Doo wheels on mono suspension

[ROCKRTX]

ttt

 

[LJ 452]

I used the spoke style Yam wheels last year and they all are in great shape. These wheels have a replaceable bearing but use the same size bearing (6005 I believe) that the stock wheels do. So no changing the mounts. With that I should state that the two rear inner wheels were the Yam 6205 type wheel as I had machined the mounts and now I am stuck with that size wheel. Two seasons on those wheels and one is about shot the other maybe one more season (2000+ miles). As far as the hyfax vs. wheels, every time I've pulled my skid the wheels touch first. New or used hyfax I can roll the skid on the ground, on it wheels. The center wheels will take the most load as the weight is directly over them no matter what. The out side wheels will simply tip the sled if an obstruction in underneath them.

 

[ROCKRTX]

I already have the yamaha spoked wheels,they lasted 2 season but the inner wheels are now shot,also have to change some bearing and 2 rear wheels.

The thing is the doo wheels got the 6205 bearing that is bigger than 6005 and i also want to improve drag on the track.I know that the 2 inner wheels got a lot of stress,that why i want to try the doo REAR wheels from a 2005 mach Z,they are a bit bigger at 180 mm and got the 6004 bearing,so with the bigger REAR wheel it should remove stress on the 2 inner wheels.

 

[apltx08]

Check these out YAM accessory available in different colours w/6205 bearings replacable and actualy LAST! I've put over 12.000kms on a set on my shorty RX1 '05 and I'm also running these on my '08 APEX LTX 136" w/'6500kms with no problems with delaminating, you must machine the rear inner mounts to line up centre of the cogs...no big deal its worth it.

 

[LJ 452]

Check these out YAM accessory available in different colours w/6205 bearings replacable and actualy LAST! I've put over 12.000kms on a set on my shorty RX1 '05 and I'm also running these on my '08 APEX LTX 136" w/'6500kms with no problems with delaminating, you must machine the rear inner mounts to line up centre of the cogs...no big deal its worth it.

Those are the ones I used for the rear inner, I machined the holders so that the wheels were perfectly centered. Two seasons and one is shot, the other well like I said it may make it through the next season. As far as changing out the rear (axle) wheels, I see what you are saying about removing some of the load, however flat terrain wouldn't be my concern. It's when you ride over an ice chunk case a mogal, or an ice chunk gets between the wheel and the track. It seems some have had good luck with the Doo wheels but you are taking a risk, for me two seasons on a set of wheels is fine, I think that the location of these wheels is what plays the biggest factor in how they hold up. Not as much the make or size. I think trying to run a wheel through the cogs that's just as wide as the gap it not helping.

 

[monsterattak]

Check these out YAM accessory available in different colours w/6205 bearings replacable and actualy LAST! I've put over 12.000kms on a set on my shorty RX1 '05 and I'm also running these on my '08 APEX LTX 136" w/'6500kms with no problems with delaminating, you must machine the rear inner mounts to line up centre of the cogs...no big deal its worth it.

Those are the ones I used for the rear inner, I machined the holders so that the wheels were perfectly centered. Two seasons and one is shot, the other well like I said it may make it through the next season. As far as changing out the rear (axle) wheels, I see what you are saying about removing some of the load, however flat terrain wouldn't be my concern. It's when you ride over an ice chunk case a mogal, or an ice chunk gets between the wheel and the track. It seems some have had good luck with the Doo wheels but you are taking a risk, for me two seasons on a set of wheels is fine, I think that the location of these wheels is what plays the biggest factor in how they hold up. Not as much the make or size. I think trying to run a wheel through the cogs that's just as wide as the gap it not helping.

the ski doo 503190802 that i installed is a narrower wheel. I dont have exact dimensions but with the eyeball i would say its .200 narrower...part of the reason i installed them. less wheel on track should equal less friction.

I think you are right in that the width of the stock idlers does not help anything out with idler wheel lifespan . hopefully I will have a good ride report after the season on these wheels.

 

[SledFreak]

I think the biggest thing here is to make sure when you change the two rear inner small wheels, that you drill an extra mounting hole, so that it helps keep the wheels from moving around.

Here read these two..

