Has anybody swithced over to DOO wheels and used the stock bolts in the skid? I just changed the four outer idler wheels to the DOO 135 MM wheels. I changed my front bolts, but did not have the time to disassemble the skid to change the set that are second back from the front. The nuts tighten until they are almost flush and I used loctite. Do you think this will be okay?
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
i had my holders turn down, but make sure the wheels aren't rubbing against the lugs
I intend on having my holders turned down, but I am leaving to Canada tomorrow so I will have to wait until after this trip.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
JTD0314 said:I intend on having my holders turned down, but I am leaving to Canada tomorrow so I will have to wait until after this trip.
just check the bolts so they don't loosen up and make sure it isn't rubbing, did you smoke all of 6 of them?
energeezer
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SharkAttak said:JTD0314 said:I intend on having my holders turned down, but I am leaving to Canada tomorrow so I will have to wait until after this trip.
just check the bolts so they don't loosen up and make sure it isn't rubbing, did you smoke all of 6 of them?
Never smoke them before wrenching. You will miss something.
I got sick of changing my hyfax every 2000 miles! I changed the four outer wheels to Doo. I will change the two inner wheels over the summer and machine all of the mounts.
Blue Dave
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Hey Guys,
I'm just curious if your hyfax are quickly wearing to the point of requiring replacement with the stock wheels?
The reason I ask is because my experience with Yamaha's (I have had 13 so far) is that they will always wear a new set of hyfax very quickly, but then once they wear to a certain point (still usable) that they will stay like that for a very long time.
I'm just curious if your hyfax are quickly wearing to the point of requiring replacement with the stock wheels?
The reason I ask is because my experience with Yamaha's (I have had 13 so far) is that they will always wear a new set of hyfax very quickly, but then once they wear to a certain point (still usable) that they will stay like that for a very long time.
Swiss Sledder
TY 4 Stroke God
Yes, that is exactly what happens. The Yamaha hyfax wears very quickly and then seems to stop. I got 2600 miles out of my last set of hyfax and they stopped wearing after about 500 miles.
The slightly larger wheels from Poo or Doo do not cause the hyfax to wear so quickly at the beginning.
The slightly larger wheels from Poo or Doo do not cause the hyfax to wear so quickly at the beginning.
GREGSER1
Newbie
Hey Guys,
I have read a lot of posts on this subject and i'm still not clear on what or where things have to be machined down to install the doo or poo wheels.
Could someone try to explain to me.
The reason i am asking because it is ether i'm going to put on the doo,poo wheels, or i'm going to buy the FIX wheel kits for the inside of the rails. Which is cheaper/better in the long run so to speak?
Thanks
I have read a lot of posts on this subject and i'm still not clear on what or where things have to be machined down to install the doo or poo wheels.
Could someone try to explain to me.
The reason i am asking because it is ether i'm going to put on the doo,poo wheels, or i'm going to buy the FIX wheel kits for the inside of the rails. Which is cheaper/better in the long run so to speak?
Thanks
snowbiscuit
Expert
hyfax
I have owned many Yamaha's with very little hyfax wear, but the monoshock eats hyfax thruout, from one end to the other and I'm not studded. 3rd set this season and others I ride with very little wear. Maybe someone hear has the answer.
I have owned many Yamaha's with very little hyfax wear, but the monoshock eats hyfax thruout, from one end to the other and I'm not studded. 3rd set this season and others I ride with very little wear. Maybe someone hear has the answer.
JohnWI
Pro
Blue Dave said:but then once they wear to a certain point (still usable) that they will stay like that for a very long time.
My Rage has about 1000 miles+/-. I saw the wear and was installing a front wheel kit. While doing it, I saw that one slider was down to the rail. The other one was thin. The rear area about a foot in front of the rear wheels showed a bit of wear, but really quite good. I haven't decided (now) that I'm going to do the ones in the rear. I'm going to see how the wear goes and only add them if needed.
Granted, a lot of the trails last year (about 400 miles) were snirty and some are on top of granite railbeds. I was hoping the rumors were true, "they wear fast and then stop." Not in my case, anyway. And for what it's worth, getting the slider off which was worn was a PITA. It bunched up and was not fun.
Now, the skid doesn't even contact that corner of the rail, and I'm not sure, but I think it's gotten quieter! Not sure, but I think it's helped. I would bet dollars to doughnuts, that with that little gap up there will add an area for some snow to lodge between the slider and the skid and add some lube! Hoping that the soon to return snirt doesn't get in there too bad.
As a footnote, the front wheel kit (from Fix, it has a long shaft and goes between the rails [the wheels are also inside the rails]) was likely to get into contact with suspension parts on the 05 Rage. So it was installed like the (Fix) "front" marginal wheel kit. Then the independent wheels were added in the intended place as the front wheel kit, but because they're one wheel on the outside of the rail, they fit fine.
Their kits will work fine (as described) with the Mono suspension. But on the 05 Rage, I needed to reverse both kits.
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
GREGSER1 said:Hey Guys,
I have read a lot of posts on this subject and i'm still not clear on what or where things have to be machined down to install the doo or poo wheels.
Could someone try to explain to me.
The reason i am asking because it is ether i'm going to put on the doo,poo wheels, or i'm going to buy the FIX wheel kits for the inside of the rails. Which is cheaper/better in the long run so to speak?
Thanks
it's the holder's that the wheels go on, the doo 135mm are larger and wider than the stock ones, so when you change to the doo wheels the bolt just barely goes in, also you got to check to make sure it not rubbing against the side of the track
ROCKERDAN
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My INNER wheels on my MONO skid just dont last very long.....outer SPOKED wheels got 5000 miles on them now,look perfect...installed INNER spoked,only got 2700 last season or so...then new spoked this season chunked apart at 50 miles!...
I just installed 2 INNER 135mm DOO wheels,and IMO the clincher to these larger diam wheels is the DOO 2 BOLT bracket that holds wheels on....with the 2 bolts bracket,the larger wheels wont bend the rail.
there is some slight modifiying of bracket to get it to seat perfect,but very easy to do.....Im hoping these DOO wheels last now!.....
must be the INNER wheels take alot more wear due to studs.
Dan
I just installed 2 INNER 135mm DOO wheels,and IMO the clincher to these larger diam wheels is the DOO 2 BOLT bracket that holds wheels on....with the 2 bolts bracket,the larger wheels wont bend the rail.
there is some slight modifiying of bracket to get it to seat perfect,but very easy to do.....Im hoping these DOO wheels last now!.....
must be the INNER wheels take alot more wear due to studs.
Dan
SharkAttak
TY 4 Stroke God
my doo wheels (135mm) 503190802 w/6205 bearing have been fine inside and outside wheels doo makes a great wheel holds up well
ROCKERDAN
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