do you have 12 vdc on the relay coil circuit (red/white & blue/white wires) when you turn the key switch to the cranking position? You have already proven that the battery & starter are fine by jumping across the starter relay contacts. Therefore you either have a bad starter relay, bad electrical connections at the starter relay, or you are not completing the 12 vdc relay coil circuit when the key switch is in the cranking position.
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Blue Dave thanks for helping so much. This is what makes this site so great.
jclee71
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i understand what you mean about the other circuit coming from ignition switch, but can't locate my voltage meter, only have cheap little voltage tester.
TBay Sledhead
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That's all you need. #3 is the key switch, #11 Engine stop sw. (red button), #7 starter relay and #8 starter. Power goes into the key sw via the R/Y (red/yellow) out to the stop sw via Br (brown). From the stop sw to the starter relay via R/W (red/white), out of starter relay back to the key sw via L/W (blue/white) and out of the key sw to ground via B (black).
With key in start position check at the starter relay R/W for power, power there then check L/W after the relay for power If there is no power there then you have a bad starter relay, or a bad connection. Jump 12v to the starter relay R/W and L/W to ground, this will test the relay, if relay doesn't close then u have a bad ground or no power. Tried add a wiring dia but it didn't work
With key in start position check at the starter relay R/W for power, power there then check L/W after the relay for power If there is no power there then you have a bad starter relay, or a bad connection. Jump 12v to the starter relay R/W and L/W to ground, this will test the relay, if relay doesn't close then u have a bad ground or no power. Tried add a wiring dia but it didn't work
Blue Dave
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R/W (red/white) is hot all of the time when the ignition switch is on and the kill switch is up (not just when cranking). The L/W (blue/white) is grounded by the key switch when in the cranking position which completes the starter relay coil circuit.
TBay Sledhead
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Yes my mistake.
Blue Dave
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jclee71
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ok guys, i had a chance to test some wires, here is what i found, there is a white plug that plugs into starter relay, it was three wires, a red/green, red/white, blue/white, without touching the key the red/green has power, other two don't, when I turn key to first position(prime) all have power, when I turn key to start position, blue/white loses power, other two stay powered, of course the main terminal attached to battery has power, other terminal going to starter does not, that sound correct? Am I safe to assume starter relay fried?
Blue Dave
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The red/green feeds + 12vdc to your fuel injection relay and it has nothing to do with the starter circuit. It should be hot all of the time like you reported as it is connected to the battery.
The red/white should be hot with the ignition switch on and the kill switch up as you reported. The blue/white will also read +12 vdc with reference to ground when the key is not in the cranking position because you are simply reading the red/white wire voltage through the relay coil because the blue/ white wire is "floating".
Once you turn the key to the cranking position the blue/white wire is grounded (or as you said "loses power") and the 12 vdc relay coil circuit is completed. With the key in the cranking position you should see 12 vdc across the relay coil with your positive meter lead on the red/white and your negative meter lead on the blue/white. If this is the case it sure sounds like you have a bad starter relay.
The red/white should be hot with the ignition switch on and the kill switch up as you reported. The blue/white will also read +12 vdc with reference to ground when the key is not in the cranking position because you are simply reading the red/white wire voltage through the relay coil because the blue/ white wire is "floating".
Once you turn the key to the cranking position the blue/white wire is grounded (or as you said "loses power") and the 12 vdc relay coil circuit is completed. With the key in the cranking position you should see 12 vdc across the relay coil with your positive meter lead on the red/white and your negative meter lead on the blue/white. If this is the case it sure sounds like you have a bad starter relay.
TBay Sledhead
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Sounds that way to me also.
jclee71
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bad starter relay confirmed
just wanted to follow up, it was a bad starter relay, only 50 bucks but cost me some good riding last week, now it warms up, ticks me off, thks for your help!
just wanted to follow up, it was a bad starter relay, only 50 bucks but cost me some good riding last week, now it warms up, ticks me off, thks for your help!
Blue Dave
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I'm glad you got it fixed. Too bad about the melt down. Same thing this week here in MN. I wish that I knew how to fix winter!
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