Did everyone see master fix list?

[kinger]

I posted that awhile ago looking for some dialogue on current fixes. If most are like me I don’t always notice the stickies.

What does everyone think? I will keep updating the thread if people agree I got it wrong.

Thanks!

 

[sab2022]

I got it right here, thank you. The only thing I'd like suggest is, maybe organize it a little better by effectivity of year if applicable.. Mike it a sticky?

 

[Dr. FeeLGooD]

Cool. I made a book mark . Thanks.

 

[SidewinderConvert]

I saw it but am new enough to the winder that I don't have a valid opinion yet. It was helpful for me as someone in the process of setting their sled up though.

 

[WinderFab]

Awesome I just noticed it now..

 

[snowcaine]

I’ll throw in my suggestions based on what I’ve gleaned from this site’s knowledgeable members (such as Turboflash, Fleecer, Knapp, Clutchmaster, Yamamarc, Cannondale, Rockerdan, etc.). I’m by no means an expert, so I hope one of the knowledgeable members will add their input.

Re blown belts, I would just add that misaligned clutches and heat greatly contribute to belt failures. Clutch offset should be 59mm. Belt temps should be under 180 F. Razorback belt temp gauge is nice. Check offset after blown belts in case stub shaft moved inward, thus increasing offset. If stub shaft moved, press apart, clean, green loctite, and press back together.

Re top gear bushing, I don’t know if I’d link the Hurricane gear fix. Several knowledgeable members cast doubt on a needle bearing fix. I would say it’s recommended to change the top gear annually as part of normal yearly maintenance to avoid issues and use at least 16oz of quality chain case oil.

Re rollover valve delete, I would just make it a little clearer that it’s probably not necessary on ‘20 and later models. E.g. re-phrase to “Rollover valve (‘17, ‘18, and ‘19 only) — Freezes....”

Re skis, I would say pre-‘21 skis are junk and should be replaced with something from C&A Pro, Curves, Doo 5.7 or 6.9 Pilots, or something comparable.

I would add a section about track tension/deflection and link the Precison EFI video. Note especially important to run track tighter when studded.

I would add a section about the rollover valve dumping in the air box and the advisability of re-routing the hose somewhere else either with a crankcase breather, a catch can, or dumping under the sled somewhere. Fabio and I have both posted pics of this.

Maybe add a section re removal/replacement of existing torx muffler bolts with a hex head bolt and using copper anti-seize.

Maybe a section on proper tightening of chain tensioner. Some members recommend 1 turn out from finger tight. Some recommend 1.5.

Maybe a section to inspect the sled for loose coolant hose clamps and connections. Same with vacuum hoses, intake boots, and basically anything with a clamp.

End it with a recommendation to read Rockerdan’s build thread.

 

[WinderFab]

Well said snowcaine.. I think you pretty much nailed it..

 

[kinger]

I’ll throw in my suggestions based on what I’ve gleaned from this site’s knowledgeable members (such as Turboflash, Fleecer, Knapp, Clutchmaster, Yamamarc, Cannondale, Rockerdan, etc.). I’m by no means an expert, so I hope one of the knowledgeable members will add their input.

Re blown belts, I would just add that misaligned clutches and heat greatly contribute to belt failures. Clutch offset should be 59mm. Belt temps should be under 180 F. Razorback belt temp gauge is nice. Check offset after blown belts in case stub shaft moved inward, thus increasing offset. If stub shaft moved, press apart, clean, green loctite, and press back together.

Re top gear bushing, I don’t know if I’d link the Hurricane gear fix. Several knowledgeable members cast doubt on a needle bearing fix. I would say it’s recommended to change the top gear annually as part of normal yearly maintenance to avoid issues and use at least 16oz of quality chain case oil.

Re rollover valve delete, I would just make it a little clearer that it’s probably not necessary on ‘20 and later models. E.g. re-phrase to “Rollover valve (‘17, ‘18, and ‘19 only) — Freezes....”

Re skis, I would say pre-‘21 skis are junk and should be replaced with something from C&A Pro, Curves, Doo 5.7 or 6.9 Pilots, or something comparable.

I would add a section about track tension/deflection and link the Precison EFI video. Note especially important to run track tighter when studded.

I would add a section about the rollover valve dumping in the air box and the advisability of re-routing the hose somewhere else either with a crankcase breather, a catch can, or dumping under the sled somewhere. Fabio and I have both posted pics of this.

Maybe add a section re removal/replacement of existing torx muffler bolts with a hex head bolt and using copper anti-seize.

Maybe a section on proper tightening of chain tensioner. Some members recommend 1 turn out from finger tight. Some recommend 1.5.

Maybe a section to inspect the sled for loose coolant hose clamps and connections. Same with vacuum hoses, intake boots, and basically anything with a clamp.

End it with a recommendation to read Rockerdan’s build thread.

Thank you! All updated!

 

[yamamarc]

It would be neat to have a pole with the list of the issues that we can check off if we experienced the problem! I would be curious to see what is most common between our ty members

 

[SideHogger]

Great job! This, and this whole forum has helped this backyard mechanic more than a few times! Thanks to all who contribute!

 

[yamadoo]

Kinger as always good job.
I know we could never see it BUT wouldn’t it be cool to see the real incidence % of each of those problems.
Some one at Yamaha does know these things, unfortunately for them the balance of Profitable versus BEST is always on going.