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Does transfer rod effect ride quality?

I disagree....... After 10,700k, I would have thought you would have learned something. If you want to get rude, we can do that. I was just stating my experience and opionion and I agree with what DELATABOX says. I have adjusted the limiter on everysled I have ever owned and they all work very similar to each other. If you tighten the limiter you are raising the front of the skid, which means there is less track on the ground, which reduces traction......
 

Rotax! said:
I disagree....... After 10,700k, I would have thought you would have learned something. If you want to get rude, we can do that. I was just stating my experience and opionion and I agree with what DELATABOX says. I have adjusted the limiter on everysled I have ever owned and they all work very similar to each other. If you tighten the limiter you are raising the front of the skid, which means there is less track on the ground, which reduces traction......
Click to expand...

You are absolutely wrong about the front of the skid lifting. Go look at your limiter straps, they are not even close to tight when you sit on your sled in the stock postion. Even when you pull them up the same amount of track touches the ground when you are ON the sled. The only difference is that there is less weight on the track and more on the skis.

Also, I don't think Rex was rude at all, he was merely speaking from experience with the Monoshock RA skid and I am not sure that the rest of you are. I rode mine all winter last winter and my results are exactly the same as Rex describes. I can't speak for the top speed issue completely yet since I ran all year with the straps sucked in. But I can tell you for certain that my sled will not go over 100 MPH with them sucked in. I plan to let them out this year for at least one speed run to see what the difference is, but I fully expect that it will pick up between 8 and 10 MPH.

I am not debating your experience with other sleds and skids, I'm just relating real world experience with THIS skid. The ONLY way to keep the skis planted in a high speed corner is by sucking the straps up. I don't mean under acceleration either, I mean rolling into a high speed corner and roling out.
 
Did anyone ever ride a pre 2002 CAT ?

Do you know why those Cats could easily pull the skis 3' feet in air and had notorious inside ski lift ?

Do you know why they had an awesome holeshot ?

They had maximum transfer and ZERO coupling.

What did CAT do to change this ? They added coupler blocks to limit transfer and couple the rear suspension. They didn't pull the limiter straps up.

I'm not saying pulling the straps won't reduce ski lift, it will but it does it at the expense of reducing the rear travel.
You could take away all rear suspension travel and have a machine that corners the best...thats an oval racer.
 
NY_Warrior said:
Did anyone ever ride a pre 2002 CAT ?

Do you know why those Cats could easily pull the skis 3' feet in air and had notorious inside ski lift ?

Do you know why they had an awesome holeshot ?

They had maximum transfer and ZERO coupling.

What did CAT do to change this ? They added coupler blocks to limit transfer and couple the rear suspension. They didn't pull the limiter straps up.

I'm not saying pulling the straps won't reduce ski lift, it will but it does it at the expense of reducing the rear travel.
You could take away all rear suspension travel and have a machine that corners the best...thats an oval racer.
Click to expand...

Not only did I ride one, but I owned several and the only way you could keep the skis down on them was to pull the straps up.

Your last sentence tells it EXACTLY like it is. The kind of riding we do in Quebec is far closer to oval racer than it is to sno cross. Rear suspension travel is something you willingly sacrifice to be able to take long fast corners and be in control.
 
my experience has been to reduce weight transfer and u keep the ski's planted,increase weight transfer and the ski's come up..never have i touched limiter straps
 
QCRider said:
Rotax! said:
I disagree....... After 10,700k, I would have thought you would have learned something. If you want to get rude, we can do that. I was just stating my experience and opionion and I agree with what DELATABOX says. I have adjusted the limiter on everysled I have ever owned and they all work very similar to each other. If you tighten the limiter you are raising the front of the skid, which means there is less track on the ground, which reduces traction......
Click to expand...

You are absolutely wrong about the front of the skid lifting. Go look at your limiter straps, they are not even close to tight when you sit on your sled in the stock postion. Even when you pull them up the same amount of track touches the ground when you are ON the sled. The only difference is that there is less weight on the track and more on the skis.