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

 

[monsterattak]

I think the biggest thing here is to make sure when you change the two rear inner small wheels, that you drill an extra mounting hole, so that it helps keep the wheels from moving around.

Here read these two..

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php? ... sc&start=0

I think Rockerdan does great posts for all of us and he was the originator of the handwarmer fix.. (i am forever indebted)

That being said I am not sold on the idea that the one bolt mounts flexing cause the wheels to go bad. I do not think the one bolt mounts flex much at all and the way they are designed in my opinion they fit very tight against the rails and and with the bolts tightened they spread the load across a 1.5 inch (appx) surface. If the single mount bolts ever came loose you would be in big trouble!

I think the wheel issue is a combination of studs not pulled tightly enough into track , too wide of wheels for inners , and poor quality wheels on many sleds.

My reasoning : The only wear on my early 06 build attak idlers was the outside edges where they obviously had a few collisions with the track drive nubs. My idlers outside diameters were all clean, round and presentable when i removed at 2800 miles. Even though the wheel surface was good two bearings were shot! Flexing mounts I don't believe is a factor in the wheel life. If it was then since i have studs and 2800 miles and i weigh over 300 lbs then my wheels should have been shot or at least chunked off.

With all that said i think Rockerdan's setup looks awesome and the two bolt mounts look sweet. I just don't believe they are necessary. In my opinion the one bolt mount is plenty strong and rigid if it is tightly seated against the rail, spreading the load across 360 degrees, and stays tight like it should.

We shall see if my new ski doo 135 mm wheels are going to hurt my rails and one bolt mounts. Based on what i see in the design of the skid I think I am going to be just fine...

 

[yamy07]

I bought bigger wheels for my Fx Nytro with the 6205 bearings. Looking for someway to machine .060 off my inner mounts ( I don't have a lathe or any machinist friends). Any suggestions? I'm thinking of trying to chuck them in my drillpress somehow & turn them down with a tool held in my crosslide vise. Just seems like I'm asking for trouble though. Most machine shop have awfully high minimum charges for something this simple.

 

[monsterattak]

I bought bigger wheels for my Fx Nytro with the 6205 bearings. Looking for someway to machine .060 off my inner mounts ( I don't have a lathe or any machinist friends). Any suggestions? I'm thinking of trying to chuck them in my drillpress somehow & turn them down with a tool held in my crosslide vise. Just seems like I'm asking for trouble though. Most machine shop have awfully high minimum charges for something this simple.

Its not as hard as it seems. find a small shop that does jobber work. The guy i called did all 6 of mine for 30 bucks and called it "Bar Money". He was happy to do it... He invested about a half hour into it... easy job for a seasoned lathe operator.

you should have plenty of shops in your area since i assume there is manufacturing in Duluth... avoid high peformance engine shops or specialty machining shops. They will look to skin you for "specialty work" ! This is simple stuff not specialty....

 

[LJ 452]

You could even check with some local High School/College. I did a vocation type thing when I was a kid (that sounds weird) and we would do machining for locals all the time. It's not a safety item so they shouldn't have any problem with doing it. Just need to find a High School/ College with a manufacturing program. This would be if you couldn't find a local shop of course.

 

[ROCKRTX]

Is it safer to just change the 4 front wheels to release stress on the 2 inner on change all the 6 with the 135 mm doo wheels.

 

[LJ 452]

I think the front and rear wheels are separated enough that it wouldn't have a huge effect. Since we don't ride on hard flat surfaces, for the most part, I think the stesses are localized.

I wonder if the extra weight of the exhaust in the rear is causing the delamination. Not that specifically, but at least adds to the side load and increases the chance of contact with the cogs. Mmm. Of coarse it's more than just the exhaust the extra weight of hte snow/ice buildup doesn't help either. Then again that's a result of the exhaust being routed under the tunnel.

 

[yamy07]

Well, checked with a couple machine shops. One wanted 80 dollars, another said 35 apiece, finally found one that would do both for 20 bucks - so I went with them. It wasn't going to be worth the gas - driving around to find someone cheaper. Now if I can just get some better slides - I've tried 2 pair of graphite slides & they have both broken when I slid them on.

 

[SledFreak]

Is it safer to just change the 4 front wheels to release stress on the 2 inner on change all the 6 with the 135 mm doo wheels.

Chnage all 6.