Also, I don't think Rex was rude at all, he was merely speaking from experience with the Monoshock RA skid and I am not sure that the rest of you are. I rode mine all winter last winter and my results are exactly the same as Rex describes. I can't speak for the top speed issue completely yet since I ran all year with the straps sucked in. But I can tell you for certain that my sled will not go over 100 MPH with them sucked in. I plan to let them out this year for at least one speed run to see what the difference is, but I fully expect that it will pick up between 8 and 10 MPH.

I am not debating your experience with other sleds and skids, I'm just relating real world experience with THIS skid. The ONLY way to keep the skis planted in a high speed corner is by sucking the straps up. I don't mean under acceleration either, I mean rolling into a high speed corner and roling out.
Click to expand...
All, I am saying is too try and adjust the control rod first, then go with the limiter strap, but if you feel you can gain more with increasing the weight transfer, then go for it..... test and try.......
 
For the every day rider, the control rod will pretty much do the trick, but if you want to haul #*$&@ in and out of the tight corners, more adjustment will be needed.
 
ok boy's,this is my rule of settig the ride up so try to follow along cause sometimes i confuse myself .last sled set-up was a 03 zr 900.i think of the sled as im riding(get this) a teether-thotter.dont laugh,listen.first i set my fat #*$&@ weight, so rear spring and position 3.im thinking my weight helps transfer when needed.next,i let out the limiter strap in front and tighten the front skid shock spring and go try it.at this point im looking at holeshot only,then i cruise at trail speed(65-70) a strait trail speed.depending on snow cond,i look at darting.to me lenthing the front limiter gives a good hard rear transfer when needed and the ski's out of the snow at cruising speed(no darting).let off the gas and the transfer comes more on the ski's for easy slight turning and braking adds more transfer to ski's but not to much where its's hard to turn in a oooh #*$&@ sharp turn.once i have the rear figured out.as conditions change.i loosen front ski shocks for less ski pressure(weight on front of skid now) for loose or deep snow,or tighten front ski shocks for more ski(ice and hard pack) but the fornt of skid still out for traction ans top speed as i learned on my 02 zr 800 cce with the dial-adjust...my theory is.the middle of sled or front of skid is where i make my major adjustments .it also controls how slow of fast your fornt to rear transfer comes into play..how im gonna make it work on my 06 apex is another story.i will look at it and use the adjustments' the mono has and do my thing.my set -up has work great for me and many other's including a guy i never new before who was gonna spend big buck's on duel runner carbides cause or darting.i made adjustments and tested his sled for 1/2 hr and changed his whole sled.he bought lunch......al....any question's???belive me it works!!!
 
While on the subject of weight transfer I have a question.

Will a firm/stiff spring produce less, the same or more transfer. I notice that my Attak does transfer and hook up just great (middle setting, stock limiter, with the stiff spring) but will not wheelie like my RX-1 did. I wondering if its the spring or the 136" skid that is taking away from my Funny car type holeshots?
 
For trail riding, because these 4 strokes have so much instant torque, and many of us are used to 2 strokes, you need to squeeze on your throttle. To hammer down is going to upset the balance and put an inside ski in the air coming out of a corner.
In any driving school they teach you smooth progressive application of throttle and brakes will give you the fastest lap times. And also you can get the most out of a vehicle set up 'neutral'. If you are ham fisted you have to make more compromises to your set up
 
Tork, it's getting INTO corners where I don't want the lift. The only way to stop that is more ski pressure. Power induced lift is very controllable. I actually don't mind the old point and shoot method where the skis are just ticking the snow. But when coming hard into a 50-70 MPH corner I really like both skis on the snow. Do you see my Avatar? You don't ride trails like that at 45 MPH.
 
You get ski lift on a straight trail like in your av? That is whacked.
Some of these guys on the tight and twisties are having a hard time because they what on the throttle.
 
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